tiling around a bathroom window with no sill

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Old 02-02-17, 11:55 AM
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tiling around a bathroom window with no sill

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any suggestions for how to tile around this type of inside window?

as you can see there is only about 1/2 -3/4" from window to wall.

the walls were covered originally with a 1/4" type of rigid plastic and plastic pieces were used around the inside of the window to seal.

not sure what the best way to make sure i get a good waterproofing around the window and how to finish it? With tile or some type of pre-made plastic strips?

all videos online are showing how to tile on windows which have a fairly wide sill. Not the case here.

Also, i need to replace the inside sill. its about 30 wide by 1 1/4 thick and not sure how wide yet as i haven't ripped the window out yet. is this something i need to cut dimension on my own or do they make sills that are premade.

thanks for any input.
 
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Old 02-02-17, 12:05 PM
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A couple questions. Why does it need to be waterproof? Is it in a shower where it gets wet?

Secondly, your terminology is messed up. You say you have no sill. (You mean stool) then you say you need to replace the sill (correct word which refers to the sloped sill your window sits on.) Why do you say "you need to replace the inside sill". You do know that the sill is one continuous 7" wide board, right? Is it rotten?
 
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Old 02-02-17, 12:40 PM
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the sill is rotten, which i just ripped out. there is not sill to speak of. the 1 1/4 inch piece of wood under the window is actually the sill.

the window is in a shower/bath. trying not to make the same mistake the original installer made.

so now that i have it ripped out, i'm not exactly sure how to fix it. i'm sure that's laughable.

it looks like the sill was build into the original frame and then the window was put into the frame.

Is there a way i can just build a new sill and just toe screw it to the existing frame which is in pretty good shape?



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Old 02-02-17, 01:17 PM
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Looks like a replacement window which does fit inside the original window frame. What material is the outside siding of your house made of?
 
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Old 02-02-17, 01:20 PM
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the outside of the house is vinyl siding
 
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Old 02-02-17, 01:32 PM
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You need to measure the dado in the jamb and make your new sill the same thickness. This is usually done on a thickness planer. Cedar is a good wood to use for this. Get a nice clear 2x10, cut 12.5 degree bevels on each side (table saw) so that it is shaped like a parallelogram. Rip it to the correct width (usually around 7")

Remove the storm window and sill nose. The length of the sill is determined on the outside by the outer edges of your trim. Cut it that length. Then determine how much you need to notch out so that it fits between the jambs.

Best way is to put a square in the dado... measure the distance from the inside edge of the jamb to the outside of the blind stop. (Usually around 4 7/8") then measure the distance from the notch to the outer edge of the trim. Lets say its 4". So you would cut a notch 4 x 4 7/8 out of one side. Measure the other side the same way. Once it fits, slide it in, goop it up with construction adhesive so that air doesnt come around the dado. Then cut a couple angled 2x wedges and drive them under the sill to push it up tight to the top of the dado. You can then use long screws to fasten it down through the shims and into the RO. You can toenail the jambs if you want.

Then insulate under the sill and around the old jamb perimeter with window and door foam.

When you install your cement board, you will want to trim the window edge with cement board and fiber tape the perimeter (the entire corner) around the window. Then after the cement board is up, paint it all with 2 coats of redguard.
 
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Old 02-02-17, 01:52 PM
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Old 02-02-17, 01:53 PM
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I usually install a waterproof membrane behind the backer board and seal it to the window with a high quality caulking like OSI quad. Then install the backerboard and again, seal it to the window with OSI quad. When you get to tiling, make sure the horizontal cap is set with a slight pitch back to the shower area. Use color matching caulk that simulates your grout color to seal the tile to the window. Then, make sre you use a high quality grout sealer as a final step. Then be diligent about watching the caulking along the window line. There 4 layers of defense.
 
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Old 02-02-17, 02:55 PM
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thanks for taking the time to write this all out. i'm going to take care of the sill and then get back to you on understanding your description of adding the cement board around window edge. i think i have it in my head correctly, but might need to get back to you. thank you. Owen
 
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Old 02-02-17, 03:07 PM
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i'll take a look at this the next time i make a trip to HD.
thank you
 
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Old 02-03-17, 03:53 AM
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Thanks for your feedback.
 
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Old 02-03-17, 04:43 AM
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is it possible to just remove the sill nose without removing window? and slide the new sill in under the storm window?
 
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Old 02-03-17, 06:35 AM
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Doubtful. But if you can, more power to ya.
 
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Old 02-03-17, 06:43 AM
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i guess i'll find out. thanks for you guidance.
 
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Old 02-03-17, 09:25 AM
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so is there any trick to getting the sill cap off. it looks like it bends behind the siding downward and im guessing it's nailed in the wall.
 
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Old 02-03-17, 10:54 AM
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Are you saying the sill nose is clad with aluminum trim coil? Didnt know that. If its in good shape you could leave it... just glue your new sill to the sill nose. I just assumed it would be rotten too.

You can score aluminum with a utility knife, bend it back and forth, then break it. Or a multi-tool will cut it. But you generally cant remove and reuse the cladding. If you dont need to remove it, dont.
 
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Old 02-07-17, 09:52 AM
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tiling a window that has no stool.

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So now that the new sill is in with new window, i need to come back to the issue of how to finish tiling around the window. So the first photo looking down on the window shows the sill protruding out about 1". there is no stool. In the third picture there is just under 1/2" between the edge of the window frame and the 2x4 studs. when i put the durarock up, the inside edge of the window frame will be less that 1/8" out beyond the durarock.

I'd rather have a solid piece of marble or similar on the bottom, but not sure if you can even cut something than thin?

the spacing on everything is what was there when i ripped the existing tub and wall out.

thanks for any input.
 
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