Removing 4" granite backsplash?
#1
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: USA
Posts: 178
Received 0 Votes
on
0 Posts
Removing 4" granite backsplash?
I am going to be installing a terracota tile back splash in my kitchen but currently, a 4" granite backsplash sits on top of the granite counter top.
I am in the process of removing it but wanted some advice. The backing of the granite does not seem to be adhered to the drywall. But the bottom side of the backsplash is definitely adhered to the top of the granite counter top.
What is the best way to remove the backsplash without damaging the counter top?
I have a 2" putty knife that I am tapping through the space between the granite counter top and granite backsplash but it require A LOT of force from the mallet an numerous taps to get through one little section. I am afraid I am going to break the granite underneath.
I can care less about the granite back splash as it will not be used.
Can I use a heat gun to heat up the adhesive and then try remove the backsplash?
I am in the process of removing it but wanted some advice. The backing of the granite does not seem to be adhered to the drywall. But the bottom side of the backsplash is definitely adhered to the top of the granite counter top.
What is the best way to remove the backsplash without damaging the counter top?
I have a 2" putty knife that I am tapping through the space between the granite counter top and granite backsplash but it require A LOT of force from the mallet an numerous taps to get through one little section. I am afraid I am going to break the granite underneath.
I can care less about the granite back splash as it will not be used.
Can I use a heat gun to heat up the adhesive and then try remove the backsplash?
#2
I would doubt it's adhesive. They normally use silicone to attach the backsplash to the countertop.
The way I've seen removal done is to slide several 3"-4" putty knives between the backsplash and the sheetrock at every stud location. Then drive wooden wedges between the backsplash and the knife. Keep going from wedge to wedge to gently get the backsplash to tip forward... away from the wall.
You don't want to use any metal tools between the backsplash and the countertop or you'll risk scratching the countertop.
The way I've seen removal done is to slide several 3"-4" putty knives between the backsplash and the sheetrock at every stud location. Then drive wooden wedges between the backsplash and the knife. Keep going from wedge to wedge to gently get the backsplash to tip forward... away from the wall.
You don't want to use any metal tools between the backsplash and the countertop or you'll risk scratching the countertop.
#3
Normally the splash is only adhered with a few dabs of silicone to the wall.
Use a sharp utility knife to cut the caulk at the bottom of splash, it might takes several slices and several new blades but take your time. The splash will lift right up after cutting.
Clean the old silicone off with denatured alcohol using cloth rags, a window or plastic scraper will also help in cleaning. You don't have to be concerned with scratching the granite, but be careful.
Use a sharp utility knife to cut the caulk at the bottom of splash, it might takes several slices and several new blades but take your time. The splash will lift right up after cutting.
Clean the old silicone off with denatured alcohol using cloth rags, a window or plastic scraper will also help in cleaning. You don't have to be concerned with scratching the granite, but be careful.
#4
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: USA
Posts: 178
Received 0 Votes
on
0 Posts
That's the thing, there is 0 visible silicone and no silicone between the drywall and the splash. I have about an 1/8 gap between the splash and drywall and I can move a spackle blade freely behind the splash. It's all sandwiched between the counter top and the backsplash. It seems like the silicone is running along the entire backsplash.
#6
Treat the bottom bead of silicone like metal fatigue. It will break after bending, especially after cutting with a sharp blade.
The granite will also break easily with a hammer and you can take it out in buckets. That's what I do on full height splashes. Try to make your strikes over a stud.
The granite will also break easily with a hammer and you can take it out in buckets. That's what I do on full height splashes. Try to make your strikes over a stud.
#7
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: USA
Posts: 178
Received 0 Votes
on
0 Posts
So I marked all the studs and started rocking the splash back and forth... 1.5 hours later I was still no where. It was so glued down that it started shifting the actual counter top.
My wife was there and told me to stop and she did a google search and flisn to try acetone.
I went to my local supply store and picked up acetone. Poured it on, used the putty knife to get it into the seam and let it sit 10 min.
In complete shock I started to pry the splash and it came off extremely easily!
Started putting up the new tile today and I'm about half way done.
Thanks for everyone's help!
My wife was there and told me to stop and she did a google search and flisn to try acetone.
I went to my local supply store and picked up acetone. Poured it on, used the putty knife to get it into the seam and let it sit 10 min.
In complete shock I started to pry the splash and it came off extremely easily!
Started putting up the new tile today and I'm about half way done.
Thanks for everyone's help!