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Greenboard or Hardibacker/Durock/etc for Tub surround wall panels

Greenboard or Hardibacker/Durock/etc for Tub surround wall panels


  #41  
Old 04-21-17, 12:37 PM
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No, its not in reverse...I would notice that.

I have screws and not nails, to me they mean the same thing, but I used screws to keep that clear.

I can pre-drill just fine, its when I put the drywall screws in that things get weird. Still haven't had time to try.

Can we talk toilets installation?
 
  #42  
Old 04-21-17, 12:49 PM
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Whenever I have a screw that doesn't go in all the way, I'll back it mostly out and then try again. Often that is all it needs.

Can we talk toilets installation?
Sure but all I know is the basics ..... but there are plumbers here too
 
  #43  
Old 04-21-17, 03:30 PM
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I've been focused on the drywall that I forgot that I had other worries...its a mess.

I started another thread in the Plumbing sections, I wonder if I should have multiple threads to address numerous things http://www.doityourself.com/forum/to...ml#post2618458

I tried a couple of things I think its the lumber...one wall (100% success on 1 stud), got it all in. The back wall is still a no-go and plumbing wall.

On my favorite wall , I tried using 1 5/8" screws which has a square bit and that worked (2/2), then I thought hmmm... let me get a new P2 bit, that seemed to help (2/2). I forget but I had to reverse out and drill back a couple of times on one of P2 attempts. I was excited and then tried the back wall (drywall set, just needs screws, only 2 that won't go in) and back to failure again

I plan to wrap up work and focus 100% on this starting tonight, hopefully I can make progress.
 

Last edited by diyIn2017; 04-21-17 at 03:49 PM. Reason: Add link to toilet thread
  #44  
Old 04-22-17, 08:53 AM
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I tried the back wall again and same thing, after lots of reverse & re-drill I got 3 to be flush with drywall, still not sinking. The face of the drywall ends up getting ripped....which is what I'm supposed to be avoiding right?

I leaned in and apply force but its a no go. I'm leaning towards hanging the rest and leaving as is. Depending on how long it takes, I could go out a rent a screw gun and come back and re-try. I'm open to any other ideas at this point.
 
  #45  
Old 04-22-17, 09:56 AM
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I suppose you could scab new 2xs to the existing and then screw the drywall to them.
 
  #46  
Old 04-22-17, 11:37 AM
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Just got back and everyone says it should work with the drill that I have. I took the drill with me. So frustrating.

I suppose you could scab new 2xs to the existing and then screw the drywall to them.
That's missing a number? Is that 2x4s? Add to side of existing studs? Right now I'm going set all drywall pieces in place, make all cuts, try to screw as many as I can to move forward, already 1/2 day behind schedule.

I found a place to rent a drywall screw gun, that will be another option to try but the guy there thinks what I have should work, so I came back.

Thanks!
 
  #47  
Old 04-22-17, 12:41 PM
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Unless there is something wrong with your drill it should work.

2xs includes 2x2, 2x3, 2x4, etc. depending on the thickness of the wall ... and it doesn't have to go as deep as the wall studs because it's not structural.
 
  #48  
Old 04-22-17, 01:57 PM
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Sometimes a stud is out of alignment relative to the one next to it and as you try to screw off the drywall, it flexes back into position and tears the heat through the paper. Try pre-drilling holes with an 1/8" drill bit or and see if that helps you drive the screws.
 
  #49  
Old 04-23-17, 09:55 AM
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Slow progress. I tried pre-drilling with 1/8 and that seems to help, I rented an impact driver since one brother is helping(same issue with him and his strength so it has to be the lumber) and hopefully we can finish the wall today and focus on the floor.

I placed the wall surrounds on the back wall (since its up) to see how it looks and it is very short! Anyone over 5'8(me ) is going to get water all over the wall...I know this is standard but this concerns me. Why do they make it so short? I will definitely have to prime that part of the wall.

marksr, should I get a paint that specifically states its moisture & mildew resistant? HD didn't have any that had moisture -resistant, also they has acrylic and not latex. I was told that as long as its a eggshell/satin enamel, it already is. I see the Zinnsser Primer is both, but would like a Primer + Paint combo if possible.
 

Last edited by diyIn2017; 04-23-17 at 10:11 AM.
  #50  
Old 04-23-17, 10:35 AM
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IMO a primer/paint combo is nothing but a marketing ploy. Most repaints do not require a primer and raw substrates benefit from a better dedicated primer.

Basically latex and acrylic paints are the same thing. Most any eggshell, satin or semi-gloss will be ok [bare minimum] but a bath paint [which has extra mildewcide along with being formulated for the harsher environment of a bath w/shower] would be better. For the most part a latex enamel along with sealing the top of the surround so water can't migrate behind it is enough protection. The water splashing isn't the same as the direct hit some of the surround sustains.
 
  #51  
Old 04-23-17, 04:37 PM
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So I need to return the HD brand (Behr) so there was no specific Bath paint. I'll shop around but I may get a Primer that has the same features to coat the whole wall before putting up the surround....if I have time... its Sunday evening, so not very much.
 
  #52  
Old 04-23-17, 04:41 PM
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So I used the same measurements the 2 opposite walls and but the drywall on one (plumbing wall) is fitting shorter. I barely have room to drill screws (i.e space btw butt joints is wide)..do I just tape & mud as usual or do I have to do something extra?


Thanks!
 
  #53  
Old 04-24-17, 04:26 AM
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How wide is the gap where you came up short? Sometimes it's beneficial to prefill the gap with mud [let it dry] first. Other than that, gaps in the hanging don't matter all that much.
 
  #54  
Old 04-24-17, 07:08 AM
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1/4..on the side that joins the rest of the wall, btw 1/4-1/2 on top.

I'm not sure why its off by so much, I recalculated and measured (at least for height) and adjusted for it being too big initially for the LHS. So RHS is taller & wider somehow?


Then I made a major error...cut out for shower head was too far to the right initially , and will not be covered. Do I just mud that? Try to cut out a piece of drywall to fit and screw it in...oh no there's no stud behind it?

Thanks! Later today I will start mudding, will do prefill first.
 
  #55  
Old 04-24-17, 07:22 AM
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Your shower panel will cover the missed calculation on the cut out hole in the drywall. Just make sure your cut out measurement in your final wall panel is accurate.
 
  #56  
Old 04-24-17, 09:15 AM
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Homes are never built perfectly square/level all the way thru plus the tub could have been installed slightly off. If you apply some mud to the cut edge of the drywall at the 1/2" gap [let it dry] it will make taping easier. I wouldn't worry about the 1/4" gap.
 
  #57  
Old 04-24-17, 01:04 PM
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hi czizzi,

The panel won't cover the shower head, but I am guessing I just have to mud it? Its less than a 1inch circle...
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Should I make the cutout for the tub faucet..bigger? BTW the water isn't as hot as I would like it to be (if I turn on the tub & kitchen after work, kitchen in hot, tub is hot...), I've turned it all the way up according to specs, its a Kohler Forte.

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we were tired and didn't worry about cutout perfection lol!

Corner of the tub & drywall, just mud this?

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  #58  
Old 04-24-17, 02:39 PM
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Use tape and mud to fix the minor imperfections.

One thing that concerns me is that the tub does not have a flange on it, the flange prevents water from getting into the wall cavity. I'm probably going to recommend a high end sealant - let me know when you get to that stage. Does your surround panels go all the way to the floor?
 
  #59  
Old 04-27-17, 07:08 AM
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It does have a flange...at least that is what I thought it was. That 1" white part above the tub? Not sure why the pictures posted sideways....

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  #60  
Old 04-27-17, 05:22 PM
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OK so it was a picture orientation thing, whew!
 
  #61  
Old 04-28-17, 08:46 AM
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LOL! You made me worry for a moment

BTW, What's the high-end sealant you would recommend? I bought the Loctite Tub and tile 2 in 1 seal & bond clear sealant.


Okay, in prep for tomorrow...

1)I have to pre-fill the gaps on RHS walll & shower head B4 the real tap & mud event.
2) I didn't buy the regular paper tape, I got fibafuse drywall tape (was told its easier to work with) AND someone else recommended Fibatape Mold Resistant. Which one? Or go with paper?
3) Do I mud the side where the drywall connects with the side of the tub or is that just sealant?
4) what else....anything I need to do. I hope to prefill latest tomorrow morning, let dry then mud. If I watch videos and the time to dry is more than 4 hours, I will try tonight.
 
  #62  
Old 04-29-17, 10:07 AM
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No preference on which tape to use?

Also, rinsing out the mudding tools in the basement is okay? It won't clog the drain? Yes, i will put all excess in a bag and place in the trash first.


Getting a very late start today....still working at the moment.
 
  #63  
Old 04-29-17, 03:09 PM
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Paper tape is better than the mesh 'sticky' tape. If you use sticky tape it's best to lock it down with a coat of setting compound. One of our pros really likes Fiba-tape - I've not used it but wouldn't question his recommendation.

I wouldn't wash up your tools in the sink. Regular j/c is water soluble but it could clog things up until it dissolves, might be ok but I wouldn't risk it. Setting compound is apt to plug up the plumbing - best to wash your tools outside!

Whether or not to tape next to the tub depends on how well the drywall fits. If you have a nice even joint, caulking is usually sufficient but a rough or uneven fit usually needs to be flat taped first. [prefill any wide gaps]
 
  #64  
Old 04-29-17, 06:38 PM
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So this EasySand 45...is not setting in 55 mintutes as promised

Or maybe .......

so the mud goes from gray to white when its dry on the nails so I've been waiting for it to turn white in the pre-filled corners that had a wide gap and its STILL grayish 3 hours later. Its firm, I've knocked on it, tried to chip it...feels solid, so can I proceed with taping the joints or do I have to wait?

Thanks!
 
  #65  
Old 04-30-17, 03:57 AM
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As long as it's set, you should be good to go. It dries chemically so you can apply more coats quickly. It doesn't have to be pure white to recoat - just dry. It should be white before you prime/paint though as the curing process can 'burn' the paint. How the mud is mixed has a slight effect on drying time but after 1 hour there shouldn't be any issue with applying the next coat of mud.
 
  #66  
Old 04-30-17, 10:04 AM
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Thanks marksr.....so I wasted time waiting...oh well.

I started the joints that were not prefilled and I'm not sure I like the mesh tape....shows thru after the 1st coat but videos says its okay. I don't know, it felt like I was unable to get a smooth coat on it, it looks all rough....but it could be because the butt joint(greenboard meets existing drywall) is uneven(existing wall is slightly thicker)

How do I control dust? I turned off the heat since it was an issue last weekend but its very cold Thermostat reads 61 which is COLD for me so I turned it on for 1 hour and its like someone poured dust down my throat. I read about wet sanding, will that help? I don't even know if i should be sanding...


How the mud is mixed has a slight effect on drying time but after 1 hour there shouldn't be any issue with applying the next coat of mud.
How should I mix it?
 
  #67  
Old 04-30-17, 10:39 AM
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Mix the EasySand per the instructions. All I meant was little variances in the mixing will alter the drying time a little; extra wet often results in a slower wet time, a little dry sets quicker, etc. Basically minutes - not hours.

It's hard to control the sanding dust! They sell [maybe rent] a vacuum powered drywall sander ... but I've never used one. The main thing with regular sanding is to close off areas where you don't want the dust to travel. Often on repairs I'll use the setting compound but switch to regular j/c for the final coat so I can smooth it out with a wet sponge. When applied correctly only the final coat of mud needs sanding. You can take your drywall knife and knock down any ridges or debris before applying the next coat.
 
  #68  
Old 04-30-17, 11:01 AM
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That's the thing, I barely did any sanding. Just a little and now I can't breathe...its more like my throat feels constricted. I had on a mask, so I was fine. I have plastic on the door, plastic covering the vent...but I turned on the heat for a bit and here I am.

That prefilled joint(wide gap) is looking whitish now, so it means after I'm done with mudding I may have to wait 24 hours for it to be completely white? The other areas are white.

How many time should I coat the nails?

Each joint?
 

Last edited by diyIn2017; 04-30-17 at 11:20 AM.
  #69  
Old 04-30-17, 11:21 AM
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I've having a issue with the edge of the existing wall ...bleeding thru, its showing
a brown line from top to bottom. It was a rough edge and I guess I should have sanded it down? cut it out? I'll post a pic when I have a chance, running out to buy paper tape.
 
  #70  
Old 05-01-17, 04:04 AM
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It generally takes 3 coats of mud; including the bed coat on the tape and over the nails. If time permits I'd rather apply an extra coat of mud than do extra sanding.

It doesn't matter if the paint at the adjoining wall bleeds thru the mud as long as the mud is smooth. If you are talking about jagged drywall with tiny pieces sticking up thru the mud - that should have been cleaned up prior to mudding. You'd need to either cut or sand off the offending excess.
 
  #71  
Old 05-06-17, 09:10 AM
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Another week, no time, so no progress.

How can I properly quarantine the bathroom to prevent dust?

How can I fix the current dust problem? To recap, I've kept my furnace off all week because the minute I turn it on, I can feel the drywall dust, my throat gets constricted etc. I've been leaving my oven on(not open, just turned on) when I get back from work and I have a small space heater that I turn on for a few minutes to heat the room and turn off before I sleep. Its not been an ideal situation, but I managed.

I have to work tomorrow so I'll use today as errand day....but I'll try to see if I can do 1 coat of mud on the remaining walls...
 
  #72  
Old 05-06-17, 10:16 AM
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Seal/tape off the HVAC vent in the bath rm and stuff a rag or old towel under the door. That should keep the dust contained to that room. You'll probably have to wipe up some outside the room to pick up what either got by the rag or tracked by you.
 
  #73  
Old 05-18-18, 02:05 AM
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Hey marksr & czizzi,

I dropped the project (trying get house ready for a refinance and possibly sell since I got travel job), it all fell apart and I've been gone for most of the year until Feb. My plan was to pay someone to remodel it and have been suffering without a bath(use gym) for a while now.

My brother is in town on vacation so I've decided to resume this since I have a few graduations events coming ergo family flying in.

I'm hoping you can help me on this again, sorry I dropped off, to be honest I've been too embarrassed to come back and ask for help but I can't let the opportunity of having my brother here go to waste. He's currently working on tearing down the deck and this will be next.
 
  #74  
Old 05-18-18, 02:19 AM
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So I'm a worry wart/overthinker by nature, so I will admit that I need home improvement concepts explained to me like I'm 5 sometimes. If I don't admit that I'll be too embarrassed to ask for clarifications if I don't understand it, more importantly I have to since my brother is mostly providing muscle power ergo I have to be able to explain it clearly and direct to him as well.

Now onto the walls, here is the current state. I must admit it looks better that I remember...
 
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  #75  
Old 05-18-18, 02:28 AM
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More Pictures :

Main issue is that nails on one side of the wall (outside the tub) didn't countersink at all and I couldn't reverse them..I think we stripped it. Also as I mentioned in my last posts 05/17, there ended up being a wide gap between the new and the existing drywall. As per your advice (marksr), I filled the gap with mud. On the left side, I did apply tape(pic 2) and its piercing through but I didn't apply to the right(pic 1). In Pic 1, you can see the nail sticking out and I think there are 4 more of those at the bottom. There is another one in the corner of the tub(pic 3)

1) How do I proceed with this?
2) more importantly how can I control the dust...it about killed me. I have a feeling I have to sand down and apply a new coat?
3) Does the current coat on the rest of the drywall(previous posts) look ok?
 
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  #76  
Old 05-18-18, 04:45 AM
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First off - it's better to use cement board under the tub surround!

When a screw won't go in far enough you should remove it and install another screw next to it then cover both with mud. To eliminate some of the sanding you can scrape off some of the high spots and then apply another coat of mud. Sanding joint compound is messy! wearing a dust mask might be helpful.
 
  #77  
Old 05-18-18, 12:35 PM
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Originally Posted by marksr View Post
First off - it's better to use cement board under the tub surround!

When a screw won't go in far enough you should remove it and install another screw next to it then cover both with mud. To eliminate some of the sanding you can scrape off some of the high spots and then apply another coat of mud. Sanding joint compound is messy! wearing a dust mask might be helpful.
Hi markstr,

1) This is a thread I started 1 year ago and the unanimous feedback from you and other posters was that drywall is sufficient for since the bath tub surround is plastic. Its too late to change it now , this is still "temporary" as I don't really like that the tub surround doesn't go up to the wall.

2) So the history on the nails was that none were going in. I tried so many things and with the guidance of this thread, we found a few solutions that works (pre-drilling, using square-head nails instead of Phillips-head nails, at one point someone suggested adding new studs etc), but for this wall, we had stripped the nail head or something as the nails wouldn't reverse out. Should I cut them off and re-drill?
 

Last edited by diyIn2017; 05-18-18 at 01:10 PM.
  #78  
Old 05-18-18, 01:29 PM
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I had forgotten you were using a plastic surround.

I'd either hammer the screw in further or pry it out although since it's getting covered with plastic it might not be necessary. Screws hold better if they have mud over them, other than that it should be good enough for a coat of primer and then proceed with installing your surround.
 
  #79  
Old 05-18-18, 02:53 PM
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Originally Posted by marksr View Post
I had forgotten you were using a plastic surround.

I'd either hammer the screw in further or pry it out although since it's getting covered with plastic it might not be necessary. Screws hold better if they have mud over them, other than that it should be good enough for a coat of primer and then proceed with installing your surround.
Ok, I'll try that. So the corners, I have to mud that too right? I have pics in previous posts.

I have to go back and re-read the entire thread again but I think your suggestion is to use a good quality bathroom paint ergo paint the entire wall, then sand it down and then install the plastic surround?
 
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Old 05-18-18, 03:06 PM
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Thread is too long for me to go back and read it all. Taping the corners makes the room tighter but there is no need to finish it all to a paint ready level since it will be hid by the surround. It needs to at least be primed adding a coat of bath paint is better. Sanding is done prior to priming, be sure to wipe off the sanding dust before applying the primer.
 
 

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