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Converting a wall cabinet into a a trash receptacle

Converting a wall cabinet into a a trash receptacle

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  #1  
Old 03-30-20, 03:15 PM
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Converting a wall cabinet into a a trash receptacle

Hello, all! I'm new to the forums, but I've perused the amazing advice this community has shared and have found it really helpful. I've got a project that probably isn't too complicated, but I could really use some assistance with design and hardware to make it work.
I've got a 30x30x12" wall cabinet that I want to turn into a trash receptacle. It's narrow, I know, but the size is the way it is to maximize space. The cabinet opening doesn't have the upright bar between the doors, so I was thinking that I could have the doors fastened together or mounted to a thin sheet of wood and function as one door. I want hinges on the bottom so that you can pull the door(s) forward and the cans will swing down with the doors. So what I picture is some sort of rail system on the sides, but I'm having trouble finding the proper slides/rails to make it work. I've attached a few pictures to help visualize what I'm referring to. Ideally not just a chain that could rip right out with too strong of a yank. What slide/rail system and what hinges should I use??
I am also trying to find trash and recycling cans or find a way to create my own to fit the space. If I create my own, what would I use for the form itself, and what can I use to make it water-tight?
The front opening is 26" tall, 26" wide, and 10.5" deep. So split the width in half for two cans sitting side by side.
I really appreciate any and all advice and assistance I can get on this!

https://i.imgur.com/QiO2zMA.jpg]
 
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  #2  
Old 03-30-20, 07:06 PM
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Typically, from the ones I have seen you would not do it like that. You would remove the hinges from the doors and fasten one or both doors to two individual- or to one- large drawer box that would be on drawer glides. The trash receptacles would sit inside the drawer box. You would then pull the door and it would make the entire drawer pull out along with the door.
 
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Old 03-31-20, 02:43 AM
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Anything is possible, combining the doors, adding some hinges and using these types of supports instead of a chain.

https://www.pinterest.com/pin/478648266633659705/

Hardest part is finding the correct canister(s) to fit inside! Resolve that and your on your way!
 
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  #4  
Old 03-31-20, 06:57 AM
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Just Google "sliding stay"

The upper stay/hinge will probably have to be something that is fairly easy to disconnect, in case something falls in behind the door/bin.
It would be hard to remove unless the the door/bin can tilt further forward.

The cabinet will have to be attached to a wall at the back top so it does not tip forward.

Finding bin/bins is going to be the hard part.

Unless you need two bins I would go with a single bin.
One that is the correct size to fit a green garbage bag.
I measured a bag that I have and it's circumference is 58 inches so you could make a bin 9 X 20.
I have a pull out drawer that does the same thing. It is just more rectangular.
Have tries a number of methods to hold the bag but they all have failed for one reason or another so we just tape the top of the bag to the bin top with masking tape.
 
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Old 03-31-20, 08:50 AM
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Thank you to everyone for your help so far!
XSleeper, I just have the side hinges on for now to keep it all together. We bought these cabinets in the ready-to-assemble style, so I can easily pop it apart again if need be. I also took that picture with the doors on so you could see that the doors have an overlay, so hinges might be a little trickier.
 
  #6  
Old 03-31-20, 09:18 AM
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Google "tilt out trash can cabinet image" for lots of ideas.

Also consider using drawer slides near the top supporting a piece of plywood with cutouts for the trash cans. Attach the doors with angle brackets.

Or drawer slides at the bottom with a tray to hold the cans.

A combination of both will give you places to attach the doors at top and bottom.

Or leave the doors hinged at the sides. Not as convenient since you have to open the doors and then slide out the cans.
 
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Old 03-31-20, 03:05 PM
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The reason why I chose to have them lean out instead of sliding out is that the cabinet will have to be mounted by the side stead of the back, so I need as little weight as possible shifting it out to potentially rip it from the wall.
 
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Old 03-31-20, 04:47 PM
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Someone suggested that I try these, and to mount them near the back of the tilting base. Not sure how that would work.
Soft Down Lid Stay
 
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Old 04-01-20, 07:29 AM
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the cabinet will have to be mounted by the side stead of the back
Why? A single long screw through the back into a stud should be enough to offset tipping. If you are not going to trim the baseboard and place the cabinet flush to the wall you should add a wall cleat behind, too.

In any case your plan to hinge at the bottom would work. You could hinge each door separately or join them together. If the bottom overhang is the same as the side overhang, you could use the same hinges. (You will need a Forstner bit to drill the appropriate holes.)

Build a shelf unit to attach near the bottom of the door to hold the cans. Build it with almost full height sides. (Allow for tipping clearance at the top.) Cut a curved slot in the side piece and install a large diameter screw through it into the side frame of the cabinet to control the amount of tipping. Install the door(s) with the hinges at the bottom. Open the door flat to the floor. Attach the shelf unit. Tip the door up and install the screw through the slot. The weight of the shelf/cans should be enough to hold the door(s) closed but if not you can install a magnetic catch at the top.
 
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Old 04-01-20, 08:31 AM
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Why? A single long screw through the back into a stud should be enough to offset tipping. If you are not going to trim the baseboard and place the cabinet flush to the wall you should add a wall cleat behind, too.
Well, we have exactly 14" on the side of the fridge where we have our current ugly trash and recycling cans sitting.
The bottom cabinets don't come in a narrow size like that, so I decided I'd add a 4" box to make it the same height as the bottoms in the rest of the kitchen, and put a counter top on it. That way we get a little more space in the kitchen and we can hide the cans in that cabinet. We are remodeling the entire kitchen and are putting a pantry on the other side of the fridge, along with uppers above it.
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Last edited by Shadeladie; 04-01-20 at 05:57 PM.
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Old 04-01-20, 08:56 AM
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A 2x4 cleat on the floor would be advisable, then set your toekick over the 2x4 and fasten your 4" toekick box to the cleat on the floor. That's how islands are fastened, and they often have drawers.

You can add an 1/8" panel on one side of the cabinet to hide the seam of your toekick.
 
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Old 04-01-20, 09:20 AM
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Why? A single long screw through the back into a stud should be enough to offset tipping. If you are not going to trim the baseboard and place the cabinet flush to the wall you should add a wall cleat behind, too.
I'm not sure why my last reply got moderated, but I'll try again. We have limited space on the side of the fridge. About 14" or so. The bottom cabinets don't come in a size that narrow, so I'm using an upper and adding a 4" box to make it the same height. I'll try adding the picture again with spoiler tags to keep from bogging down the chat load. I'm going to cut the baseboard away and have spacers and a filler strip to allow for the doors to swing past the door trim.
Side note, thanks again to everyone for assisting in this. I'm fairly new to woodworking and this will be my first cabinet install. Your assistance is greatly appreciated!
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Last edited by PJmax; 04-01-20 at 06:04 PM.
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Old 04-01-20, 10:27 AM
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Your posts are being moderated because of your use of the Spoiler. Not sure why. It's not necessary to use this for pics and doesn't make a thread less bogged down.
I approved your first post.
 
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Old 04-01-20, 11:27 AM
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I missed that you said you will be putting uppers above this. In that case you will cover the side of both cabinets with a 3/4" bulkhead that sits on the floor. The 2x4 cleat on bottom should still be used.
 
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Old 04-01-20, 12:55 PM
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Your posts are being moderated because of your use of the Spoiler. Not sure why. It's not necessary to use this for pics and doesn't make a thread less bogged down.
Apologies. I'm used to another forum that required spoiler tags on pictures and I just fell into old habits. Thanks for moderating.
 
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Old 04-01-20, 01:42 PM
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Now that I see where the cabinet is going here is another suggestion.

I have a small (custom built) cabinet next to my refrigerator in a space similar to yours. That one is 18 inches wide and has shelves and a swinging door at the front and a compartment for trays and cookie sheets, etc. at the back. They slide in from the side. This cabinet is on wheels and can be moved out for additional counter space in the work area, although we seldom do that now that it is a beverage area.

In another cabinet in the island there is a roll-out trash compartment. That cabinet is 15 inches wide and full counter depth. I think there are devices that can handle two trash containers in that depth but we have only one since there is piping to a bar sink in the counter above in the area.

You could use a 14 inch full depth cabinet with a two-can roll-out next to your refrigerator. It should be fastened to a floor cleat as XSleeper said. I suggest it be fastened to the wall also.

I did not see anything about upper cabinets in your posts but if you want one it can be supported on the wall. There is an upper cabinet above our beverage counter for cookbooks, etc. that does not rely on the rolling counter below for any support.
 
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Old 04-02-20, 07:58 AM
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Now that I see where the cabinet is going here is another suggestion.
I have already purchased the cabinets and don't plan to buy others. I appreciate the ideas, but that just wouldn't work for our setup. The cabinet would definitely be stationary and attached to the wall. Your previous advice was spot on, though! I'll be starting work on this next week, so we'll see how it goes.
Now I just need to find trash cans that are no bigger than 22" tall, 13" wide, and 10.5" deep. Or to make my own that fit the dimensions. I have no idea how I'd go about that, while keeping them watertight.
 
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Old 04-02-20, 08:27 AM
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As Marq1 said in an earlier post:
Hardest part is finding the correct canister(s) to fit inside!
.
If you find one that is too tall but meets the other dimensions you can cut the top to shorten it. If you need to finish the cut edge you can add split tubing there. If you need to build the can to fit, you could use wood, metal or plastic. The latter could be made waterproof like an aquarium, but in any case double bagging with plastic liners should work too unless you throw out a lot of liquid. Leave one bag as a "permanent" (but replaceable) liner and just throw out the inner liner with the trash. A wooden one could have caulked joints and Formica on the inner surface for easy cleaning.
 
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Old 04-02-20, 08:32 AM
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Brilliant advice! I hope to find one I can trim as needed, just to have a nice solid plastic container. If I can't find that, having a permanent bag is a great solution! Does anyone have experience with Flex Seal or products like that? I was thinking caulk at the corners and flex seal painted all over might help make a good seal.
 
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