Laminating Kitchen Countertop

What are other ways to adhere laminate to MDF countertop besides the instant-bond contact cement? My counter is wall-to-wall, so it will be extremely difficult to do the dowel rod method without making a vital mistake. It would be extremely helpful if there was an adhesive option that allowed me to make adjustments once the laminate is laid down. I noticed Wilsonart has a TFL (thermally fused laminate). I'm not sure if that would be a good solution (I'm not sure because their website doesn't seem to explain what it actually is). Note that my goal is to have one piece of laminate without seams (which is why I have to do it myself).

Thank you

 

Contact cement is the only method I've ever seen used. I have tried the thermal applied (hot melt glue) end strips with 50/50 success and often have to come back and use contact cement.

 

Perhaps more info on exact size etc. of the job would help.
I do not know what the dowel rod method is.

I always apply the contact cement.
Then place paper over the MDF.
Set and position the laminate and then slowly pull out the paper.

If it looks like a difficult job then I do it a couple times without any glue just to make sure it will go smoothly.

 

The paper method you mentioned should work much better now that I think about it. The dowel rod method is similar to using the paper except you lay a bunch of dowel rods down and then pull them out one by one to roll the laminate on.

Below are the dimensions and measurements. First note the installer who took these measurements was not willing to do an on-site build meaning I would have to settle for the field seam as depicted in the diagram (and its because of the walls). Eliminating the field seam is why I didn't call him back. So the seam is no longer part of the design. The MDF itself can have all the seams it wants. Also ignore the 3+5/8 backsplash - I'm not using that either or I would have to remove tiles, and I'm trying to avoid that. If it goes smoothly enough, I will replicate my existing one with new MDF. Anyway, as seen, the surrounding walls on both sides will make laying the laminate difficult. Again, I think using paper will work much better that dowels.

 

I am not a pro at this but where are you going to get a piece of laminate big enough to cover that entire area without a seam.
Looks like it will have to be 127 3/4 " X 54 1/2 "
Even if you can get it there will be a lot of waste.
Cutting the inside counter edge to get it close to the finished dimension may be a problem.
Walls are never 100% straight so are going to install 1/4 round on the wall edges.
Also you say roll on laminate. I have never used the lighter weight material that can be rolled out as a counter top. Always use heavier flat sheets. I am not sure that lighter stuff will stand up to the abuse a counter top gets.

The above arej ust a few thoughts as the job is beyond me.

 

Wilsonart has 12x5 foot pieces you can get through a big box like Lowes. The left-over will cover another small counter on the opposite side of the kitchen.

Coping the MDF to the wall and then fitting the laminate on is going to be tough, but its my only option. I have someone who will help me get it. In terms of contracting out, nobody in this area will do a seamless build.

Are you asking me if I am doing a 1/4 round or are you telling me I need to?

"Rolling" laminate on - I just meant that it goes down when you pull a dowel out.

Thank you for the advice. Let me know what else you think.

 

I did a laminate ceiling in our steam shower. It was about 3' x 8' with some other cutouts. I was able with templates and trial fitting to get it cut to shape. I allowed myself 1/4" all around the perimeter because of the difficulty accurately positioning laminate overhead and the instant grab of contact cement. I attached paint stick guides on my longest straight walls as a guide. Slid one edge up into position then carefully rolled it on from there. When not working horizontally you don't need the dowels or spacers as often shown when doing a counter. Vertical surfaces are actually easier since the laminate doesn't want to fall down and stick.

 

I do not know if you will need 1/4 round.
It depends on how close you can get it to match the walls.

If possible make your self a large template as Pilot Dane suggested and then you can mess with that till it fits perfectly.

I would leave about an inch around the MDF outside so you can trim this off later using a router etc.