Hello,

Can I hang wall bridge (above fridge type) cabinets where one end does NOT go against a wall? Will there be enough support? I know they are typically between other cabinets thus supported on both sides.

They are plywood. They weight 23LB. Dimensions 30x12x12. And I'm doing 2 side-by-side.

I've seen it done before, so its doable.

Anyway, would I need to screw into the ceiling for additional support? Would that suffice?

 

If the back is against a wall you don't need anything on the side.

 

As I did, I would also screw thought the ceiling.

 

Good thanks. I'm not too knowledgeable of ceilings, but I'm guessing the joists are right on the other side of the drywall slat like studs are, and so I could use a stud finder the same way you'd use it on the wall.

The other question is the screws. I'm going to use #10x3'' but what about the screw head? The only 10x3 I have now are countersink style, but I think that would significantly lower the strength of the hold. What is the best kind of screw? I like the GRK with the flat shaped head, but I can't seem to find those at 3 in... even on the internet. And is also seems most of them are #8. I'm going to check Lowes, but good luck with them.

So
1) can I use 2.5 inch GRK? I figure 3/4'' plaster, 1/2'' cabinet back, so a 2.25'' screw would leave 1 whole inch worth of screw into the wood. That should suffice, right? The directions that came with the cabinets say to use #10x3''. What if I could only find #8x3 or #8x2.5?

2) nevermind GRK but just use a #10x3 with a button head?

 

They make cabinet screws with a washer head. But yes, you can use the GRK 2.5" if its a construction screw. Using a longer screw you could potentially piece an electrical wire or pipe. I will often use a finishing washer behind the screw head to increase the surface area of the screw head.

The only time a cabinet needs to be screwed to the ceiling is when it's an island, (no wall) and even then you usually need to have backing installed in a specific spot for it to help. Besides, you only have a 50% chance that your joists are running the right way to even hit one.

 

Thanks. With 3in screws, I would cut small inspection holes in each stud bay to physically look for wires. You could always just stick the piece of drywall back in. I think this is an excellent idea for easily putting the drywall piece back in, and I've done it before.

But if its okay to use 2.5 inchers, then I don't have to worry about wires anyway now.

My joists run perpendicular to the face of the cabinets, so this is what I would need, right? Is that what you meant?

So just to be clear, I would only need the washer head if the screws are countersink style, right?

Thanks for the help.

 

If the joists are perpendicular you could screw up, yes.

 

I went to lowes and got the GRK 8x2.5 with the flat face.

 

So another question:

In the wall on the side of the cabinet, I only have a stud at the corner. The cabinet is 12'' deep, so the next stud is past the cabinets. This means I could only put screws in the back where the corner is (for the side). I can't screw near the front unless I add additional stud support. Do I need to?

 

No. But you do need to use a screw that will expand behind the wall. There several type wall anchors you can use. I would suggest a toggle type.

 

As I mentioned earlier, you do not need to screw wall cabinets to anything on the sides.

 

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Unless they abut to another cabinet to make a tight seam and close any gaps between cabinets.

 

I should have said "any wall", but since that's what he's asking I think he would have understood that.

 

Just a thought I had - what are the chances of hitting a wire (or something else) while screwing into ceiling joists? I know with studs, the wires are 2.25'' from the mounting face of the stud (by code at least). But I don't know how this kind of thing works with ceiling joists. It doesn't hurt for me to check with you.

Thanks

 

That's why screws should only penetrate into 1" of stud... and why you shouldn't put screws where they are not necessary. Electrical can be as close as 1 1/4", by code. Cabinets only require screws into the back wall.

When you need to be sure, open the drywall and look. You can always patch it up again, the cabinet will be covering any hole/patch you make.

 

Well, inspection holes aren't that hard. My problem is dust in the kitchen, but that's why they make drop sheets and buckets/rags to clean up. I agree that taking a direct and physical look is way safer. So I'll take that advice. My borescope just might come in handy here.

Now I want to thank you XSleeper and others who answered. I think I got everything I need answered so far. I'll put some pictures up once project is done. I'm currently in the process of oil priming them in the garage, so the weather is the boss for now...