Manual ceramic tile cutter for Subway tiles?
#1
Member
Thread Starter
Manual ceramic tile cutter for Subway tiles?
I've done a few tile jobs using thinset on backerboard using a wet ceramic title cutter (rental). This time I'm planning a kitchen backsplash using adhesive and subway tiles, staggered pattern.
Can I get by using a manual tile cutter? I can rent one for $15/day, but for about $40 I can buy a cheap one. Can I get a recommendation for a manual cutter? 17" good enough? Found this one at Amazon. One wheel blade be enough to do a standard kitchen job?
Seeutek Manual Tile Cutter, 17"
https://www.amazon.com/Seeutek-Profe...1zcF9hdGY&th=1
Anything special about the adhesive? Would type 1 Mapei be fine?
Trowel size? 1/4"? Square or V?
Thanks for you help!
Can I get by using a manual tile cutter? I can rent one for $15/day, but for about $40 I can buy a cheap one. Can I get a recommendation for a manual cutter? 17" good enough? Found this one at Amazon. One wheel blade be enough to do a standard kitchen job?
Seeutek Manual Tile Cutter, 17"
https://www.amazon.com/Seeutek-Profe...1zcF9hdGY&th=1
Anything special about the adhesive? Would type 1 Mapei be fine?
Trowel size? 1/4"? Square or V?
Thanks for you help!
#2
I've always opted for a wet saw but that cutting tool should work ok.
Just keep in mind.... the minimum cutting width is 1.38" (35mm).
That means you can't anything off under that width.
Have never used Mapei before. Looks like it should work fine.
Trowel type and size based on product and covered in link below.
Mapei document library - type 1 - pdf
Just keep in mind.... the minimum cutting width is 1.38" (35mm).
That means you can't anything off under that width.
Have never used Mapei before. Looks like it should work fine.
Trowel type and size based on product and covered in link below.
Mapei document library - type 1 - pdf
petethebuilder
voted this post useful.
#3
Member
I have used Mapei type 1 on two bathroom floors, bathroom walls and one shower wall. I prefer it over thinset.
petethebuilder
voted this post useful.
#4
Member
Thread Starter
PjMax/cwbuff,
Thanks for the very useful advice, tips and resources.
Few more Qs...
1. Still the standard to leave a 1/4" between countertop and first row of tiles which will later be filled with chalking?
2. This project is over plaster and in some areas, dry wall. Paint was fully cured over a year ago, but the kitchen's been in use. How picky do I need to be about the cleaning? Is TSP still the go to or or there a modern alternative, perhaps one that's effective but less toxic?
3. On one wall, horizontally speaking, the kitchen counter over extends the cupboards above by about 1.25 inches. I could match the backsplash to the counter or to the cupboards above. In cases like these, what's the more common choice? I'm thinking I should match the cupboards, not the counter top. I guess a third option would be to run a column of 1.25" cuts of tile all the way up the wall to the ceiling, but I'm not sure that would look right and it certainly would be more work.
4. There will only be one edge that doesn't terminate in a corner. (See #3 above). For that edge I can use bullnose or I can use one of those metal edging strips. What choice ooks better, especially considering the problem I described in #3.
Thanks!
Thanks for the very useful advice, tips and resources.

1. Still the standard to leave a 1/4" between countertop and first row of tiles which will later be filled with chalking?
2. This project is over plaster and in some areas, dry wall. Paint was fully cured over a year ago, but the kitchen's been in use. How picky do I need to be about the cleaning? Is TSP still the go to or or there a modern alternative, perhaps one that's effective but less toxic?
3. On one wall, horizontally speaking, the kitchen counter over extends the cupboards above by about 1.25 inches. I could match the backsplash to the counter or to the cupboards above. In cases like these, what's the more common choice? I'm thinking I should match the cupboards, not the counter top. I guess a third option would be to run a column of 1.25" cuts of tile all the way up the wall to the ceiling, but I'm not sure that would look right and it certainly would be more work.
4. There will only be one edge that doesn't terminate in a corner. (See #3 above). For that edge I can use bullnose or I can use one of those metal edging strips. What choice ooks better, especially considering the problem I described in #3.
Thanks!