overflow for tub

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  #1  
Old 12-08-01, 12:28 PM
Bluerain
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overflow for tub

Putting in new tub, do all overflows for tub come in standard size ?

What i'm trying to say is ..the overflow thingy and the pipe that goes to the drain.


My old tub had overflow outside tub ,but with the new tub the cutout is inside tub.( i have to buy the kit)

PS: i know i have to reroute pipes and all, but i need to know if these kits come in one standard size from cutout to drain.


I hope i'm making sense
Thanks
Blue
 
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  #2  
Old 12-09-01, 02:19 PM
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Tub drain

Yes, tub drain assemblies come in one standard size, but it is adjustable for the minor differences in tubs. Home Depot or Lowes will have what you need.

Nashcat
 
  #3  
Old 12-09-01, 02:21 PM
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Yes.
These are fairly standard plumbing items.
This is a schematic for a typical type of tub drain and overflow assembly that might help you get the picture.

Good luck!
Mike
 
  #4  
Old 12-09-01, 02:45 PM
Bluerain
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Thanks

Thanks for taking the time to reply

Blue
 
  #5  
Old 12-09-01, 05:31 PM
Bluerain
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Oldguy,

Number 22 in the pic you provided( waste elbow) that comes up level with the floor, correct? It is level with the old ruff floor so i figure i have to raise it to the new height .


I have to raise the "waste elbow" around 1 inch and 3/4,

Do they sell vertical extenders or do i need to buy 45 degree elbows?

I need to raise it because new tub is a whirlpool and need access to motor thru skirt just in case. (can't have skirt buried beneath the floor, need to have it level with new floor)

The waste tube(pic 21) is on a slant slightly downward for flow of water( i know its suppose to be that way)

Also, the waste tube has to be shorten ( old center of drain was 15, new center of drain is 16 3/8)

My only option (no access beneath the floor) is to cut waste pipe and add shorter waste pipe with a "no hub connector"

Can i use a no hub connector?

Thanks so much.


PS: Or should i just use existing floor and have skirt 1 3/4 inch below new floor and just caulk in front of skirt? This way if something goes wrong i will just have to rip out caulk and remove skirt.

It will save me alot of work bringing the floor up to new level and i won't have to raise "waste elbow"

Blue
 
  #6  
Old 12-09-01, 05:53 PM
Bluerain
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Remember, my waste pipe is coming from outside of tub where old overflow was.

Waste pipe is coming in from left of tub so i need to shorten it due to new center drain.

Also, i will have to get "a tee pipe" to bring up the new overflow to tub and also hook up the drain with it.

Do they have drain elbows that are tees?

This is turning into a job

Blue
 
  #7  
Old 12-09-01, 09:17 PM
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It's a little difficult to advise you with specifics, because I can't see exactly what you need to do.
Basically, you can get any type of plumbing drain connections that you need (different kits and bubble packs), and cut waste pipe to length on the end that fits into another fitting (with a slip nut and washer).
A no-hub connector is not what you need, although you certainly can use one in a drain line if you choose. I would use drain fittings with slip nuts and washers on a solid length of pipe. One end of the pipe may be threaded (such as #21 into #22), and cut to the length you need to get to #19 on the other end.
# 22 needs to be raised (with plumbing) to fit firmly.against the bottom of your tub drain opening. It has female threads and you screw the drain itself into it (using plumber's putty inside the tub under the lip of the drain in the recess to seal it).
Roll the plumber's putty in your hands, wrap the roll around the drain hole in the bottom of the tub, tighten the drain down on it, and wipe off the excess putty.
You can use the handles of a pair of channel locks or regular pliers down in the drain to turn it with a screwdriver for leverage to tighten it.
#21 can be whatever length you need to cut to get into # 19 with a slip nut and washer. (#19 is where the tub drain is sealed with #14.)
#20 goes into the trap for the tub.
When making up drains, you should have 1/4" of slope per foot of pipe, ideally.
You can connect brass drain and overflow fittings at the tub onto PVC white plastic drain connections or whatever you have.
All that you need to do is "measure twice, and cut once" to make up your plumbing fittings. It isn't that difficult, once you determine exactly what you need to do it.
Good Luck!
Mike
 
  #8  
Old 12-10-01, 02:19 AM
Bluerain
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Number 20 in your picture, for me number 20 is coming off the side of 22 in your picture(the side showing,left)

My problem is i can't get to the spot where 20 connects underground, so i have to cut 20 and use a "no hub connector".

There will be no threads to screw on a slipnut and washer because i will have to cut number 20 because i can't get to the connection below there.


Number 19 has to be a elbow not a tee,because number 20 is coiming in from the side of 22 from the left.

I hope i'm explaining this right

Thanks so much

Blue
 
  #9  
Old 12-10-01, 02:31 AM
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If I understand you, the pipe from the drain in the bottom of the tub goes directly to an elbow down to the trap?
You can put a no-hub connector (aka Fernco coupling) to connect o.k. there.
Where is the overflow pipe connected, if the drain from the tub goes directly to the trap?
 
  #10  
Old 12-10-01, 03:42 AM
Bluerain
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There was a overflow outside tub which i removed, i can't unscrew the elbow ( outside of tub)which the overflow and drain pipe was connected to.( the original connections was buried in concrete,afraid pipi will break)

So i just want to shorten drain pipe that was going to drain (for new center 16 3/8) and connect with hub connector.

Also, where the overflow pipe was connected to would have to be sealed off.

I have no access to trap, buried somewhere under concrete.


|
| this is old overflow sticking up out of floor outside of tub.
|
|
|
| o drain in tub
| |
| |
-------------------------


It's not coming out the way i want to post it so just,Move the drain in tub to the end of line below to right



I can't unscrew drain pipe where old overflow and drain pipe was screwed on, it must be cut.

Now i want to do this

o overflow
|
|
|
O TUB DRAIN
|
--------HUB CONNECTOR--------
Now move" tub drain and overflow "to end of hub connector to the right

I want to cut old drain pipe and put hub there.

To left of where hub connector will be is where the old over flow was, i will have to seal off that opening with some kind of connector, any ideas? It was a long cylinder metal [pole about 15 inches high, it screwed into tee below (i unscrewed it but we can't get the old drain pipe unscrewed,that's why i want to cut old drain pipe and put a hub there because we must shorten drain pipe.



The old "overflow" was connected just like in your picture, but the overflow part was outside of tub . Staright out to the left of tub.

I know i'm making this more complicated than it is, sorry.


Blue
 

Last edited by Bluerain; 12-11-01 at 04:48 PM.
  #11  
Old 12-10-01, 05:12 AM
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O.K. I "think" that I'm following you now, if this is correct.
The old overflow is "metal", which is probably brass with fine threads, not pipe threads.
You are going to connect the new drain and overflow to the old drain going into the old tee (with a no-hub) that has the old overflow sticking up out of it, and you want to cap off the old overflow above that tee. Right?
You can do that.
Make up the new drain pipe with a tee in it that meets up with the new overflow, and then connect the drain pipe from that new tee to the old drain pipe with a no-hub.
A drain has no pressure unless it gets plugged up, which is the only reason to cap off the old overflow pipe sticking up.
I think that I would just cap off that overflow pipe with a PVC compression fitting and put a PVC pipe thread cap on the upper end of it.

PVC Compression Fitting
Use 3 wraps clockwise only on the male threads of the PVC compression fitting before screwing on the PVC cap, OR use silicone caulk to seal it.
This may not be the only way, but it is probably the easiest.
If you're not following me because I'm not following you correctly, just try again.
Mike
 
  #12  
Old 12-10-01, 05:19 AM
Bluerain
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YES YESN YES, That's it

You explained it back to me just the way i want it to go.

But there's one problem,, can't use pvc(not allowed) is there some other kind of compression fitting to cap off old overflow?

Also, it is what you described , exactly!!! You said :"The old overflow is "metal", which is probably brass with fine threads, not pipe threads"


WOW, thanks so much, i can't believe you understood what i posted.

Well ,now i know i'm in the right direction

Blue
 
  #13  
Old 12-10-01, 05:28 AM
Bluerain
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I have a idea

How about i cut the old overflow pipe down just below floor and screw it back in then just find a cap for it?


No or yes?

Yes i know, the trick is to find the right size cap, being that they were not made to be capped off

Blue
 
  #14  
Old 12-10-01, 05:54 AM
Bluerain
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Actually, that thing that's outside of tub is the "stopper " for when you want to take bath, the water always went down slowly anyway.Guess it was the overflow also that's why water went down slowly when taking a bath.
.

But everything still applies they way you explained it.

Oh, old tub had to be sawed in half yesterday

Blue
 
  #15  
Old 12-10-01, 06:40 AM
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Remove the stopper assembly from the old overflow, if it's still in it.
Can't use a PVC compression coupling?
O.K. How about a brass compression coupling?

Just get a brass cap to fit on the open end of it, just as we talked about with the PVC.
Good Luck!
Mike
 
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Old 12-10-01, 06:45 AM
Bluerain
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Thanks so very much Mike

I checked out your site, for $300.000 out here you get nothing

I could live in a very nice home for that amount by your way!


LOCATION LOCATION LOCATION

Blue
 
  #17  
Old 12-10-01, 07:12 AM
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YW.
Yep. For $300K, you can get a REALLY beautiful waterfront home here! Come on down. LOL
Mike
 
  #18  
Old 12-10-01, 01:56 PM
Bluerain
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Big troubles

Where to start..

Ok,i bought the kit for this whirlpool and it looks just like your drawing. Here's the problem, number 19 in your drawing has no side out for me to connect the pipe where i was going to use the hub connector.

Home depot doesn't have one with side connector(they don't sell them)

It seems these kits are made for drain going down not out to the side the way it is here.

I went to the parts section and the guy said they don't have them.


I can't connect hub to bottom of number 19 ( with a 90 degree) because the grade would be going down in the wrong direction.

If i built it up then i would have to raise the tub way too high above the finished floor.


What to do(i need to shower) i'm going crazy

Blue
 

Last edited by Bluerain; 12-10-01 at 04:02 PM.
  #19  
Old 12-11-01, 03:41 AM
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Forget Home Depot.
Go to a professional plumbing supply store and tell them what you need, and see if they have it or can order it for you. Take your kit with you, so that they can try to match it up.
Also, to cap off that old overflow pipe sticking up, ask them for a Jem cap (similar to a no-hub, but seals pipe instead of connecting it to another).
Good Luck!
Mike
 
  #20  
Old 12-11-01, 10:32 AM
Bluerain
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I found a side out

Now with the new side out it brings tub drain out a additional 6 inches due to the different stopper, spring stopper.( it was perfect before where it was 8 1/2)

That's where it has to be from unfinished wall 8 1/2 "(center tub drain)

So now i have to bring it back 6 inches.Is it ok to use two 90 degree pipes to bring it back as long as long as the pitch is ok?

I have to bring it back from the side waste pipe that is already there ( the one i cut where i was going to use a no hub) to connect it to new side out.

Old stopper was just a plug that fell into place in pipe.

Side out doesn't come with this kind of stopper(that's what i was told anyway) only spring stopper.

Thanks again,i hope i'm not driving u crazy .

Blue
 
  #21  
Old 12-11-01, 11:01 AM
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Make it all up from the tub drain and overflow to the old drain pipe with whatever it takes to connect it.
Just make sure that you have future access, if there's a problem later.

Sounds like you're getting there.
Good Luck!
Mike
 
  #22  
Old 12-11-01, 02:25 PM
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One last thought.
To maintain drains, use a good enzyme-based drain cleaner to prevent sluggish drains, such as DrainCare. Just follow the directions on the jug, and flush it with hot water.
It eats hair, grease, oils, soap scum, etc. out of drains.
It is especially good to use in bathroom drains.
Good Luck, Merry Christmas and Happy New Year for you and yours!
Later,
Mike
 
  #23  
Old 12-11-01, 04:25 PM
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Mike,

Thanks so much for all your help.

I'm sure i'll be asking more questions, plus i'll be taking pictures before and after and will be posting them .

After all, it's your bathroom just as much as mine

PS: Showering at my friends house is beginning to take it's toll on me ( i'm a very private person)

I can't wait to take a nice jacuzzi bath when it's all done

Blue( and feeling blue due to all this trouble)

Merry Christmas and Happy New Year to you and your love ones!
 

Last edited by Bluerain; 12-11-01 at 04:42 PM.
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