Replace a bath tub


  #1  
Old 03-20-02, 03:07 PM
ttpm98
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Replace a bath tub

I plan to replace a bath tub. My bath tub is located at the end of retangular room:
_____________________
| B | T | Sink |
| T | || |__________|
| | Door
|___|________________

Bath tub is surounding by three sides of 4x4 tiles. I want to keep the tiles and only replace the old bath tub by a new steel one:

1. What is the 1st step to remove the old tub after I removed the drain nut and a cap on the tub side?
2. How can I remove the botton row of the tiles?
3. I can not find the matching tiles ? How can I save them ? How many tile rows do I need to remove?
4. Is it possible to lift the tub and remove it out to the room?
Thank you for your help in advance.
 
  #2  
Old 03-24-02, 12:33 AM
D
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Mike,
It might be better to have your tub refinished...

After you disconnect the plumbing, you'll need to remove tile and see if your tub is attached to the wall studs. A lot of cast iron tubs will just sit on the floor (they weigh anywhere from 250-400 lbs.) Any other type tub will likely be attached to the wall studs. Any style will have a lip under the tile. If it's not attached or after you remove whatever fastened it. Take a small preferably thin prybar and slowly pry it away from the wall studs on the back wall. You have to keep the distance from the back wall even on each end or you will bind on the side walls.

Is the rest of the room wider than the tub surround? If so, when you pull the tub out of the surround, you should be able to stand it on end. If the tub is as wide as the room you'll have to break up the tub to remove it. I've seen people pull tubs out through an outside wall but it sure looked like a lot of work.

The bottom row of tiles should be enough access to remove the tub. Use a grout saw above the bottom row to clear out the grout. Try to cut through the thinset (tile mortar) with a carbide utility knife ($9.00 @ Home Depot).If you find drywall underneath the thinset, cut through it and break it out. You might be able to, with a lot of effort, save tiles pulled from drywall. If you have backerboard (will look like concrete) under the tiles, you can kiss them goodbye.

Good Luck.
 
  #3  
Old 03-25-02, 11:57 AM
ttpm98
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Dan,
Thank you for your suggestion. I have thought about refurnishing the tub. It cost $190 but they just warranty for 2 years from Tub Lift Co. Do you think the paint would stay longer the 2 years compared to the new one?
It seems that refinish the tub can save me a lot of work than replace the tub..
The lenhth of the tub is the same with the width of the bath room. One third of the width is built in toillet and the sink over the cabinet. Therefore, only one way to remove the tub is to raise one end of the tub then pull out to the hall way.
---------wall----------
| B | T SINK |
| | --- ------------
| T | DOOR
| |
---------wall----------
^
|--- Raise this side up

B T: Steel Bath Tub
T : Toilet

Thanks again for your input.
 
  #4  
Old 03-25-02, 02:35 PM
dylan925
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how about a bath liner. this is like an acrylic new tub that fits right over the existing one. they make them custom if your size is not stock, hence they cost more than just refinishing but i'll bet it is a lot easier than trying to get your old tub out and you can keep the tile that you like.
 
  #5  
Old 03-25-02, 08:25 PM
D
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If the length of your tub is the same measurement as the width of the bathroom. If I understand your layout correctly, when you try to tilt your tub, you will bind on your walls.
I assume that this is a tub with one exposed side. When you go to tilt it up, say by lifting the right end, the bottom right will hit the wall and the top left will hit the wall.

A name brand tub (kohler, american standard) finish should last many years. Much more than a refinish.

I don't have any experience with the liners that Dylan mentioned, but if I were you I sure would look into it.

Let us know what you do and how it works out!

Daniel
 
  #6  
Old 03-26-02, 06:25 AM
Lulu2
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My husband and I have just replaced the bathtub though we are not finished, yet.

In our case, what was holding the bathtub was the stringer and a bed of sand. There was also cement on the 4 corners of the tub. Tiles have to go first but in our case it was the opposite-tub was not attached to studs. We sliced in 3 pieces the steel tub with a "Sawzall" and carried the pieces to the trash, then we proceeded to remove the tiles with a "widget", thin kitchen knife and with a very thin spatula type of gadget-we would put it underneath and gently tap w/hammer until we could pry it loose. There are "Dremmel Grout Remover Tools" ($60) but I don't recommend them. I bought one and had to return it back to Home Depot. Great tool maybe for floor tile but for bathroom tile it's awful. There's not enough space in between the tiles and it chips the edges and messes them up. I found that the best tool was loads of patience and lots of simple razor blades for a few dollars. I want to forewarn you that it is very tedious job. Do not get too frustrated like my husband because the end result is more breakage of tiles. I ended doing it myself . The end result was that we saved 60% of the tile surrounding the tub and 100% of the tiles on the side wall . We're getting just a few tiles and blending the old ones with new. We ended up cutting a square hole in the bedroom and sliding the new tub in with a new wood stringer. This has been the easiest thing so far. The clean cut of the wall just snaps right in & can be easily repaired. We have to screw back the wall studs and reinforce with wood. Where are we now? We're having a problem with attaching the new drainer assembly because it's loose and it keeps popping out. We were told not to put pvc cement on it because it can't be adjusted later on. We have a bed of sand & are afraid that the sand will get in the plumbing. I think I will post this question, next. Wish you the best in your adventure.

Lulu
 
  #7  
Old 03-26-02, 08:00 AM
ttpm98
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Daniel/DyLan/LuLu,
Thank you for your responses.
- Bath liner: It costs $1900 from Dallas Bath Sysstems, it will cover the tub and three tile sides
- I am afraid of I will end up to cut a hole in the bedroom for removing the tub out. Because there is not enough room to lift one end of the tub to stand position. I have not thought about it until I read the second msg from Daniel.
I looked at the new tub at Home Depot, the inner body of the the tub has ~70 degree angle but the outside body have 90 degree shape. I can bend the old one but it seems I have to slide the new one from the hole in the bed room.
I have read a book about "How to remove the old tub" at Home Depot yesterday. They showed that they only remove one tile row but they have room to take it out.
Handyman charges ~$550 (labor only) for replacing a bath tub.
I may consider to refinish !
 
  #8  
Old 03-26-02, 08:08 AM
Lulu2
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If you don't have any rust, refinishing is the way to go. I wish I had had that option. I hear there are different finishes. Some have a rubbery feel and chip easily. Please do your homework before deciding on the refinishing company and product you choose.
 
  #9  
Old 03-26-02, 05:30 PM
mcgub
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You can remove a 60" tub from a 60" enclosure...however...you will lose a minimum of 2-3 rows of tile on the long side of the tub and 5-6 rows on the end of the tub you pull up. You will also lose the drywall in the same places. There is enough space in the studs to allow you to tilt up one end of the tub.
As you lift it you have to rotate it so the tub falls off of the back wall and keep lifting until it stands straight up.
Installing is the exact reverse. You sort of slide it into place...gently!!
Damn hard thing to describe...but I've done it more times than care to remember
 
  #10  
Old 03-26-02, 06:40 PM
Galv33
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I may have already submitted this...I don't think it was saved. Sorry if it's out there twice.

Here's my situation: Similar to Mike I am removing a old cast iron tub. However, I am also getting rid of the 4 x 4 tiles, sheetrock, etc. 1st Question: How do I detach the drain pipe from bottom of tub ? Is this done from the inside of tub....or do I need to expose the plumbing in the adjacent wall ? Do I need to lift the tub up to get to bottom fixtures ? First time taking on "tub" beast.

Also, the prior owner had a leak....we don't use the shower..only bath. Last year I fixed the sheet rock ceiling on 1st floor...and looked to see if there was any damage. Couldn't see any. 2nd Question: Once I remove the tub should I pull the sub-floor to inspect further for damage ?
 
  #11  
Old 03-26-02, 08:17 PM
mcgub
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I had better update my last babbling post...didn't read everything...the cast iron bit slipped right by me...don't lift tub...break it into manageable pieces to remove...4 is usually enough. The part about installing a new one still works tho

Galv33: You unscrew the strainer in the bottom of your tub...the old tub may have leaked from thru the tiles...really sounds like it if you never had a problem and don't use the shower...I always check the floor around the tub for damage, I doubt you'll need to pull the subfloor to do it. The rot starts at the top.
 
 

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