I know this post is long but I copied and pasted it from msword also I am sure there are other people out there who could use this information. I have a house that has 22 pre 50's double hung wood windows. I will begin replacing the windows in the spring, I like to prepare myself thoroughly before doing any project. The instructions listed below is the procedure I will be following to replace my windows with a vinyl window that is sized to retrofit perfectly. I have done research to obtain the information I needed to complete the project. I am very comfortable with doing the job however since this is my first window replacement project I have a few detailed questions that I would like answers to. Since this post is long I will post my questions in a new post below this one. 1. Remove the inside moldings (stops) with a broad chisel and save them for later use, being careful not to break them. 2. Any cords and weights, or spring balances can then be removed so that the old bottom wood sash can be easily removed as shown. Remove the pulleys. If the screws can't be backed out because of corrosion, stick the flathead screwdriver into the pulley and pry it out. 3. Pry out the top parting stop. Pliers can easily remove most stops. 4. Pry out the side stops - left and right. For stops that are heavily painted or stuck, you can use the broad chisel to shear off the part of the stop that protrudes into the jamb. 5. Once the parting stops are out, the upper sash can be easily removed from the outer track. 6. If the old window has preformed aluminum tracks, there will be no wood parting stops on the sides, but there will be one on top. Remove the top parting stop Then remove the staples holding the preformed track. There is also a small aluminum block on the top and bottom of the aluminum track. It too, must be removed. 7. Once the staples are removed, both the upper and lower sash-and the tracks can be removed as a single unit. Prepare the Opening 8. Clean the opening of any debris. Cover any holes made by the weight pulleys, etc. Remove any old screen hook eyes or other protruding screws or fasteners. If there are holes left by the old weights and cords, fill the holes with batt insulation and cover with a thin metal plate or aluminum tape. 9. Install the supplied Starter Strip - Sill Angle on the outer sill, 1/8" behind the blindstop. Caulk the inside edge of the stool and outside along sill angle. 10. Install the supplied head expander on top of the window. If desired, place fiber glass batte insulation between the expander and the window. Try the window to see if the expander rests too high.The legs of the expander may need to be trimmed with a razor knife to accommodate height variations. 11. Caulk the inside edge of the blindstop along the top and down both sides. Make the caulk bead about 1/8". The bead should not lay against the window frame - just the blindstop. Place a bead of caulk on the top of the expander. Install the New Window 12. Place the window in the caulked opening by placing the inside lower edge on the outside sill tightly against the stool. Tilt the window into the opening taking care to have the outer edge rest securely on the sill angle. 13. Check for plumb (vertical) and level (horizontal). It is important that the window remain square in the opening even if the opening itself isn't square. Use flat shims to keep the window square. 14. Place the shims behind the mounting screw holes. There are 2 screw holes on each side at the top and bottom. Tighten the screws "finger tight." Use flat shims or non-tapered shims. Tapered shims can contort the frame which may impede smooth operation of the sash. Note: Some windows may have a "butterfly" clip with an adjustment screw in the center of each side. This adjuster eliminates the need for shims in the center of the window. Adjust the clips "finger tight". Once the frame is anchored "finger-tight" check plumb (vertical) and level (horizontal), and square (90 degree corners) and tighten all the screws. Do not over-tighten. Secure is sufficient. If you over-tighten, the frame will deform and the window may not operate correctly or efficiently. 15. Push the head expander up tight against the upper part of the opening. Replace the upper inside molding tight against the expander. Secure the expander, if necessary, with the two small screws provided. 16. Replace the side inside moldings tight against the window. Caulk against the inside moldings and window to seal any gap. If you desire, you can replace the inside moldings. 17. Caulk outside where the sill angle meets the sill. Take care to seal any gap. 18. Caulk outside where the window meets the blindstop. Finish the Job Inside and Outside. To complete the installation and carefully seal against the weather, it is helpful to repair any damage to the outside of the house. Fill any old storm window holes or screen holes with putty. Use a paintable caulk so you'll be able to re-finish the outside and seal it to the new window. Choose your Caulk Carefully. The caulk you choose is important. For interior use, especially if you are not going to paint, it should be a silicone-based sealant that closely matches the color of the vinyl replacement window. Exterior caulk should be a silicone based sealant if you're not. :o

If I have white vinyl replacement windows installed, can I paint the interior surface of the new windows to match the room decor? I have heard that it is impossible to paint these surfaces.