windows...new ones

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  #1  
Old 01-08-03, 08:52 PM
nascarnut112
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Unhappy windows...new ones

I am putting up a wall where the old garage door used to be. I have to put 2ea. windows in this wall, I used 2x4, on 16 centers, put osb board up, cut out for windows(I framed in for windows too) my question is.. does the window go in over the osb, over the osb and siding, or when?? I tried it over just the osb and it makes the pine siding uneven?? and yes this is my first wall..with windows in it.. please help.. got a baby on the way..need this done fast!! thank you
 
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  #2  
Old 01-09-03, 03:04 AM
L
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First, what kind of siding will you be putting on this wall?
 
  #3  
Old 01-09-03, 08:18 AM
nascarnut112
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right now the siding will be Pine. 4x8 sheets...3/8thick, The rest is done in fur..but couldn't find any at this time.. the pine matched up(grooves 4") but we will putting vinyl siding on the entire garage and house..in the future..maybe 1-2yrs max. does that help any??
 
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Old 01-09-03, 10:13 AM
Tn...Andy
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Some.....what do you mean by "Makes the siding uneven ?"
 
  #5  
Old 01-09-03, 11:05 AM
nascarnut112
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the windows I'm using are Relibuilt vinyl windows, the flap?? where you put nails..or screws into to secure the window is 1/8 to 1/4 thick.. when ya lay the siding over it it becomes on even.
 
  #6  
Old 01-09-03, 01:13 PM
Tn...Andy
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Ah ha....finally....it's like pulling teeth sometimes .....

The "flap" is your nailing flange. I have two suggestions.

1. The siding you're using is very thin crap, and if you nail it TIGHT near the window, it will deform as you've already noticed. Leave the nails looser near the windows so it doesn't pull it down so tight.

2. If that still doesn't cut it, you can take a utility knife and cut the nailing flange completely off, then use some screw thru the side jambs....in a location where they don't interfere with the windows moving up and down...... THis is how replacement windows are installed and will work fine for yours too.

Some things to watch for if you go this route...Don't tighten the screws TOO TIGHT or you'll pull the sides of the window jamb and it won't seal or operate properly....just snug them up and quit.

Make use you get your window placed in the hole the same depth all around....the nailing flange would normally stop the window from passing thru to far into the hole, with it gone, you'll have to measure carefully.

Caulk is going to be more important since the nailing flange also acts as a seal somewhat...and maybe a metal drip cap( like older windows had) on the top so water doesn't run in on top the window
 
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Old 01-09-03, 02:57 PM
nascarnut112
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Talking

Thanks for the info, I'll have to decide which route to go.. the later maybe more work,but probably look better, I know the siding is nothing to write home about,need to tell lowes that.. at $14 bucks a sheet... way tooooooo much..but gotta have it, couldn't find the fur siding in 4" strip's, just 8", could I go ahead and use the flange to start with, then put screws thru the sides, then cut the flange??? I just think that would look better w/o the flange...and silicon the crap outta it!!!!
 
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Old 01-09-03, 03:32 PM
L
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Keeping the nail fin on until you have the windows screwed in like Andy suggested would help you set the windows at the proper depth. A sharp blade in your utility knife will make it pretty easy to cut off. Just score it several times and it should break right off. Once the nail fins are off and the siding is in place, I would use either Vulkem 116 or Sikaflex to seal around the edges, NOT silicon. And, making a smooth bead will save you a lot of headaches when you put the 1X trim around the windows. Once that trim is on, caulk the edge where it contacts the siding with a paintable caulking. After everything is painted and the paint has dried, caulk the joint between the trim board and the window frame with white silicon. Done properly, you shouldn't have any problem with silicon smears on the painted board.
 
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