Drywall around window

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Old 05-24-03, 05:58 PM
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Drywall around window

I have a house where the drywall goes right up to the windows and I want to put wood trim around the windows. Do I remove the 3" of drywall in the window opening or put the wood over the drywall? Are there books that show pictures with detailed instructions for a job like this or is it something you just learn on the job? I need a visual aid so I can do this right. It seems that the drywall would have to be removed but I haven't read anything that says to do it in all the instructions I've read about how to trim a window on the net. They never show window openings like these.
 
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Old 05-24-03, 08:05 PM
Tn...Andy
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It sorts depends on how much frame you have showing from the drywall now to the opening where the sashes slide. If you have 1/2 to 3/4", you have enough room to make a wood extension jamb and just nail it over the drywall, bringing it out flush with the wall plane, then add casing to the wall overlapping the extension jamb by about 1/2 of it's thickness. This is exactly what I do when using vinyl windows in new construction.

IF you don't have enough room, then you'll have to remove the drywall.....but I wouldn't fool with it IF it can be avoided.

I sent BOBmd some pics yesterday and he said he would post them on his website showing exactly what you want.....he has metal jambs instead of drywall where you do and wants to cover them also.....and will use the same method....So be watching for him to anounce the posting.

Did you give up on replacing them ?
 
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Old 05-25-03, 09:30 AM
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I found a guy who does Simonton windows and decided to go with him. Every other window I saw had something that was substandard. He had the lowest price of all the ones I've seen here. It was still too high for me but after getting 10 estimates I figured I have seen all of them and couldn't do any better. I don't know how much of the frame will be showing when the windows are installed but I am just trying to estimate the amount of work I will have to do after they are installed. I will have to replace the stools since they have always had condensation dripping down on them from these aluminum windows for 20 years. They are warped and have no finish left on them. Do vinyl replacement windows have enough of the frame showing usually? When I looked at these window openings and imagined them with wood around them , they are only 24" wide, and I thought it would reduce the opening too much so I would have to take the drywall off but I REALLY don't want to deal with the mess THAT is going to make. Thank you for all your sage advice .
 
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Old 05-25-03, 01:50 PM
Tn...Andy
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Terry,

If you're getting replacements, they will go in on top the sheetrock....the new window will set in the hole anywhere they choose to set it....so what I do, and I recommend you tell them to do this, is set the outside in line with where the old window was....there's usually a caulk line that is easy to see and line up with, and set the extra thickness of the frame back to the inside. This will cover 3/4" to a 1" or so of the crappy sheetrock edge that used to meet the aluminum window and is usually falling apart from the moisture off that old window. I measure mine to fit tight to the sheetrock and all that is needed is a bead of caulk to seal it on the inside.

And Yes, you'll have plenty of frame showing when this is done so you won't have to pull the old sheetrock off.

Go down to Bob MD's thread right near this one on Replacing Metl Frames and scroll down near the bottom of the post to where he has posted the pics I sent him showing some wood extension jambs and cased openings....these are some I just did on a rental house I'm finishing up, and Bob was kind enough to post them.

That will give you some idea what you can do in the inside to dress them up.
 
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Old 05-26-03, 04:29 PM
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Replace the whole thing

I had a similair problem.
I ended up ripping out ALL of the old window, trim, sill everything.
Most of it was rotted out pretty bad.
I tore everythign down to the rough opening and "rebuilt" the entire thing starting with new construction windows then adding wooden interior and exterior trim.
I was a lot of work but i belive the results were worth it.
I used a 2x6 for the sill, 1x4's for the interior trim and 2x4's for the exterior trim.
The lumber I used is much cheaper than window moulding and still looks better than sheetrocking the jambs.
I DON'T do windows for a living, just 1/2 way handy with the table saw

Here's the results:

http://briefcase.yahoo.com/bc/bigguy...c=bc%26.view=t

http://briefcase.yahoo.com/bc/bigguy...c=bc%26.view=t
 
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Old 05-27-03, 04:59 PM
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I love to see the pictures. In my house the window stools, mantle and cabinets are all oak veneer but I think the door trim and baseboards are pine , stained the same color as the oak. I haven't checked the price of oak veneer for new stools but I bet I won't like it. I read that todays pine is not good quality and shouldn't be used for the stool since it's exposed to alot of moisture and kids and the pet's claws.
 
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Old 05-27-03, 07:45 PM
Tn...Andy
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Terry,

Mine ain't veneer.....it's solid red oak...and I took it from the log to the final form, so I don't have all that much in it.......once you get past the 100k worth of equipment I've got, snicker,.......I figure I can make the casing for 5-10 cents/foot, whereas it's about a buck/foot at the store.
 
 

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