4 by 8 foot double pain window install questions please :}
#1
06-01-03, 10:13 PM
4 by 8 foot double pain window install questions please :}
Hi to all, I love DIY. Ok I recently put a new window in place of the broken older one. It is a double pain and it looks beutiful, but I got one question before seling the outside up.
When I drove past the house to look at the window, I noticed the reflections of objects in front of the window, such as the tree and a truck, etc., well I noticed that the reflecting images on the window during the day were bnending and warping as I drove past the house. This told me the window wasnt perfectly flush somewhere, but we did level and plumb. The framework was not all the great and flush, so this could be why this happens.
Is this a problem? I around the neighborhood to see if other peaples windows did this also, and most did. I had to ask this because the other original single glass windows which are also in front of the house will reflect perfect images when passing by, without distortion.
What are the downfalls of keeping the window mounted in this way?? The 2 side section slide open and close with ok effort, by the way the window is used and was installed and removed once before. I got a good price on it, and appreciate the energy savings of double glass, but I just dont want to screw it up in the long run because I didnt do something right.
ARE YOU SUPPOSED TO SCREW IT IN tightly around the window frame, or just enough to hold it in place without wiggling or moving around?? It was almost a serious installation project, but it slided in position, coming from the top, for the bottom part of window to first go into the area which is brick. I cannot screw bottom in, but both sides and top are screwed in. Also, its not a serious warping image I see when I pass the window by, but am very picky. suggestions would be great guys!!
Oh by the way, whats the difference between stucco and plaster?? I need to fill in some cracks outside around the window, and the material is very hard, somewhat grey in color. I just dont know which to get.. bye guys..
J
When I drove past the house to look at the window, I noticed the reflections of objects in front of the window, such as the tree and a truck, etc., well I noticed that the reflecting images on the window during the day were bnending and warping as I drove past the house. This told me the window wasnt perfectly flush somewhere, but we did level and plumb. The framework was not all the great and flush, so this could be why this happens.
Is this a problem? I around the neighborhood to see if other peaples windows did this also, and most did. I had to ask this because the other original single glass windows which are also in front of the house will reflect perfect images when passing by, without distortion.
What are the downfalls of keeping the window mounted in this way?? The 2 side section slide open and close with ok effort, by the way the window is used and was installed and removed once before. I got a good price on it, and appreciate the energy savings of double glass, but I just dont want to screw it up in the long run because I didnt do something right.
ARE YOU SUPPOSED TO SCREW IT IN tightly around the window frame, or just enough to hold it in place without wiggling or moving around?? It was almost a serious installation project, but it slided in position, coming from the top, for the bottom part of window to first go into the area which is brick. I cannot screw bottom in, but both sides and top are screwed in. Also, its not a serious warping image I see when I pass the window by, but am very picky. suggestions would be great guys!!
Oh by the way, whats the difference between stucco and plaster?? I need to fill in some cracks outside around the window, and the material is very hard, somewhat grey in color. I just dont know which to get.. bye guys..
J
#2
06-01-03, 11:32 PM
Aluminum or vinyl frame?
I gather that the nail fin is still attached to the window frame. When you installed it, you did use a sealant (like vulkem or Sikaflex) between the fin and the framing members of the wall that it attaches to, right?
No problem using nails or screws in the side fins. Drive them far enough so that they touch the frame without distorting it. There should be slots in the fins. Install the nails or screws in the center of those slots. Across the top, I would use 8d finish nails (about 4 of them for an 8' window) and drive them into the header ABOVE the nail fin until they about an inch out, then bend them over the fin.
If this is a vinyl frame window, you can secure the bottom just like you would if you were retrofitting it. Remove both sahses. Use the smallest Wonder Bar (about 1/2" wide and 4" long) and pop the track that the sashes ride on out of the frame. Lay the track on the window sill exactly like it came out of the frame. Put a couple or three 2-1/2" or 3" deck screws down through the bottom of the frame, into the wood sill that the window should be sitting on. When the screws have about an inch of the shank showing, STOP and put a little dab of silicon on the shank. Now continue sinking the screw until only about 1/8" of the shank is showing. (Don't sink the head into the vinyl!) Snap the track back in and put the sashes back in.
I gather that the nail fin is still attached to the window frame. When you installed it, you did use a sealant (like vulkem or Sikaflex) between the fin and the framing members of the wall that it attaches to, right?
No problem using nails or screws in the side fins. Drive them far enough so that they touch the frame without distorting it. There should be slots in the fins. Install the nails or screws in the center of those slots. Across the top, I would use 8d finish nails (about 4 of them for an 8' window) and drive them into the header ABOVE the nail fin until they about an inch out, then bend them over the fin.
If this is a vinyl frame window, you can secure the bottom just like you would if you were retrofitting it. Remove both sahses. Use the smallest Wonder Bar (about 1/2" wide and 4" long) and pop the track that the sashes ride on out of the frame. Lay the track on the window sill exactly like it came out of the frame. Put a couple or three 2-1/2" or 3" deck screws down through the bottom of the frame, into the wood sill that the window should be sitting on. When the screws have about an inch of the shank showing, STOP and put a little dab of silicon on the shank. Now continue sinking the screw until only about 1/8" of the shank is showing. (Don't sink the head into the vinyl!) Snap the track back in and put the sashes back in.
#3
06-02-03, 04:33 AM
its a milgard brand window
and there are NO mounting slots on any of the "fins". I need to know why you would use nails on top, and not just drill holes and screws on top. maybe that is where I messed up and that is why its twisting somewhere.?? I sealed her up soooo nicely, and now Ill have to rip it off. Hey, also, I read that these dual panes dont last for more than 15 to 20 years?? is this true? thanks.
p.s. the right framing stud is very untrue and not flush with the others. I did however screw in that side fin to the surface, SHould I have shimmed it? man oh man..
p.s. the right framing stud is very untrue and not flush with the others. I did however screw in that side fin to the surface, SHould I have shimmed it? man oh man..
#4
06-04-03, 04:40 PM
Member
The distorted images that you are seeing sounds like a glass problem. If it's tempered you will definitely see distortion, some window glass double pane windows give a distorted image when look at an angle. Is this one large fixed window or a picture window?
#5
06-04-03, 08:32 PM
InspectorJ,
The reasoning behind bending the nails over at the top, and using the slots in the nail fin on the sides and bottom (I'm guessing here -- this is just what every mfgr. says to do!!) would have to be because the bottom and sides of the frame will move around less as the window expands and contracts, whereas the top is going to move more. That makes some sense -- every movement that occurs on the bottom or a side is going to ALSO occur at the top. The bottom can't go down -- it is sitting on the sill -- but the top can rise, along with moving side to side.
When you say "the right framing stud is very untrue and not flush with the others." -- just how far from flush is it?? If it's 1/16" in at both the top and bottom, and you simply don't overtighten the nail or screw closest to the top and bottom, you should be fine. But if by "not flush..." you mean 1/4", then yes, you probably should have shimmed that side.
Whether it is this or something else cauing the distortion you are seeing, at this point, I don't know. Depends on just what you are saying when you say that the right side framing isn't flush.
The reasoning behind bending the nails over at the top, and using the slots in the nail fin on the sides and bottom (I'm guessing here -- this is just what every mfgr. says to do!!) would have to be because the bottom and sides of the frame will move around less as the window expands and contracts, whereas the top is going to move more. That makes some sense -- every movement that occurs on the bottom or a side is going to ALSO occur at the top. The bottom can't go down -- it is sitting on the sill -- but the top can rise, along with moving side to side.
When you say "the right framing stud is very untrue and not flush with the others." -- just how far from flush is it?? If it's 1/16" in at both the top and bottom, and you simply don't overtighten the nail or screw closest to the top and bottom, you should be fine. But if by "not flush..." you mean 1/4", then yes, you probably should have shimmed that side.
Whether it is this or something else cauing the distortion you are seeing, at this point, I don't know. Depends on just what you are saying when you say that the right side framing isn't flush.
#6
06-08-03, 12:09 AM
The distorted view may be caused by the outer glass panel flexing or bowing due to the expansion of the air within the thermpane unit. it could be.....the glass unit is faulty and the image reflection is distorted more than (standard?) Cause__ the unit being comprised of sheets of glass which are too thin..... ie 1/8" glass over 8 feet is going to flex or bow under pressure more than 1/4" over an 8 foot span. ..... or not faulty with slight distortion being withing tolerance. Post back with glass size spec for more information. As a rule of thumb, the manufacturer I purchased from supplied 3/16" glass on orders over 40 wide" which prevented excessive distortion.
The window is large by thermopane standard therefore bow or flex of the glass panels is going to be more noticable...( If I recall from a past post, your house is located in a warm climate which will cause more expansion within the glass unit...
The window is large by thermopane standard therefore bow or flex of the glass panels is going to be more noticable...( If I recall from a past post, your house is located in a warm climate which will cause more expansion within the glass unit...
#7
06-08-03, 03:10 PM
cool guys
yeah there isnt too much distortion, and your opinions make sense, so I feel much better. Im just too detailed. Hey guys the top and both sides are what is screwed and mounted to the frame. the bottom of window is just sitting on the bottom portion of the frame, its impossible really to screw anything down in this area because there are bricks in the way. hmmm Should I finish it with stucco only or use a wood frame type of finish? If stucco is water tight/proof around the aluminum framing, then I think this would be better, any ideas or pointers would be lovely...
