Replacement windows
#1
07-28-03, 08:55 PM
Replacement windows
I am a single woman and don't know much about home improvement, etc. I am putting new vinyl replacement windows in my home. My question is what is best.... retrofit windows...or windows in which they remove the frames? The windows in the front of my house are wood trimmed but the windows in the back of my house are stucco trimmed.
Also... shopping for vinyl replacements is confusing... what are the qualities / criteria to look for in a replacement windows? I have info from Simontin, Certainteed, and others.... help!!!!
Thank you so much... you'll never know how much I appreciate your input.
Terrie
Also... shopping for vinyl replacements is confusing... what are the qualities / criteria to look for in a replacement windows? I have info from Simontin, Certainteed, and others.... help!!!!
Thank you so much... you'll never know how much I appreciate your input.
Terrie
#2
07-29-03, 03:55 AM
......"you'll never know how much I appreciate your input. "
Well now, here's the deal....you Email a pie to whoever gives you the best advice.....I like apple or sweet potato.....I pretty sure Lefty likes rubbarb with vanilla ice cream......( snicker )
The retrofit will be the least expensive....in the case of your aluminum windows, the frames should be ok.....so if they can go over the top of them and hide the fact they are in there, it shouldn't matter. That apparently is how it's done a lot in your neck of the woods....Lefty can weigh in more expertly on that...
Here, I almost always pull the frames on metal windows.....but we don't have stucco to contend with....
On the wood, again, unless the frames are rotted, I'd do retro's......what we call replacements here....and NOT pull the existing frame, simply from a cost standpoint. You'll pay twice or more for a complete new window by the time you factor in the extra labor.....
Either Simonton or Certainteed ( which are almost the same window, except the Certainteed has a little better warranty in my opinion) will be an excellent choice.
Get the ones with mechanical frame and welded sashes......that would be their mid grade window and is just fine.....LowE glass is a good thing to get...should not add more than $25 to a window or you're being charged too much.
Get 3 estimates and check back here with your window sizes and prices BEFORE you sign anything and we'll give you an idea if that's reasonable or whether you need to keep shopping.
AND TELL each window company rep you're gonna get 3 estimates so they get right to their bottom line without all the BS.
DO NOT SIGN ANYTHING the day the come out....Sleep on it. If one of them says "today and today only", cross them off the list and DO NOT do business with them.
Well now, here's the deal....you Email a pie to whoever gives you the best advice.....I like apple or sweet potato.....I pretty sure Lefty likes rubbarb with vanilla ice cream......( snicker )
The retrofit will be the least expensive....in the case of your aluminum windows, the frames should be ok.....so if they can go over the top of them and hide the fact they are in there, it shouldn't matter. That apparently is how it's done a lot in your neck of the woods....Lefty can weigh in more expertly on that...
Here, I almost always pull the frames on metal windows.....but we don't have stucco to contend with....
On the wood, again, unless the frames are rotted, I'd do retro's......what we call replacements here....and NOT pull the existing frame, simply from a cost standpoint. You'll pay twice or more for a complete new window by the time you factor in the extra labor.....
Either Simonton or Certainteed ( which are almost the same window, except the Certainteed has a little better warranty in my opinion) will be an excellent choice.
Get the ones with mechanical frame and welded sashes......that would be their mid grade window and is just fine.....LowE glass is a good thing to get...should not add more than $25 to a window or you're being charged too much.
Get 3 estimates and check back here with your window sizes and prices BEFORE you sign anything and we'll give you an idea if that's reasonable or whether you need to keep shopping.
AND TELL each window company rep you're gonna get 3 estimates so they get right to their bottom line without all the BS.
DO NOT SIGN ANYTHING the day the come out....Sleep on it. If one of them says "today and today only", cross them off the list and DO NOT do business with them.
#3
08-01-03, 09:09 PM
http://www.energycodes.gov/news/2002...dfs/benney.pdf
This site briefly explains the National Fenestration Rating Council (NFRC) Label. You along with most people find it difficult to identify the differences between windows, except for the prices and the name brands. Most vynal windows look somewhat similar. Basically what the label does for the buyer is that it rates the performance of each window.
This site briefly explains the National Fenestration Rating Council (NFRC) Label. You along with most people find it difficult to identify the differences between windows, except for the prices and the name brands. Most vynal windows look somewhat similar. Basically what the label does for the buyer is that it rates the performance of each window.
#4
08-01-03, 11:58 PM
Andy, Andy, Andy,
First PUMPKIN', then lemon
Rhubbarb rates right down there with mince meat. (But, then, after the lee.wallace & tension string thread, I s'pose I deserve that!!)
But, VANILLA???? Man, haven't you ever had Moose Tracks!!!
Seriously tleeson,
Like everybody else, you will HAVE to put up with Andy and I gettin' on each other! But, as much as I hate to admit it, he's telling you true. Pull the frame or leave the frame -- we are not in cold country. (HOT?, Yes, us and Adrar, Algeria. 116 degrees last Tuesday -- hottest places on EARTH that day!!) Stucco, I generally leave the frames. Wood, I usually pull them. Then, too, it all depends on the aluminum frame I'm dealing with. Some aluminum frames are so equal on all 4 sides that leaving them isn't a problem. Others have such huge differences in their exterior levels that pulling them is the only option. (Doesn't matter what the siding is!)
You mentioned Certainteed and Simington. Let me throw another name at you -- Amerimax. Made in West Sac., and they have a better warranty than the other 2 combined. You have a problem, they fix it. You sell the house and the next owner has a problem, they still fix it!!
First PUMPKIN', then lemon
Rhubbarb rates right down there with mince meat. (But, then, after the lee.wallace & tension string thread, I s'pose I deserve that!!)
But, VANILLA???? Man, haven't you ever had Moose Tracks!!!
Seriously tleeson,
Like everybody else, you will HAVE to put up with Andy and I gettin' on each other! But, as much as I hate to admit it, he's telling you true. Pull the frame or leave the frame -- we are not in cold country. (HOT?, Yes, us and Adrar, Algeria. 116 degrees last Tuesday -- hottest places on EARTH that day!!) Stucco, I generally leave the frames. Wood, I usually pull them. Then, too, it all depends on the aluminum frame I'm dealing with. Some aluminum frames are so equal on all 4 sides that leaving them isn't a problem. Others have such huge differences in their exterior levels that pulling them is the only option. (Doesn't matter what the siding is!)
You mentioned Certainteed and Simington. Let me throw another name at you -- Amerimax. Made in West Sac., and they have a better warranty than the other 2 combined. You have a problem, they fix it. You sell the house and the next owner has a problem, they still fix it!!
