Is there a problem with expansion of vinyl in the winter time? If I install vinyl replacement windows below 40 degrees will there be a problem in the spring when the windows begin to contract?

I'd like to know so I know if I should start scheduling window work for the spring or just work on it this year.

 

I install 'em year round. They will expand and contract slightly with temperature changes, and you leave the install screws somewhat loose to compensate for that.

 

Grumpy, expansion and contraction isn't a problem -- you simply allow for it. Like Andy said, don't SINK the screws that you install them with -- this allows the window to expand and contract. And leave a bit of a gap around them when you install them -- they should rest solidly on the sill, ALL THE WAY ACROSS, but leave an 1/8" to 1/4" gap on each side, and the same gap across the top.

Oh, and if you install them when it's 40 degrees outside, in the winter, they will GROW (slightly) when it warms up -- not shrink!

 

Lefty,

Thanks for your advice on my 'broken lentil' question. I want to have the brickwork and lentil above my kitchen window fixed, and then replace the old kitchen window with something more energy efficient.

The winter nights in Philly usually drop below freezing - is that too cold for new mortar to set? I'm sure my local contractor will say "no, of course not!" but I'm interested in a neutral point of view!

Also, any recommendations on brand names or frame styles? Energy efficiency is my top priority, then aesthetics.

Thanks again for your posts!

 

Concrete (and mortar) dry due to a chemical reaction, NOT evaporation. By adding calcium to the mix in cold weather, most of the effects of the cold on this reaction can be offset. And you now know pretty much everything I know on the subject!! Best bet would be to pose the question in the Bricks, Masonary and Concrete forum and let the pros there answer it. My concern would be how much (if any) affect the calcium would have on the strength of the cured mortar.

Two words of advise on picking an energy efficient window -- "Energy Star". Look at the NFRC rating sticker and learn what the numbers mean. (This is kind of like the MPG sticker on a car.)

The "U-Factor" and "SHGC" numbers, in a dual pane vinyl window with low-E glass will be in the range of .30 to .35. (The lower the number, the better) The 3rd number (visible light transmittance) for that window will be .55 to .60 -- the higher the number, the more light will pass through.

After that, you will be comparing warranties (and the company that is backing the warranty) and price.

Compare apples to apples. I doubt that it gets cold enough in Philly to warrant adding argon. (Below zero for days on end during the winter?) Grids or no grids, and if yes, what style?? You can get them in the typical rectangular pattern like every has them, or go with perimeter grids, or even fancier patterns. And they don't have to be white -- they can be brass, glass, ... And lots of different sizes and designs. I doubt that you'll be going with grids in the kitchen window, unless you are doing so to match the rest of the windows on that side of the house. But whatever options you decide on, be consistant with them when you are comparing prices from one mfgr. to the next.