Vinyl Window Problem
#1
Vinyl Window Problem
Well, I just picked up a Vinyl Window Horizontal Slider I had special ordered to fit my 26 3/4" x 26 3/4" opening. I told these folks that the measurements were of the opening size ONLY, which is concrete and leaves no room for error, and relied on them to order the window with the appropriate dimensions.
So my window I picked up is EXACTLY 26 3/4" x 26 3/4" and it looks like it is too tight of a fit for the opening...
So my question is: Am I missing something here? I thought the window had to be manufactured a little smaller than the exact size of the window opening to allow for proper installation, like 26 1/4" x 26 1/4"???
Or should I just get a rubber mallet and try and pound the window into the opening?
Thanks in advance for the help!
So my window I picked up is EXACTLY 26 3/4" x 26 3/4" and it looks like it is too tight of a fit for the opening...
So my question is: Am I missing something here? I thought the window had to be manufactured a little smaller than the exact size of the window opening to allow for proper installation, like 26 1/4" x 26 1/4"???
Or should I just get a rubber mallet and try and pound the window into the opening?
Thanks in advance for the help!
#2
Well, buddy, You're TOAST 
( ahahahahaha.....couldn't resist )
Replacements can be ordered two ways....either EXACT SIZE or Opening Size.
With Exact, you get what the name implies.....or as close as they will build it to that.....some companies only build to the nearest 1/4", and other odd things, but the ones I use build to the nearest 1/8"......I ALWAYS order EXACT because I want a good fit....in your case I'd have submitted the order as 26 5/8" on the sides and that 1/8" less would have given a good fit and a caulk space. On the height, I'd have cut it about a 1/2" and used the "idot cap" ( head expander pc ) that comes with them. I normall DON'T use it, but in the case of those little basement windows, I do, since they are hard to swing into the opening space with that little size IF they are somewhat shorter.....then the expander would take up the gap.
Ordering opening size, companies will cut 1/2 or so ( depends on the company).......I never do this, because in your case, THAT would have been way too much......they do this "assuming" you have a standard wood window with stop on the inside to hide the gap......which just like in your case, there is NOT, and the "cut down" size would be to small.
The PROBLEM here is you didn't know the above ( and whoever you bought it from ......wait......let me guess.....it was a "bigbox" store like Lowes, HomeDepot,etc didn't tell ya that....am I right ?.........anyway, THEY didn't bother to give you an education), so you didn't know HOW to order the window......which by the way, is THE most critical part of replacements IMHO....
The SOLUTION is:
Look at the outside edge of the new window frame......IF it has a bit of a flange sticking out from the frame, you can take a ultility knife and trim some or all of this off. Welded windows tend to have less of a flange ( the poor old "mechanical" windows everybody is Sooooo down on had a nice trim flange to help out in situations like this.......reason #178 WHY a mechanical window is better than a welded......but that's a whole new rant )
Some welded have NO trim flange at all....in which case, I'd take the sashes out, and use the rubber mallet.......what the heck....you've already bought the window, it's either gonna work or be a dust collector after you Re-Buy one
Small frame like that is fairly stout....if your opening isn't too out of square, it may work. Once you put the sash back in, if it will lock and operate with no problem, you're OK......if not, it's new window time.....again......

( ahahahahaha.....couldn't resist )
Replacements can be ordered two ways....either EXACT SIZE or Opening Size.
With Exact, you get what the name implies.....or as close as they will build it to that.....some companies only build to the nearest 1/4", and other odd things, but the ones I use build to the nearest 1/8"......I ALWAYS order EXACT because I want a good fit....in your case I'd have submitted the order as 26 5/8" on the sides and that 1/8" less would have given a good fit and a caulk space. On the height, I'd have cut it about a 1/2" and used the "idot cap" ( head expander pc ) that comes with them. I normall DON'T use it, but in the case of those little basement windows, I do, since they are hard to swing into the opening space with that little size IF they are somewhat shorter.....then the expander would take up the gap.
Ordering opening size, companies will cut 1/2 or so ( depends on the company).......I never do this, because in your case, THAT would have been way too much......they do this "assuming" you have a standard wood window with stop on the inside to hide the gap......which just like in your case, there is NOT, and the "cut down" size would be to small.
The PROBLEM here is you didn't know the above ( and whoever you bought it from ......wait......let me guess.....it was a "bigbox" store like Lowes, HomeDepot,etc didn't tell ya that....am I right ?.........anyway, THEY didn't bother to give you an education), so you didn't know HOW to order the window......which by the way, is THE most critical part of replacements IMHO....
The SOLUTION is:
Look at the outside edge of the new window frame......IF it has a bit of a flange sticking out from the frame, you can take a ultility knife and trim some or all of this off. Welded windows tend to have less of a flange ( the poor old "mechanical" windows everybody is Sooooo down on had a nice trim flange to help out in situations like this.......reason #178 WHY a mechanical window is better than a welded......but that's a whole new rant )
Some welded have NO trim flange at all....in which case, I'd take the sashes out, and use the rubber mallet.......what the heck....you've already bought the window, it's either gonna work or be a dust collector after you Re-Buy one

Small frame like that is fairly stout....if your opening isn't too out of square, it may work. Once you put the sash back in, if it will lock and operate with no problem, you're OK......if not, it's new window time.....again......
#3
Thanks for the reply.
Just to let you know, I purchased this window from a company that specializes in doors and windows. My mistake was in relying on the salesperson (the owner, incidently) to calculate the necessary adjustments based on my window opening measurements. I guess you just can't take it for granted anymore that someone has completed high school or otherwise sharpened their analytical reasoning skills by independent study. Oh well.
On a lighter note, I do appreciate the advice. After slicing some of the flange off from around the window, it is a perfect fit. The window company forced me to pay for this service, and I have to say they did an excellent job. Unfortunately for them, I will be disputing their coerced "slicing" charge to my VISA. Good for them that it works now, otherwise I'd have disputed the entire amount. I just don't feel it is appropriate for me to pay for their ordering error when I made it patently clear the measurement I gave was for the window opening only. I certainly will never either recommend or return to that store. The level of incompetence from these alleged "professionals" simply shocks the conscience.
I probably could've done better at a bigbox store like lowe's or home depot.
Now, that is indeed a scary thought!
Just to let you know, I purchased this window from a company that specializes in doors and windows. My mistake was in relying on the salesperson (the owner, incidently) to calculate the necessary adjustments based on my window opening measurements. I guess you just can't take it for granted anymore that someone has completed high school or otherwise sharpened their analytical reasoning skills by independent study. Oh well.
On a lighter note, I do appreciate the advice. After slicing some of the flange off from around the window, it is a perfect fit. The window company forced me to pay for this service, and I have to say they did an excellent job. Unfortunately for them, I will be disputing their coerced "slicing" charge to my VISA. Good for them that it works now, otherwise I'd have disputed the entire amount. I just don't feel it is appropriate for me to pay for their ordering error when I made it patently clear the measurement I gave was for the window opening only. I certainly will never either recommend or return to that store. The level of incompetence from these alleged "professionals" simply shocks the conscience.
I probably could've done better at a bigbox store like lowe's or home depot.
Now, that is indeed a scary thought!
#4
Well, as I said.....there are two ways to order.....and pro places will generally order exact size, so maybe that is what he was used to doing.....
The lack of your knowledge really ISN'T his fault......
On the other hand, charging you for trimming a flange which is a 3 minute operation is sorta cheesy......
As far as ordering from a bigbox.....no.....you wouldn't BELIEVE the horror stories I've seen there....and it's a dang good thing too
......I've built several houses now using the mis-measured windows from Home Depot...ahahahahaha.....I LOVE them at $50/each.....
The lack of your knowledge really ISN'T his fault......
On the other hand, charging you for trimming a flange which is a 3 minute operation is sorta cheesy......
As far as ordering from a bigbox.....no.....you wouldn't BELIEVE the horror stories I've seen there....and it's a dang good thing too

#5
Toast,
If you told them that you were giving them EXACT OPENING SIZES, they should have reduced the size of the replacement windows accordingly. That's an error on THEIR part, and they should replace the window for you at no cost.
Having said that, they are going to argue that they ordered exactly what YOU TOLD THEM TO ORDER, and that you'll just have to eat the mistake.
MAYBE, if you approach them nicely, they will order you a new (smaller) window and let you have it at cost, or maybe even split the price with you.
I would talk to them. You said one thing and they heard something else. If they will work with on the price of the new window, it's probably the best deal you are going to get. If they tell you "tough, eat it!", then you can either order the right size window from them or order it elsewhere.
If you told them that you were giving them EXACT OPENING SIZES, they should have reduced the size of the replacement windows accordingly. That's an error on THEIR part, and they should replace the window for you at no cost.
Having said that, they are going to argue that they ordered exactly what YOU TOLD THEM TO ORDER, and that you'll just have to eat the mistake.
MAYBE, if you approach them nicely, they will order you a new (smaller) window and let you have it at cost, or maybe even split the price with you.
I would talk to them. You said one thing and they heard something else. If they will work with on the price of the new window, it's probably the best deal you are going to get. If they tell you "tough, eat it!", then you can either order the right size window from them or order it elsewhere.
#6
Thanks lefty, you summarize my position precisely, and there simply was no lack of knowledge on my part. It's sad that you are also correct about how an unscrupulous vendor often fails to take responsibility for their mistakes. But that seems to be par for the course in America nowadays the bigger a company gets.
My brother runs a remodeling business in Alaska and educated me nicely about ordering windows. He advised to NOT go to a bigbox store, but rather to an outfit specializing in windows. Actually, he recommended Contractor's Supply first. Shoulda went there I guess.
But it's all water under the bridge now -- you guys are awesome help! I'm glad the window fits and I plan on installing it today.
Q: On horizontal sliders, does it matter which side is installed up? And may the window be installed flush with the finished interior wall in which I plan to tile?
My brother runs a remodeling business in Alaska and educated me nicely about ordering windows. He advised to NOT go to a bigbox store, but rather to an outfit specializing in windows. Actually, he recommended Contractor's Supply first. Shoulda went there I guess.
But it's all water under the bridge now -- you guys are awesome help! I'm glad the window fits and I plan on installing it today.
Q: On horizontal sliders, does it matter which side is installed up? And may the window be installed flush with the finished interior wall in which I plan to tile?
#7
Toast,
Windows are like cars -- there is only one side that goes down!!!
Install the window so that the weep holes are on the bottom! The results of installing it upside down are going to be just about as bad as trying to drag your car around on it's top!! (If you want it to slide in the other direction, you'll have to order it to do so -- OX rather than XO!)
(Are you SURE you wouldn't be better off just throwing this thing away and starting again???)
Installing it flush with the interior wall isn't a problem AS LONG AS YOU GET IT SEALED OUTSIDE, and provide drainage for the rain water to run off.
I deal with a couple of glass shops around here, and sometimes I say one thing and they hear something else. (Or maybe I only THOUGHT that's what I said??) They work with me and I work with them on the mistakes -- nobody gets mad, nobody points fingers, ... but then, i'm a $50K a year customer for each of them -- they DON'T want to make me mad!! And I have it good with them too -- I'm getting windows for just a few dollars over cost -- I don't want to make them mad either! You don't have that advantage -- you are just a customer, and once the 12 or 17 windows in your house are replaced, they won't be seeing much of you.
I understand your brother's advise to avoid the big box stores. Customer service there is pretty much just lip service, and the advise you get is usually pretty questionable (and I'll trade you HD bills any day!!)
If you can get the window to fit, use it. Otherwise, reorder one that is 1/4' narrower and 1/8" shorter (pretty sure you'll be going elsewhere to do that!!) and write it off as a lesson learned.
Windows are like cars -- there is only one side that goes down!!!
Install the window so that the weep holes are on the bottom! The results of installing it upside down are going to be just about as bad as trying to drag your car around on it's top!! (If you want it to slide in the other direction, you'll have to order it to do so -- OX rather than XO!)
(Are you SURE you wouldn't be better off just throwing this thing away and starting again???)
Installing it flush with the interior wall isn't a problem AS LONG AS YOU GET IT SEALED OUTSIDE, and provide drainage for the rain water to run off.
I deal with a couple of glass shops around here, and sometimes I say one thing and they hear something else. (Or maybe I only THOUGHT that's what I said??) They work with me and I work with them on the mistakes -- nobody gets mad, nobody points fingers, ... but then, i'm a $50K a year customer for each of them -- they DON'T want to make me mad!! And I have it good with them too -- I'm getting windows for just a few dollars over cost -- I don't want to make them mad either! You don't have that advantage -- you are just a customer, and once the 12 or 17 windows in your house are replaced, they won't be seeing much of you.
I understand your brother's advise to avoid the big box stores. Customer service there is pretty much just lip service, and the advise you get is usually pretty questionable (and I'll trade you HD bills any day!!)
If you can get the window to fit, use it. Otherwise, reorder one that is 1/4' narrower and 1/8" shorter (pretty sure you'll be going elsewhere to do that!!) and write it off as a lesson learned.