Window Replacement Question - Brick exterior & drywall interior
#1
12-11-03, 08:26 AM
Window Replacement Question - Brick exterior & drywall interior
I am hoping to get some general instructions on a window replacement for my particular exterior/interior. I have a ranch style one story house with a brick veener exterior and 1/2' drywall interior with a 4" depth to the brick veener on the sides and top with a 3/4" wood sill on the bottom. The current windows are single pane alimunum. My main reason for the replacement is reducing traffic noise and 2nd is looks while 3rd is effeciency (not a long term house).
I want to pull the entire window aliminum window out. I did this with a small bathroom window while I was remodeling the bathroom and used a crow bar to pop the nail fin and a hack saw, fairly easy, but was a small 2'x3' window. What I was thinking was cutting caulk from the window on the interior and pull the window out from the exterior. Then I was thinking I could use a rotozip type tool to cut away the 1/2-1" of drywall and wood window sill to fit a new construction vinyl window since they are wider than the current window. With the drywall and wood sill cut away I could buy a new construction or replacement window to the size of the exterior and cut away the vinyl nail fins on the new construction window.
My other option was to pull the exterior window and get replacements to the interior size and put the window over the drywall/sill. Problem is what do I use to fill the 1/2-3/4" gap on the exterior?
Sorry for the long message. I really appreciate and help, and keep up the good work on this site.
I want to pull the entire window aliminum window out. I did this with a small bathroom window while I was remodeling the bathroom and used a crow bar to pop the nail fin and a hack saw, fairly easy, but was a small 2'x3' window. What I was thinking was cutting caulk from the window on the interior and pull the window out from the exterior. Then I was thinking I could use a rotozip type tool to cut away the 1/2-1" of drywall and wood window sill to fit a new construction vinyl window since they are wider than the current window. With the drywall and wood sill cut away I could buy a new construction or replacement window to the size of the exterior and cut away the vinyl nail fins on the new construction window.
My other option was to pull the exterior window and get replacements to the interior size and put the window over the drywall/sill. Problem is what do I use to fill the 1/2-3/4" gap on the exterior?
Sorry for the long message. I really appreciate and help, and keep up the good work on this site.
#2
12-11-03, 01:51 PM
Awesome post to my question. Follow up:
"Personally, I make a cover out of aluminum coil stock in the color to match the windows, but you have to have a sheet metal brake ( and the knowhow) to do this……this, BTW, is what separates the pros from the amateurs…"
Since I am clearly an amateur at replacing windows I am at a loss for what, where or how to get and install "aluminum coil stock" (let alone knowing what sheet metal brake is) assuming I will be getting white vinyl windows.
Since one of my main concerns is reducing noise I am afraid fiberglass insullation will not be adequate.
Is this a possible solution, get 1/2" thick treated wood and nail that around the window after taking the aliminum out and before installing the new window? I could prime before the install then paint the exposed portion (ranch style house, 2 ft overhang so windows are not exposed to rain. I am sure I would have to rip the boards to get the right depth which is not a big deal. Any additional thoughts?
"Personally, I make a cover out of aluminum coil stock in the color to match the windows, but you have to have a sheet metal brake ( and the knowhow) to do this……this, BTW, is what separates the pros from the amateurs…"
Since I am clearly an amateur at replacing windows I am at a loss for what, where or how to get and install "aluminum coil stock" (let alone knowing what sheet metal brake is) assuming I will be getting white vinyl windows.
Since one of my main concerns is reducing noise I am afraid fiberglass insullation will not be adequate.
Is this a possible solution, get 1/2" thick treated wood and nail that around the window after taking the aliminum out and before installing the new window? I could prime before the install then paint the exposed portion (ranch style house, 2 ft overhang so windows are not exposed to rain. I am sure I would have to rip the boards to get the right depth which is not a big deal. Any additional thoughts?
#3
12-11-03, 02:17 PM
The 1/2" wood idea is good....the problem you "may" run into is there may be a bit of variance in the gap......somtimes the sheetrock is doubled and different things depending on how close the rough openings were on the original install.
What you could also do is just install a narrow wood trim over the top of the window edges after you install them. A few 6 or 8p trim nails angled back to the wood and some caulk on the window and brick meeting areas would do it.....
Aluminum trim coil stock comes in 24" wide by 50' long rolls.
A brake is a bending tool that allows you to form the metal with various bends in about any shape you can think up. In the case of what you're doing, I make a strip on the sill and sides about 2" wide and bend a crease in about the middle.....evision a pc of paper folded at about a 45 degree angle. This I attached to the window with caulk and pop rivets. The other edge flanges out to the brick. I like the trim coil option because it's quick and does away with any outside painting.
I have another ditty on trim coil and how to bend, but it's geared more toward covering existing wood exterior trim like wood windows have......Go around and sorta look at similar windows that have been replaced by pro's and see what they did......I personally never had a original idea ( well...maybe a few
), but I can COPY with the best of 'em.....ahahahaha
By the way, the fiberglass has little or nothing to do with your sound control.....you'll get that from the window itself. Here's an interesting "experiment" when you install them. Screw the window in the hole, then go let something out in the yard, like a lawn mower, a car engine, or even a heat pump/AC outdoor unit running. Run a bead of caulk around the inside between the window and the sheetrock. You can actually hear the reduction in the noise as you finish up the bead !!
What you could also do is just install a narrow wood trim over the top of the window edges after you install them. A few 6 or 8p trim nails angled back to the wood and some caulk on the window and brick meeting areas would do it.....
Aluminum trim coil stock comes in 24" wide by 50' long rolls.
A brake is a bending tool that allows you to form the metal with various bends in about any shape you can think up. In the case of what you're doing, I make a strip on the sill and sides about 2" wide and bend a crease in about the middle.....evision a pc of paper folded at about a 45 degree angle. This I attached to the window with caulk and pop rivets. The other edge flanges out to the brick. I like the trim coil option because it's quick and does away with any outside painting.
I have another ditty on trim coil and how to bend, but it's geared more toward covering existing wood exterior trim like wood windows have......Go around and sorta look at similar windows that have been replaced by pro's and see what they did......I personally never had a original idea ( well...maybe a few
), but I can COPY with the best of 'em.....ahahahahaBy the way, the fiberglass has little or nothing to do with your sound control.....you'll get that from the window itself. Here's an interesting "experiment" when you install them. Screw the window in the hole, then go let something out in the yard, like a lawn mower, a car engine, or even a heat pump/AC outdoor unit running. Run a bead of caulk around the inside between the window and the sheetrock. You can actually hear the reduction in the noise as you finish up the bead !!
