Fixing old doorknobs

Andersen windows - moisture between window panes may be defective due to manufacturing problems. Reference: [url]http://doityourself.com/windows/condensationpanes.htm[/url] titled "Condensation Between Window Panes" I recommend that the item at [url]http://doityourself.com/windows/condensationpanes.htm[/url] in the DoItYourself.com How-To Tips section be modified as the problem regarding condensation between window panes in Andersen windows may actually be a result of Andersen manufacturing problems that Andersen experienced from 1989 to 1992. In addition, the comment on warranty in the response is not correct - as, from the Andersen website, it states that Andersen products feature a 20-year limited warranty on glass and a 10-year limited warranty on non-glass parts. I had a similar problem with my Andersen windows manufactured in 1990. I will try to summarize my understanding on the situation. I was told that Andersen double pane windows manufactured between 1989 and 1992 had manufacturing problems and that the warranty would cover these problems. I do not believe that a public announcement was made to notify consumers of this problem, nor could I find any comment about this specific problem on their web site. Moisture between the panes is a first indication of the problem caused by the seal leaking. The gap between the window panes will gradually reduce to a point where the panes actually touch each other causing one of the panes to crack extensively. I have had 3 separate windows break in this fashion - in 1998, 1999, and 2003. Andersen customer service provided to me a replacement sash in 1998 and another in 1999 for self installation. I was not told by Andersen at these two times, that there was a manufacturing problem to their windows manufactured between 1989-92 that would/could affect all my windows. Prior to contacting Andersen regarding the 3rd window breaking, an offhand inquiry at a homeshow to the Andersen representative made me aware of this Andersen manufacturing problem. So, my inquiry to Andersen customer service regarding the 3rd window breaking was expanded into the general manufacturing problem that I learned about at the homeshow. At this time, I was told about the general nature of the problem and they scheduled a window repairman to test all my windows and repair them, if a problem existed. The window test was accomplished by a small laser tool that measured the gap between the window panes. If the gap was something like 6mm or lower, they drilled a hole with a special drill bit into the window seal, let it open for about 10-15 minutes to equalize the pressure in the gap, and then closed the hole in the window seal with a special rivet, and filled the hole in the wood with caulking. I believe that the window gaps are approximately 10-11 mm when manufactured/installed. The gaps between the window panes contained argon gas. A total of 60% of my windows were defective - most repaired as described above. The 3 windows that actually broke were replaced, and 3 circle top windows are defective but cannot be repaired and must be replaced. I found it interesting that most of the defective windows are on the sunny-side of the house. I would recommend that individuals with Andersen windows manufactured between 1989-1992 who experience moisture problems call Andersen Customer Service to explore getting their windows tested and repaired if necessary. The Andersen Customer service has been very helpful in getting my problem fixed. Andersen website for window condenstation problems is [url]http://www.andersenwindows.com/homeowner/index.asp?p=10520100[/url] I sent this note earlier to [email]forums@doityourself.com[/email] email address but received no response. I am new at this forum and don't know how to get the attention of the person responsible for the DoItYourself.com How-To Tips section. I think the How-To Tip response on this topic needs corrected/enhanced.

I have a door opening into my bsmt which is roughly 37" wide. The material is cinder block. My question is "Can I install a 34" wide steel door and just attach the jambs to the cinder block or do I NEED to frame it out with a 2x4 ? I would like to make it as wide as possible. Thanks Joe