Re: Lintel over Slider Opening


  #1  
Old 01-06-04, 12:56 PM
bubba01
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Re: Lintel over Slider Opening

When my house was built in 1975 they used only a 2x10 doubler attached to the exterior header plate(where the joists run to) and runs out about 12" on either side of the concrete slider opening walls in the basement as the support lintel. The sliders are original and now need replacement. I'd like to add support above the replacement slider and my opening block to block is only 74 1/2 " Repacement sliders are 71 1/2" so even if I use a PT 2x6 I have only 1 1/2" on either side to support my new lintel and hope to god the concrete walls are plumb. Any suggestions? The floor above all this is not going anwhere but has a bounce I'd like to get rid of. Thanks in advance for taking a read on this!

Regards,

rich
 
  #2  
Old 01-06-04, 02:32 PM
Tn...Andy
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Hey Rich !

OK....your joist run perpendicular to the door.

You have a "mud sill" laid flat on top the block ( yes ? )and the joists run on top that and on out.

At the end of the joists, there is a box sill of the same size as the joists (2x10) running perpendicular to the joist ends from one end of the house to the other.

Now, IS it doubled over the door opening ??



And, how much room do you have from the top of the door and the under side of the mud sill ?
 
  #3  
Old 01-07-04, 05:15 AM
bubba01
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Hi Andy:

Kinda cold again this morning compared to the warm spell last week!

Now, IS it doubled over the door opening ?? Yes, and the doubler runs about 8" top of the mud plate either side and over the concrete block. Don't have the upper dimensions, right now, but the object is to provide more of a header support before I drop in a Patio door and close it up. My Florida buddies recommend chopping a half block out of both sides and pot (with cement?) a steel I-beam in.

Regards,

rich
 
  #4  
Old 01-07-04, 06:03 AM
Tn...Andy
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Yeah it's COLD this morning......12 degrees here.......and they're talking zero tonight !

anyhow, to your problem.......


You don't need to do all that.

By doubling the outside box sill, they have in effect, created a header......ASSUMING the joists are well tied to it.

You can make headers two ways.....the "conventional" method is the header spans the opening, but is under the joists,........ but if you need, for instance, a flush ceiling area in a room, you can make a "flush" header, tying the joists into it all on the same plane.

That is what you have here.....there should be no pressure being exerted on the door top ( or whatever is above the door, but under the mudsill) now.

Going to all the work of making a "conventional" looking header will not stop the "bounce" in the floor IMHO.......

You've got 2x10 joists.....what's the span from the outside wall to the center girder ? and what center are they on ?

.....IF it's over 14' span on 16" centers or over 12' on 24" centers, there lies your problem. The solution to your bounce is too go back and double up every other or every third joist with a "sister" that is well nailed or bolted to the orginal joist.

One other point to look at......how far apart are the support posts on the center girder ? I don't like more than 10' personally and less it really better... especially IF they didn't sandwich in any plywood between the lumber.......and I'm assuming the girder IS a 3 thickness beam of 2x10......IF those last two are the case, reduce the post spacing and that will help the bounce also.
 
  #5  
Old 01-08-04, 04:42 AM
bubba01
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Andy:

You're on the "money" again. House is 28' foot wide so beams @16" on center but span almost at 14', also 44' long with three
steel column supports with 3 2X10 beams - no plywood between.

Are winters always this mean in these mountains?

Regards,

rich
 
  #6  
Old 01-08-04, 12:44 PM
Tn...Andy
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"Are winters always this mean in these mountains? "



Hah...you ain't seen NOTHING yet buddy.....wait til the snow is 3' deep

Seems too, every time the weather is warm around NewYears day, within a few weeks it's at the opposite extreme.

We moved in our house on NY Day 1985 and it was beautiful.....sunny, near 70......three weeks later, it was 25 below zero.....no bull......



On your bounce......I'd reduce the post spacing to start....looks like you're at around 13' now......I'd get that to 9-10' max, especially since they didn't plywood the girder. You may find that alone takes care of the problem. and if not, start sistering joists.


You up in NC fulltime now or is this another working vacation ?

andy
 
  #7  
Old 01-13-04, 01:07 PM
bubba01
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Hey Andy:

Nope, not full time residents yet. What do you recommend for posts? 4x4s or those standard 4" steel posts - and how the heck do you seat those? I noticed a flat plate on one side and a threaded rod on the other. Got those temporary poles also.


Regards,

rich
 
  #8  
Old 01-15-04, 10:01 AM
Tn...Andy
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If by "seat" them, you mean how do you get a non-adjustable post, like a 4x4, under the beam ?

I use a little hydraulic "bottle" jack for stuff like that....cut the post to fit exact-a-mundo, then use the jack with another shorter 4x4 to raise the beam 1/4" and slide the new post in place.

To anchor on the concrete slab, I use drill a 1/4" hole about 2" deep and use something like a 60p spike with the head hacksawed off....drill up in the post so there is couple inches up in there and just let the spike "pin" the bottom in place. That will hold it from shifting unless you bang it with a car or something.

But you can also use the steel posts with the screw adjust top....just lag screw them to the concrete and screw the top up.....those are handy if you have to correct a sag or something in the beam.
 
  #9  
Old 01-15-04, 12:02 PM
bubba01
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Thanks Andy:

I'll get to the basement beams after the kitchen counter R/R,
the patio door installs in the basement and probably that
shakey front deck.

Regards,

rich
 
  #10  
Old 01-21-04, 11:24 AM
bubba01
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Hi All:

If you're looking at this info, you should take a gander here:

http://www.hammerzone.com/archives/f.../partition.htm

Good Stuff!

Regards,

rich
 
 

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