Door Latch Problem

I believe my problem is with the top hinge because whenever my dh tightens the screws it fixes it somewhat for a bit. I have to pick up the door by the handle in order to close it, if I don't it just slams into the frame. The door is solid (very heavy) and only four years old. I think the frame is just old (the house was built in 1923) and because we put a new door on it just can't handle it.

I've read the section for fixing a door that won't latch and I want to do this:

"Tighten any lose hinge screws. If the hole is stripped and the screw won't tighten, remove the screw and drill a deeper pilot hole for a new 3-in. screw that will extend into the framing behind the jamb. Also use this approach if the screws are tight but you still need to raise the handle side of the door so the latch will engage."

But I don't understand what pilot hole is.

All advice is welcome. Thanks!

Jen

 

A pilot hole is just a smaller diameter hole drilled first so the final screw threads engage the surrounding wood. If you don't drill a pilot hole, the screws can split the door jamb when they're screwed in.

What I would suggest is to open the door and use a wedge to support the bottom edge (under the doorknob). Remove the top hinge and drill all the old screw holes out to 5/16" or 3/8". Cut short (1") pieces of 5/16" or 3/8" dowel and glue them into the newly bored holes. Use a hammer to tap them flush with the existing mortises. When the glue dries, use a Vix bit to drill new pilot holes for the screws and put the hinge back in. A Vix bit is a self centering bit that eliminates the problem of drilling the screw hole off center.

I've fixed a great many door problems like this and it always works. The dowel gives the screws something really solid to grab and they stay put.

 

Dave,

Thanks so much for the reply, I have a couple of questions and hope you can answer them. Here goes...

I got a 3/8'' drill bit from home depot. When I use it to drill out the old holes do I go into the wood as far as possible? (Does that make sense?)

The reason I have that question in my mind is because I got the 3/8'' dowels too and I'm guessing that I only glue one into each new hole. Correct? If so, is it ok if the new hole is deeper than the length of the dowel? (Does that make sense? lol)

I picked up some gorilla glue and it doesn't really have a good explanation as to how to use it in this instance, could you help me out there too? Also, how long do you think I ought to give it to dry? It says to give it 3 to 4 hours with clamping, but I can't clamp the dowels, so should I give it another 4 hours? Should I just use another glue? (lol)

Also, home depot didn't have the Vix bit, do you know where else I'd go to get one?

Thanks again for helping me out, I plan on tackling this project this weekend and couldn't have done so without your advice.

Jen

 

Hello: Bieds

The info provided is excellent. Follow it to the letter. It works.

Suggestion.
Might use wood glue instead of gorilla glue. Not sure what that glue is intended to be used for. Wood glue likely to work better.

Allow ample time to dry or the dowels might turn as the screws are turned into them. Hole depth for the dowels not a major concern but not too deep. Not much likely to be much wood frame behind the door jam.

Pilot hole must be tiny diameter. Too large does not allow enough wood for the screws to hold onto when turning it in to secure the hinge.

Once the door is mounted, if it does not close well, check the door frame striker palte on the opposite frame. May need a slight adjustment one way or the other to line up with the door knobs bolt.

If the door slightly closes when opened, shim the bottom hinge using a coin. Opposite hinge if the door self opens slightly when not latched closed.

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Take the gorilla glue back and get good old wood glue. Gorilla glue is a special glue for use in outdoor applications and it's kinda tricky to use (to say nothing of messy )

You only need to drill the holes about an inch deep - a bit longer than the hinge screws - and use one dowel per hole. It's ok if the holes are a little deeper than the length of the dowels. Just try to keep the dowels flush with the mortise. Use plenty of glue and wipe off the excess.

I got my Vix bits from a tool store (Post Tool, I think). You can do it without a Vix bit if you carefully use a nail to punch a starter hole in the dowel. Put the hinge in the mortise and use your Mark I, Mod 3 eyeball to locate the centers of the holes in the hinge plates. Tap the nail into the dowel (behind the hinge) and that should give you decent starter holes for the hinge screws. When you drive the hinge screws, keep square to the hinge plate so the screw doesn't '****'.

Come back anytime. I'm told that I'm always giving advice - whether asked or not. (Smart alecky kids!!!)

 

A good glue **should** hold up to punching the starter hole with a nail and hammer, but you might try doing this before you insert and glue the dowel in place -- in case the glue is not yet at it's full final strength when you go to punch the holes. Just make sure when you glue the dowel that the pre-punched starter hole is on the visible end.

Also, it might be less cumbersome to go ahead and drill the pilot hole in the dowel before installing it in the 3/8 hole, especially for any hinges that are located above eye-level. You'll need to hold the dowel in a vise or clamp of some sort.

 

Mark-

Predrilling the dowels only works if you can be certain that the dowel hole will be dead center in the hinge screw hole. What I'm doing is essentially replacing the wood in the jamb that the old screws have worn out. I really don't care if the dowel is centered in the old hole but it's important that the new screw hole be centered in the hinge plate hole or the hinge screws will go in at an angle and not seat in the hinge plate chamfers.

I slather on the glue when I put the dowels in and count on plenty of glue surface area to keep the dowels in place. It's never failed me yet.

The Vix bit automatically centers a pilot hole, but eyeballing the center and using a nail to make a starter hole works fine as well.

 

Dave,

Good point -- and it's pretty likely the dowel won't be dead center.

-- Mark

 

one thing to consider..


Bieds
If the door which was replaced was lighter than the current really heavy door then it might be the hinges are too small with the screws holding the hinges also being too small....Another option is to upgrade the hinges to size .5" larger...which will more than likley allow all the screws to enter solid jam space....