door not meeting door stop

Reply

  #1  
Old 07-04-04, 04:48 PM
kerri
Visiting Guest
Posts: n/a
Question door not meeting door stop

I have just replaced our old doors with new 6 panel solid core ones. I used the pre-existing jamb. One of the doors will not meet the stop at all points. The door touches the stop at the top, but gradually moves away as you go towards the floor. The door knob will not go into the striker plate without pushing on the door. I have tried putting cardboard shims behind one of the hinges. It did not change the problem. Can anyone help?
THank you
 
  #2  
Old 07-04-04, 05:25 PM
Ed Imeduc's Avatar
Member
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: Mountain Williams Missouri
Posts: 18,386
Received 0 Votes on 0 Posts
Wink

Dont know if I have this right or not. Pull the bottom pin push the door in so it hits the stop. This will tell you how much you have to move the other part of the hinge into the jam towards the stop there.Or move the hinge on the door out some.


ED
 
  #3  
Old 07-05-04, 03:09 PM
jatco's Avatar
Member
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Vancouver, BC
Posts: 1,064
Received 1 Vote on 1 Post
...That is if your hinges have removeable pins.
You're kinda on the right track, but what you did with the cardboard shims was moving your door width-wise in the frame, not front to back-wise...if thats makes sense, so the bottom part of the door isnt meeting the stop because something is not plumb....probably the door frame.
If you cant pull the hinge pin, coz are not removeable, youll probably have to move the hinge itself.. Now this is the tricky part, because of the original screw holes from the original hinge placement. If by unscrewing the bottom hinge and pushing the door close to the stop, and that does the job, you can then mark where your NEW screw holes will have to be. There may only be a very slight difference from the old holes to the new holes. If that be the case, I would fill the old holes with wood putty, let it dry good, then mark and pre-drill your new holes.
Ive had to do this before myself.
Good luck.
 
  #4  
Old 07-05-04, 05:46 PM
Dave_D1945's Avatar
Member
Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: Bay Area, CA
Posts: 1,178
Received 0 Votes on 0 Posts
Why not just relocate the stops? They're just thin (1/4") strips about 1" wide. Use a thin blade putty knife or painters 5-in-1 tool to pry them off, close the door then nail the stop into position. Piece of cake.
 
  #5  
Old 07-05-04, 06:24 PM
jatco's Avatar
Member
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Vancouver, BC
Posts: 1,064
Received 1 Vote on 1 Post
Yes.. For sure. They may be that size, then again, they may not be.
There's always more than 1 way to 'skin a cat'.
That one is easier, but then it would/could depend on the width of the stop and how much fill, sand and paint to follow up. If you have the same color paint laying around...etc, etc.
Your suggestion is easier.....
.....Or... you could always use that foam(ish) strip self-stick, weather stripping to take up the diff. and leave the old stop where it is.
 
  #6  
Old 07-05-04, 07:59 PM
Dave_D1945's Avatar
Member
Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: Bay Area, CA
Posts: 1,178
Received 0 Votes on 0 Posts
Every lumber yard I use sells stop by the mile. If the old jambs have been painted very much, I find it easier to rip off the old stop and replace it.

Of course, I rarely replace just doors anymore..........prehungs are so much easier.
 
 

Thread Tools
Search this Thread
 
Ask a Question
Question Title:
Description:
Your question will be posted in: