Steel Casement Replacement with Vinyl


Old 07-12-04, 07:14 AM
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Steel Casement Replacement with Vinyl

How the heck do you remove steel casement windows for the installation of vinyl replacements?
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Old 12-31-13, 04:44 AM
Join Date: Dec 2013
Location: usa
Posts: 3
Get rid of the old nasty AZ steelcase frames

They come out of the double red brick mortar rather easily. Plan ahead to fabricate a temporary wood window to plug opening. For a basic 26" X 53" bedroom window 3/8" plywood boardered with firing strips works pretty good (quick, cheap and easy, just 5 pieces of wood total). Don't build it first, just get the materials ready. Once constructed, the temporary wood window plug will be exactly the size of the new window you will order except for the thickness. Take careful measurements outside at several places horozontal and vertical from brick to brick on the sides, and steel header to brick window sill - top to bottom. Bricks are most likely uneven here and there. You can not use the size of the old nasty steelcase frame because it was installed before and durring the brick-up process. Masons did not worry too much about a few uneven bricks surrounding it. Temporary wood window plug will be a tad smaller in order to navagate the uneven bricks when its put into the opening from the outside. Temporary window plug also gives you comfort and takes the "hurry-up" problem away. Go inside and Use utility knife - cut the depth of the blade all around the inside of metal frame where it meets the plaster, tile, or whatever. Duct tape all the glass, at least on one side. Remove the hinged openings using a Sawsall with a fine metal cutting blade. Hinges cut easily releasing the sections of the windows that open out. Be carefull not to crush or damage the soft red bricks and exterior window sill (duct tape and cardboard for protection). Next, remove the taped up glass with rubber mallot. If you taped them good there will not be any broken glass to clean up. Stripped metal frame will now show some vertical and horozontal steel dividers. Use Sawsall and cut through at least one vertical and horozontal divider. Find the 4 pan-head machine screws (2 on each side of the metal frame), and remove them. Chip out old glazing to find them (look about 6" from the corners of the frame on the left and right sides). You have to lift the pan head as you turn the screws out because there is a loose (floating) 10/24 machine nut hidder behind them. Gently pry, wiggle, turn, turn, and they should come out eventually. These are the screws that secure the metal frame to the metal flanges that are embeded into the mortar on both sides. Next, use Sawsall to cut through the bottom rail of the metal window frame (somewhere comfortable near the center of the opening. Entire steelcase metal frame should now be wiggly and removable. Slight prying and extra care when removing frame on sides where embeded flanges are. Once the main steel frame is removed, you can tap and wiggle the steel flanges from the mortar. Next, cleanup rough opening, and re-mortar (cement mixed with fine sand) all cracks and gaps.

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