Caulking (New Window Install)


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Old 09-29-04, 02:22 AM
philmor2
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Question Caulking (New Window Install)

I’m about to install a replacement window (vinyl) this is a first for me but it seems easy enough. However I’m concerned about caulking procedures. Is it necessary/advisable to caulk the inside perimeter of the blindstop and the area where the stool meets the window frame? Not to mention between the inside stops and moldings. Seems excessive to me.. Is all this needed to also add structural stability to the window? Once this window is glued in place I’ll never be able to remove it if the need should arise. I was also advised to remove the sashes and install the frame only. However I’ve noticed the frame without the sashes is somewhat flexible if I’m off a little with the install will I be able to reinsert the sashes? They seemed very snug when I removed them. Plus if I caulk as per instructions won’t the frame be rigid which would further hinder reinserting the sashes.

Thanks phil
 
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Old 09-29-04, 06:03 AM
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2 questions , what kind of window is this ( so I can look them up )
and why would you want to remove them after install?

Caulking is very important if your instructions ( that came with the windows ) say to caulk in these places, they more than likely have a reason for it. Some of your terminology is throwing me off thats why I want to look them up.
 
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Old 09-29-04, 06:57 AM
philmor2
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Originally Posted by glasman2
2 questions , what kind of window is this ( so I can look them up )
and why would you want to remove them after install?

Caulking is very important if your instructions ( that came with the windows ) say to caulk in these places, they more than likely have a reason for it. Some of your terminology is throwing me off thats why I want to look them up.
American Craftsman -8500 Series

I don’t know that I will want to remove them after installation but I don’t even have the window in yet and am already having to replace a sash that came damaged, so who knows? Having no practical experience installing windows I would prefer not to glue them in just yet, in case I make a mistake. If everyone I talked to agreed on how to do this and the instructions jelled, there would be no problem.
The reason I ask is I was told two different stories about caulking from Home Depot personnel. Both salesmen.

Any idea about installing the frame first and then inserting the sashes?
The instructions made no mention of this (in fact the Illustrations show the window’s being installed intact) but customer service advised me to do so as we were discussing this defective sash. Also either the instruction’s are outdated or they have two mounting hole’s in the wrong place. I’ll have to call and see what gives with that. Given these two instances I have to take these instructions with a grain of salt.

phil
 
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Old 09-29-04, 07:57 AM
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OK I went and looked at the pfd file of your window. It's just a normal double hung window, also went to another website and a sales rep for your window states he wouldn't buy any of there windows unless it was 8500 or up ( so you did good there )

You don't HAVE to remove the sash, and the only places I recommend to caulk, is there I would normally on any window. Some say I caulk more than I need to , but I never have a leaker.

Caulk the sill ( bottom of window opening ) and 1 to 2 inches up.
Looking at the pdf file you have no nail fin right? if you do caulk the face of the opening.
Open the bottom sash and set in opening, shim window 3 inches up from bottom and 3 inches down from top on both sides. Check operation of window making sure it is square and you have an even reveal when you go to close it.

Hold the window about 1/8 to a 1/4 gap from closing to find this out, and shim until you have that even reveal. Screw though the window frame at the shim location. Cut your shims in an angle so none of it is exposed at the exterior. I use backer rod or non-expanding foam around the window gap before I caulk, but thats your preference. Caulk exterior with a construction grade caulking and caulk the interior with a paintable caulk.
 
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Old 09-29-04, 11:19 AM
philmor2
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Originally Posted by glasman2
..... and the only places I recommend to caulk, is there I would normally on any window. Some say I caulk more than I need to , but I never have a leaker.

First of all Thank you for taking the time to research this. It’s very much appreciated.

I take that to mean you would not caulk the inside of the blindstop is that correct?

Thanks again, phil
 
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Old 09-29-04, 01:23 PM
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Honestly I've been doing this since 1977 and I don't understand what you mean by blindstop. Different parts of the U.S use different terminologies.

If you mean the main frame on the inside, you don't have to, but I do so it looks good, no gaps, no place for dust to collect, ect.

On the pfd file I looked for anything called a blindstop and didn't see it.
 
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Old 09-29-04, 04:27 PM
philmor2
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Originally Posted by glasman2
Honestly I've been doing this since 1977 and I don't understand what you mean by blindstop. Different parts of the U.S use different terminologies.

If you mean the main frame on the inside, you don't have to, but I do so it looks good, no gaps, no place for dust to collect, ect.

On the pfd file I looked for anything called a blindstop and didn't see it.
In the American Craftsman Illustration I picked up at Home Depot the blindstop is the stop a storm window would attach to. Should be 3 and 1/4 inches from the stool I believe, the exact depth of the window.. The window would sit between the inside face of the stool and the inside face of the blindstop. They say to caulk those two faces plus the outside perimeter of the blindstop that contacts the window. Perhaps you know it by another name?

Phil
 
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Old 09-30-04, 03:54 PM
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Caulk the inside perimeter of the "blindstop", DO NOT remove the sashes when installing window. Most window come with a nylon strap around them to keep the frame in proper alignment with the sashes (it is removed after the window is shimmed & screwed).......now follow glasman2's instructions.
 
 

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