I want to install a 3' wide x 6' tall window into an existing brick wall. My concern is about how to shore up the 4" brick facing that continues above the window so that it doesn't collapse into the window opening or crack. When I am done installing the window, I'll also have installed a brick lintel to support the wall above the window. My problem is how to support it temporarily while still having room to put in the window and lintel.

The interior framing and header will not be a problem. The brick above the window opening extends upwards as part of a full gable wall. It rises only about 2' above the window on the low side and about 5' above the window on its other side.

Since this isn't a lot of brick to support, would the brick be able to support itself (running bond). If not, would supporting one or two bricks above the lintel surface be sufficient?

Thanks

 

Every time I have done a project like this I have just whipped out the old concrete saw and cut my hole. I might add that I do some serious praying. Then once my hole is cut I line the opening in the brick with a treated 2 x frame. If this doesn't float your boat, then carefully take the brick down. It doesn't sound like a huge area to rebrick, and the toughest part would be matching up the mortar. Extremely ambitious project for a DIY'er. I give it a 9.5.

 

John S,

Welcome to DoItYourself.com and the door and window forum.

Sorry, you don't just go cutting holes in a masonary wall!! The wall has to be DESINGED to have that hole in it!! Best bet is to call a masonary contractor and have him put the hole in the wall that you need. Might cost a few hundred extra dollars, but it sure beats the expense involved if the wall collapases!!!

 

I didn't answer before because I didn't want you thinking it was ok to just cut out your hole. I agree totaly with Lefty on this 1. Your taking a chance the whole wall or side of your house will fall. It needs to be looked at by someone that knows what they are doing before you do anything.

After it's looked at, you will be given options and maybe then you could do it yourself, once you know what your up aginst.

 

Yes, the central question is how to prevent the masonry wall from collapsing. What's the proper way to shore it. I've got some ideas but was wondering if this was old hat for anyone on this forum.


I'll look at a contractor quote but almost every time, I end up doing it myself. I'm already doing an 800 sq ft buildout above a garage and adjacent attice and have been doneall the framing, electrical and plumbing. (I'm adding a 2nd story guest suite that include a main access stairway, kitchen, bath, pantry, closet and great room).



As an addenda: I am also considering knocking out an exterior wall containing four closely spaced 4'X6' windows and filling the resulting 16' opening with a set of 6 folding-sliding single pane French doors. Three doors will be hinged together on each side of the 16' openting (meeting in the center), and will fold open with the door stacks protruding towards the outside of the house.

I've found some manufacturers of these systems but they are extrodinarily expensive. Does anyone know who makes hardward for exterior folding sliding door systems?

Thanks much,

John S.

 

John,

When I have a customer who wants to install a window in a masonary wall, I call in a masonary contractor to cut the hole. (I'm a General Contractor with a $2 mil liability insurance policy, and I WON'T mess with it!! Take that as a warning, a bit of free advise, or whatever.)

You want to take out four 4X6 windows AND the post between each? No problem taking out the windows. HOWEVER, what four 4' openings (with a post between each!!) have for a header, and what one 16' wide opening needs for a header are two TOTALLY different things!!!! (Those posts are there for a reason -- they are supporting your roof!) The ONLY way you are going to span 16' is going to be to TOTALLY reframe the wall. The 4 little headers will come out and you'll need AT LEAST an LVL, maybe even a glulam in their place.

You think a contractor's expensive?? How much will it cost to clean the roofing off of your living room floor???

 

Thanks for the heads up regarding the masonry 4'X6'. I'll get a masonry quote.

Regarding the 16' opening, I will be putting a suitable engineered header across. Happily, the roof line is single story across this opening so there's no masonry above to worry about.