replace basement window
#1
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replace basement window
I am currently in the process of replacing basement windows. I have the old 1960's window built into the foundation. I am going to rent a hammer drill to chisel out the cement and put in new window. Is construction adhesive sufficent to adhere 1x6 cca or do i have to use anchors or rent a power nailer?? Any other concerns? i ordered a window to fit inside the old metal but it cut off 2+ inches of glass so that why I'm going to knock out the cement. Also I live in eastarn Long island , do i have to wait until i have a couple of warm days or is it ok to do if its 40 degrees?? This may hold up my painting of walls and boxing pipes around windows, and I'm anxious to start.
thanks!
adam
thanks!
adam
#2
You can use adhesive but MUST also use mechanical fastners to anchor the window buck into the foundation!! I would'nt bother buying/using a powder acctuated nailer. Buy some Tapcon screws and screw the wood frame to the block, cheaper, faster, stronger!
Have fun
Have fun
#4
I'm assuming that your window R.O. is about 32x14? And that your foundation is cement block? If that is the case, there is usually a thick cement cap that has been poured on the bottom of the R.O. Once this is removed (with your rotary hammer / chisel) your R.O. will be 32x16.
Getting iron framed windows out is a trick. The best way I have found, is to use a giant wrecking bar and bend the top of the metal window frame down far enough so that you can cut it in half with your reciprocating saw with a metal cutting blade. Once the top has been cut, you can fold the top down and usually loosen the sides up enough to pry them out as well. If you are lucky, the bottom will come out as well. This is a real pain, because it is all set in cement. Sometimes cutting the bottom in half will help too, once you've removed enough cement that your blade will cut straight through.
A double bead of polyurethane cement caulking underneath your treated wood is a good idea to keep air / bugs out, but a few 2 1/2" tapcon screws will secure the whole thing in place. (bottom piece first, then the top will likely be nailed to the bottom of your sole plate, and fit the sides in place as snug as possible.) A 5/32" SDS bit in your rotary hammer will work spendidly to drill holes for your 1/4" x 2 1/2" hex head Tapcon screws. (5/16" hex head)
Getting iron framed windows out is a trick. The best way I have found, is to use a giant wrecking bar and bend the top of the metal window frame down far enough so that you can cut it in half with your reciprocating saw with a metal cutting blade. Once the top has been cut, you can fold the top down and usually loosen the sides up enough to pry them out as well. If you are lucky, the bottom will come out as well. This is a real pain, because it is all set in cement. Sometimes cutting the bottom in half will help too, once you've removed enough cement that your blade will cut straight through.
A double bead of polyurethane cement caulking underneath your treated wood is a good idea to keep air / bugs out, but a few 2 1/2" tapcon screws will secure the whole thing in place. (bottom piece first, then the top will likely be nailed to the bottom of your sole plate, and fit the sides in place as snug as possible.) A 5/32" SDS bit in your rotary hammer will work spendidly to drill holes for your 1/4" x 2 1/2" hex head Tapcon screws. (5/16" hex head)
Last edited by XSleeper; 01-22-05 at 05:01 PM. Reason: addition