Move knob from right to left?

Getting ready to replace metal framed windows on a brick house that was built in the '50s. I would like some suggestions on window types to use and where to purchase them. We would like slider/casement type windows most likely vinyl type windows. Please give me some suggestions, and/or how to install them

Hi, My garage and basement are both on the same level, and both have poured concrete floors and walls (4' concrete, then studs). Currently, there is a stairway from the garage to the kitchen, and there is a stairway from the basement to the kitchen, but there is no direct access from the garage to the basement. I'm thinking about putting a door from my garage into my basement office for ease of access. However, my challenge is that the garage concrete floor is 10" higher than the basement concrete floor at the location where the door would be (bottom of basement stairs). I assume the differential is caused by thicker concrete in the garage that can withstand the weight of vehicles. On the basement side, the height is 95" from the concrete floor to the Top Plates. On the garage side, the height is 85" from the concrete floor to the Top Plates. Allowing 3" for the two top plates (2 x 6's), plus 9.5" for a standard header (all the headers in the house are made from 2 x 10's), that leaves only 72.5" H for the rough opening, assuming the door sits level with the garage concrete floor (I really don't want to cut into the floor, even though I will have to cut and remove a 3' wide section of concrete wall). In addition, ordinarily, you would want to put a Sole Plate under the pre-hung door frame, and that would take another 1.5" off the height, but I think I could simply epoxy the pre-hung door frame to the concrete floor. I have no mositure issues in the garage or basement. The challenge I have is that a 72.5" H rough opening only leaves a 69.5" door. I'm no giant, but I would like a few more inches (wouldn't we all!) Since I don't want to create any height by cutting into the garage floor (i.e make a step-down on the garage side), I was wondering if I could use 2 x 4's or 2 x 6's for the header, instead of 2 x 10's. The 4 or 6 inches of height that would be saved would make a big difference, and then I wouldn't have to worry about ducking all the time. I have read that the 'rule of thumb' for headers is "one inch per foot of span", and the span here would be 4' between studs, so maybe 2 x 6's would suffice. However, this is a load-bearing wall with two story's and a roof above it so I'd definitely err on using whatever is structurally appropriate . If I could use 2 x 6's, the 4 inches of height that would be saved would make the door 73.5" H and I could probably live with that. So, my question is: is there a specific size header that is required? Also, are there any altenrate framing techniques or materials that could be used to provide the appropriate load support while at the same time providing a few extra inches of door height? (I'd willingly stud the entire space between the existing studs and door frame if that would reduce the required header size). If 2 x 10's are absolutely required, I'd be interested in hearing from anyone who has cut into their concrete floor, and/or devised an alternative solution. TIA. Regards, Henry