Door Header Size Requirement?
#1
01-26-05, 11:21 AM
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Door Header Size Requirement?
Hi,
My garage and basement are both on the same level, and both have poured concrete floors and walls (4' concrete, then studs). Currently, there is a stairway from the garage to the kitchen, and there is a stairway from the basement to the kitchen, but there is no direct access from the garage to the basement.
I'm thinking about putting a door from my garage into my basement office for ease of access. However, my challenge is that the garage concrete floor is 10" higher than the basement concrete floor at the location where the door would be (bottom of basement stairs). I assume the differential is caused by thicker concrete in the garage that can withstand the weight of vehicles.
On the basement side, the height is 95" from the concrete floor to the Top Plates.
On the garage side, the height is 85" from the concrete floor to the Top Plates.
Allowing 3" for the two top plates (2 x 6's), plus 9.5" for a standard header (all the headers in the house are made from 2 x 10's), that leaves only 72.5" H for the rough opening, assuming the door sits level with the garage concrete floor (I really don't want to cut into the floor, even though I will have to cut and remove a 3' wide section of concrete wall). In addition, ordinarily, you would want to put a Sole Plate under the pre-hung door frame, and that would take another 1.5" off the height, but I think I could simply epoxy the pre-hung door frame to the concrete floor. I have no mositure issues in the garage or basement.
The challenge I have is that a 72.5" H rough opening only leaves a 69.5" door. I'm no giant, but I would like a few more inches (wouldn't we all!)
Since I don't want to create any height by cutting into the garage floor (i.e make a step-down on the garage side), I was wondering if I could use 2 x 4's or 2 x 6's for the header, instead of 2 x 10's. The 4 or 6 inches of height that would be saved would make a big difference, and then I wouldn't have to worry about ducking all the time.
I have read that the 'rule of thumb' for headers is "one inch per foot of span", and the span here would be 4' between studs, so maybe 2 x 6's would suffice. However, this is a load-bearing wall with two story's and a roof above it so I'd definitely err on using whatever is structurally appropriate . If I could use 2 x 6's, the 4 inches of height that would be saved would make the door 73.5" H and I could probably live with that.
So, my question is: is there a specific size header that is required?
Also, are there any altenrate framing techniques or materials that could be used to provide the appropriate load support while at the same time providing a few extra inches of door height? (I'd willingly stud the entire space between the existing studs and door frame if that would reduce the required header size).
If 2 x 10's are absolutely required, I'd be interested in hearing from anyone who has cut into their concrete floor, and/or devised an alternative solution. TIA.
Regards,
Henry
My garage and basement are both on the same level, and both have poured concrete floors and walls (4' concrete, then studs). Currently, there is a stairway from the garage to the kitchen, and there is a stairway from the basement to the kitchen, but there is no direct access from the garage to the basement.
I'm thinking about putting a door from my garage into my basement office for ease of access. However, my challenge is that the garage concrete floor is 10" higher than the basement concrete floor at the location where the door would be (bottom of basement stairs). I assume the differential is caused by thicker concrete in the garage that can withstand the weight of vehicles.
On the basement side, the height is 95" from the concrete floor to the Top Plates.
On the garage side, the height is 85" from the concrete floor to the Top Plates.
Allowing 3" for the two top plates (2 x 6's), plus 9.5" for a standard header (all the headers in the house are made from 2 x 10's), that leaves only 72.5" H for the rough opening, assuming the door sits level with the garage concrete floor (I really don't want to cut into the floor, even though I will have to cut and remove a 3' wide section of concrete wall). In addition, ordinarily, you would want to put a Sole Plate under the pre-hung door frame, and that would take another 1.5" off the height, but I think I could simply epoxy the pre-hung door frame to the concrete floor. I have no mositure issues in the garage or basement.
The challenge I have is that a 72.5" H rough opening only leaves a 69.5" door. I'm no giant, but I would like a few more inches (wouldn't we all!)
Since I don't want to create any height by cutting into the garage floor (i.e make a step-down on the garage side), I was wondering if I could use 2 x 4's or 2 x 6's for the header, instead of 2 x 10's. The 4 or 6 inches of height that would be saved would make a big difference, and then I wouldn't have to worry about ducking all the time.
I have read that the 'rule of thumb' for headers is "one inch per foot of span", and the span here would be 4' between studs, so maybe 2 x 6's would suffice. However, this is a load-bearing wall with two story's and a roof above it so I'd definitely err on using whatever is structurally appropriate . If I could use 2 x 6's, the 4 inches of height that would be saved would make the door 73.5" H and I could probably live with that.
So, my question is: is there a specific size header that is required?
Also, are there any altenrate framing techniques or materials that could be used to provide the appropriate load support while at the same time providing a few extra inches of door height? (I'd willingly stud the entire space between the existing studs and door frame if that would reduce the required header size).
If 2 x 10's are absolutely required, I'd be interested in hearing from anyone who has cut into their concrete floor, and/or devised an alternative solution. TIA.
Regards,
Henry
#2
01-26-05, 02:02 PM
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idea
I don't know if this idea is acceptable by code, but, if you have access, why not put header above the top plate and use joist hangers to support the joists. You'd of course have to cut the joists back appropriately.
#3
01-26-05, 02:59 PM
Actually, the header is the least of your worries. You have to consider the door swing, a rated door and fire protection and last but not least, reestablishing the integrity of the masonry knee wall.
I think you should consult an engineer.
I think you should consult an engineer.
#4
01-26-05, 04:23 PM
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Snoonyb,
I plan on using a custom sized pre-hung steel entry door. Swing etc. is not an issue, since I've already taken that into consideration.
As for the concrete wall, my plan is to use a diamond blade concrete cutter to cut out a 3'H x 3'W section of the concrete wall. The way I see it, this doorway won't be structurally different that either of the other two doorways that were created when the foundation was poured (one doorway out of my garage, and the other is out of the basement via bulkhead). If the cut wall requires some bracing or other reinforcement or treatment, please advise.
Regards,
Henry
I plan on using a custom sized pre-hung steel entry door. Swing etc. is not an issue, since I've already taken that into consideration.
As for the concrete wall, my plan is to use a diamond blade concrete cutter to cut out a 3'H x 3'W section of the concrete wall. The way I see it, this doorway won't be structurally different that either of the other two doorways that were created when the foundation was poured (one doorway out of my garage, and the other is out of the basement via bulkhead). If the cut wall requires some bracing or other reinforcement or treatment, please advise.
Regards,
Henry
#5
01-26-05, 09:05 PM
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I dont know how your code is down there (probably never read that before on this site 
) But anytime you have an entry door going from a garage into the living space, alot of places require a concrete curb that's usually minimum of 4" high but more accepted 6". Referred to as a gas curb, this way in the even of spillage/leakage the combustible material cannot make it's way into the living quarters and/or absorb into wood based material.
With the facts you've given about your home, that is probably the reason there was never a door installed there in the first place. So now add a curb and you just lost another 6" and are down to a 5' opening LOL.
It could be a major fire hazard even with a rated door and probably will not meet code in any juristiction anywhere, so if you proceed it will be on your own concious and will prevent you from selling your home in the future should you decide to move as any inspector brought in pre-buying will notice and tag you until it's resolved.
) But anytime you have an entry door going from a garage into the living space, alot of places require a concrete curb that's usually minimum of 4" high but more accepted 6". Referred to as a gas curb, this way in the even of spillage/leakage the combustible material cannot make it's way into the living quarters and/or absorb into wood based material.With the facts you've given about your home, that is probably the reason there was never a door installed there in the first place. So now add a curb and you just lost another 6" and are down to a 5' opening LOL.
It could be a major fire hazard even with a rated door and probably will not meet code in any juristiction anywhere, so if you proceed it will be on your own concious and will prevent you from selling your home in the future should you decide to move as any inspector brought in pre-buying will notice and tag you until it's resolved.
#6
01-26-05, 10:01 PM
[QUOTE] I plan on using a custom sized pre-hung steel entry door. [QUOTE]
Then you are aware that in some areas a "rating label" is required.
That in some areas, both the door and the jamb require these labels.
That to conform to these requirements there is an integral "rated" gasket and that as a closed system it has been approved by I.C.B.O.
That a "custom steel entry door" is and does not automatically qualify for the required separation between occupancy uses.
You had expressed a concern regarding the loss of the thickness of the sill, in height.
Then you are aware that you can omit the sill and use a "rated" automatic door bottom. which also conforms to rating standards.
[QUOTE] Swing etc. is not an issue, since I've already taken that into consideration. [QUOTE]
Then you are aware that in some areas that when a door swings into and over a floor area greater than one step lower then the door bottom, a 3' wide landing is required.
[QUOTE] As for the concrete wall, my plan is to use a diamond blade concrete cutter to cut out a 3'H x 3'W section of the concrete wall. The way I see it, this doorway won't be structurally different that either of the other two doorways that were created when the foundation was poured (one doorway out of my garage, and the other is out of the basement via bulkhead). If the cut wall requires some bracing or other reinforcement or treatment, please advise. [QUOTE]
You will probably find that there is at least one and maybe two horizontal rebar besides the bond beam.
What you will not see, is that the "ways" that were included in the original construction, had two or more vertical bars in the CMU's adjacent to the opening, on each side. Also that the horizontal bars were bent, specifically lapped and tied to the vertical bars.
Were I you, I would propose to a structural or civil engineer, too remove both double top plates and install a 6x6 SS header. He will tell you what gage and length of strap to use to tie the building together. What trimmers to use and how to reestablish the integrity of the masonry wall.
.
Then you are aware that in some areas a "rating label" is required.
That in some areas, both the door and the jamb require these labels.
That to conform to these requirements there is an integral "rated" gasket and that as a closed system it has been approved by I.C.B.O.
That a "custom steel entry door" is and does not automatically qualify for the required separation between occupancy uses.
You had expressed a concern regarding the loss of the thickness of the sill, in height.
Then you are aware that you can omit the sill and use a "rated" automatic door bottom. which also conforms to rating standards.
[QUOTE] Swing etc. is not an issue, since I've already taken that into consideration. [QUOTE]
Then you are aware that in some areas that when a door swings into and over a floor area greater than one step lower then the door bottom, a 3' wide landing is required.
[QUOTE] As for the concrete wall, my plan is to use a diamond blade concrete cutter to cut out a 3'H x 3'W section of the concrete wall. The way I see it, this doorway won't be structurally different that either of the other two doorways that were created when the foundation was poured (one doorway out of my garage, and the other is out of the basement via bulkhead). If the cut wall requires some bracing or other reinforcement or treatment, please advise. [QUOTE]
You will probably find that there is at least one and maybe two horizontal rebar besides the bond beam.
What you will not see, is that the "ways" that were included in the original construction, had two or more vertical bars in the CMU's adjacent to the opening, on each side. Also that the horizontal bars were bent, specifically lapped and tied to the vertical bars.
Were I you, I would propose to a structural or civil engineer, too remove both double top plates and install a 6x6 SS header. He will tell you what gage and length of strap to use to tie the building together. What trimmers to use and how to reestablish the integrity of the masonry wall.
.
