Replacement window sizing
#1
Replacement window sizing
HELP. I'm having all my windows replaced today and so far, the gaps on all sides seem to be excessive. The installers are using what I think is a huge amount of caulking to fill the gaps. Is there an acceptable gap, something like 1/4" of an in on all sides? It looks more like 3/8" of an inch and they act like I'm being too picky. HELP... what is acceptable? Thanks.
#2
1/4" gaps are normal. I'm assuming you have some sort of trim that is going to cover the window edge, so even if it's a 3/8" gap, if it gets covered up in the end, it really doesn't matter.
#3
Replacement windows gap
Thanks for taking the time to reply. I'm presently not worried about the cosmetic aspect of the job. I'm concerned about the energy efficiency. I'm paying out the wahzoo for LoE glass, Argon gas windows to save on utilities. Caulking has an R-value of zipola. I do know that the more gap you have, the less efficiency you have. I, too, was thinking 1/4" looked better. The salesman and installers just want to get the windows off their truck and slapped on your house. I was correct in thinking 2-3 tubes of caulk around each window was an indicator of shoddy measuring. Thanks, again.
#4
I may be stepping out of bounds here, but if they're using caulk to fill the gap, yes it's shoddy. I've been called out to many homes where home owners previously had new replacement windows installed and were comlaining about drafts. 99% of the time, caulk was the weapon of choice to fill the void between the new window frame and existing jamb. I've always used fiberglass batt and I can honestly say I've NEVER been called back to one of my jobs!!!
Typically with replacement windows when I measure I try to get it so there's only approx 1/8" gap around the entire window frame. Sometimes it can go upto 3/16" or so but that's about my personal limit of gap. Reason being, 1 the outside stop your new windows will butt upto if there's a 3/8" gap per side, they're barely catching the stops which are literally what hold your windows in place, the screws they're using are just temporary means of securing the window until they insulated and the inside stop is reinstalled. That brings up another reason I like to keep mine tight. Every house used different inside stop depending on style, but more are anywhere from 1/4"-1/2" thick. So if your new window fits excessively loose-which I would say they do if there's indeed 3/8" arounf the entire frame, you may run into problems with the existing inside stop not wanting to cover the new window frame.
Not trying to cause you any more greif that will cause problems with your contractors, but in all my years I can honestly say the shaddiest installers I've come across use caulk like it's their best freind, all I have to see is a crew using that method and I know I'll never call them for any sub work. Caulking/Silicone has it's place in window installs but from expereince it's NOT to insulate the gap!
Dont judge how quickly they install windows as a matter of qualtiy either. We've been doing this for a number of years and thousands of windows installed, there are good houses that windows fly depending how the old ones come out and then there is crappy houses where it takes twice as long to replace a window, just depends on existing window design. When my helper and I are going fult tilt on a good house, we've installed on average 20 windows in 4 hours, that is completely finihsed inside the house, not included though is the mess outside we have to pick up.
Typically with replacement windows when I measure I try to get it so there's only approx 1/8" gap around the entire window frame. Sometimes it can go upto 3/16" or so but that's about my personal limit of gap. Reason being, 1 the outside stop your new windows will butt upto if there's a 3/8" gap per side, they're barely catching the stops which are literally what hold your windows in place, the screws they're using are just temporary means of securing the window until they insulated and the inside stop is reinstalled. That brings up another reason I like to keep mine tight. Every house used different inside stop depending on style, but more are anywhere from 1/4"-1/2" thick. So if your new window fits excessively loose-which I would say they do if there's indeed 3/8" arounf the entire frame, you may run into problems with the existing inside stop not wanting to cover the new window frame.
Not trying to cause you any more greif that will cause problems with your contractors, but in all my years I can honestly say the shaddiest installers I've come across use caulk like it's their best freind, all I have to see is a crew using that method and I know I'll never call them for any sub work. Caulking/Silicone has it's place in window installs but from expereince it's NOT to insulate the gap!
Dont judge how quickly they install windows as a matter of qualtiy either. We've been doing this for a number of years and thousands of windows installed, there are good houses that windows fly depending how the old ones come out and then there is crappy houses where it takes twice as long to replace a window, just depends on existing window design. When my helper and I are going fult tilt on a good house, we've installed on average 20 windows in 4 hours, that is completely finihsed inside the house, not included though is the mess outside we have to pick up.
#5
Member
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: NYC
Posts: 1,528
Upvotes: 0
Received 0 Upvotes
on
0 Posts
bad scene. Sounds like you might be paying for custom sized windows and getting stock size windows,although they all say they custom make each window If There was a way to check to make sure that I got the argon I would. I guess you can see the low E.
Replacement windows do not provide as much viewing area as your old windows and yours are providing less than they should=bad.As the caulk dries it is going to shrink and that is -you guessed it- bad. I don't think there is anywhere you could find that would say to subtract 3/4 of an inch off the side to side measurement.I can see no reason that the windows should have anything more than 1/2 0f what you have. The windows are made in 1/8" increments.
Hope they at least look good
Replacement windows do not provide as much viewing area as your old windows and yours are providing less than they should=bad.As the caulk dries it is going to shrink and that is -you guessed it- bad. I don't think there is anywhere you could find that would say to subtract 3/4 of an inch off the side to side measurement.I can see no reason that the windows should have anything more than 1/2 0f what you have. The windows are made in 1/8" increments.
Hope they at least look good
#6
Good point about window sizing. I'm not running down your windows, but what I have found that using my top end window suplliers the windows will be made exactly as you want, just give the the measurement and it's done. The lesser brands usually go in 1/4's. I've dont alot of work for landlords that want to spruce up the house but not stick any money into it....like alot of homeowners LOL!! Anyways, the cheaper Wenco brand is usuallythe window of choice, but with these you give the them the tight RO and they automatically subtract 1/2" off the side and 1/4" off the top, which can make for some big gaps if your not careful, I've tried to compensate and give them bigger false measurements, but the fact they can only go in 1/4" increments really screws everything up.
That is one bad thing about replacments is losing the glass area, but many times especailly if the home owners opts for the standard white interior, that bright frame gives an illusion of not to have lost any glass. Pro- and Cons to both, mainly comes down to price and labor, I charge alot more to install wood windows where we pull out the entire old frame becasue of all the extra work that goes into reinstalling and refinishing them, that in itself for budget is what turns alot of people onto replacements.
I'm sure once it's said and done you'll be happy. But I will warm you, if you got suckered into the high pressure sign contract now for this one time savings, you've been had and will be on the bottom of the list should a problem arise. If you paid for these windows oout of your pockets, then you will still have a reamining balance left to pay after job completion. Make DARN SURE your happy with the install. It's alot easier to get those kinda people to fix problems now while you still owe them money than it is after you've paid them off. I've seen that scenario played out waay more times than I can think of.
That is one bad thing about replacments is losing the glass area, but many times especailly if the home owners opts for the standard white interior, that bright frame gives an illusion of not to have lost any glass. Pro- and Cons to both, mainly comes down to price and labor, I charge alot more to install wood windows where we pull out the entire old frame becasue of all the extra work that goes into reinstalling and refinishing them, that in itself for budget is what turns alot of people onto replacements.
I'm sure once it's said and done you'll be happy. But I will warm you, if you got suckered into the high pressure sign contract now for this one time savings, you've been had and will be on the bottom of the list should a problem arise. If you paid for these windows oout of your pockets, then you will still have a reamining balance left to pay after job completion. Make DARN SURE your happy with the install. It's alot easier to get those kinda people to fix problems now while you still owe them money than it is after you've paid them off. I've seen that scenario played out waay more times than I can think of.