I have a house that was built in 1950 with poured concrete foundation. I am looking to replace a rotting metal window in the basement that looks like it was built in with the foundation.

My first question is what's the simpliest way to remove this rotting metal window from the foundation? It seems to chip off rather easily when jabbed with a large screwdriver in the most rotted place. I was thinking of using a reciprocating saw to cut the frame where it's protruding out from the foundation and leave the rest imbedded.

Second question is which would be simplier - new construction or replacement window? I was thinking I would need to frame out the opening with pressure treated wood (2x10). I'm not sure if new or replacement slider window best covers the wood frame from view from the outside? Do both types of windows come with flanges or is this something I need to purchase separately?

 

A poured foundation? Wow. Sorry to hear that. It will be a lot of work to get the old iron frame out, I'm afraid, unless the mortar is really weakened. Are your windows surrounded by mortar on all 4 sides, or is there wood above the window? If there is wood above the window, that's generally where I start to tear out. Use a big wrecking bar to bend the top down, then cut it in half with the reciprocating saw. Once it's cut in half, you can usually bend them around and start to pry the sides loose somewhat. Use the wrecking bar to get behind the steel lip and pry. Often, the sill consists of a poured mortar cap which will usually break off with a rotary hammer & chisel bit, but in your case, it might all be solid cement.

Best advice I can give is to try prying the steel up (top and bottom) with the wrecking bar until it clears the cement, then cut it in half with the saw.

Depending how nice of a cement opening you have, you might be able to get a custom sized replacement window that will just fit in the opening- you can attach it to the opening with cement screws, and either caulk the outside with a good polyurethane caulking that will stick to cement, or trim the outside with a blind stop made from treated wood. The biggest concern will likely be the bottom of the opening, since it needs to shed water.

If you crack some cement that is going to show, I've found that hydraulic patching cement (sold in powdered form in quarts or gallons) seems to work pretty good for that sort of thing, since it sets up fast!

You certainly could frame the opening with treated 2x, but it will make the opening a lot smaller, and since basement windows are already small, sometimes that's not desirable. If you do go with a nailing fin window you'll have to cover the nailing fin with some sort of trim. Not a big deal, but something to think about.

 

XSleeper -
the mortar is in really good shape, which is great for keeping the basement dry but may be a nightmare for the window swap. The bottom and two sides are definitely mortar but the tap is obscured by some wood so I don't know 100%.

Is it a bad idea to only cut out the exposed portions of the metal window - meaning leave the rest embedded in the foundation? I wanted to save myself some work and not messing up the opening which is rather square now.

My reason for framing the opening with wood is to make it easier to square and level since cutting with the reciprocating saw may not be entirely clean. I was planning on putting in a groove/channel in the wood to let any uneven cutting nestle inside the wood since the window is less than an inch thick. The window opening before adding framing is decently large at 25 x 56.

 

Yeah, I think that's a bad idea. I'm guessing that even though it will be a bear to get the steel frame out, you will be miles ahead going that route. I pity the man that would try to cut out the metal frame with a saw, and leave the rest in the cement. Then again, you can see it, and I'm just imagining it. But I've torn out hundreds of steel windows set in cement, and haven't come across one that's beat me yet.

If you do try to cut out the frame, you'll go through 100 reciprocating blades. You might be better off renting a large grinder, and use an abrasive wheel to cut through the frame. You could use the abrasive wheel to grind the metal down flat with the cement.

Worst case scenario is, get someone with a portable acetylene torch to come and cut the frames out. We did have to do that once on a county courthouse. Then if it's still not smooth enough, you just have to grind it a little.

A grinder could also help loosen the cement around the window frame if you decide to try to take the frame out, which is what I'd still recommend. I'd bet the steel frame only goes back into the cement 1", and you could notch the cement with a grinder & cement blade, and weaken it enough that it should come right out.

I wouldn't worry too much about ruining the cement a little around your frame, since it should all be covered up either by the window or by your 2x. You just don't want to blow a big chunk off the face of the foundation!

Help me picture exactly what kind of metal basement window you have. Is it a hopper that latches on top and hinges on the bottom? Or does it hinge on the top and have a catch so that it will stay wide open when it's horizontal? And the frame which is embedded in the cement... is it quite rusty, and looks similar to an angle iron? Or is it more box shaped, perhaps painted grey, and sound like it might be hollow inside?

 

I think it's a hopper that's been heavily painted over and no longer opens. I see raise spots which I assume are hinges (heavily painted as well) that are on the bottom. There are three panes of glass separated by metal grids. The middle glass pane was removed and a tiny air conditioner suck through the glass and duct taped around the opening. The metal appears flat and chips away quite easily from the exterior. I would estimate it's no thicker than half inch. The rust seems to be more on the inside and rusting outwards? The window was original to the house.

I'm leaning more towards your recommendation of prying out the frame as it's good information to learn they may only be set in about an inch. I want to do this myself, so the blow torch is out but grinder may be possible. So right now it sounds more like a two day job for a novice like me.

 

the best part about doing it yourself is that you can take as many breaks as you want to!

good luck!