Help installing vinyl replacement windows.
#1
04-30-05, 05:37 AM
Help installing vinyl replacement windows.
My parents want to get vinyl replacement windows for their house and they want me to install them. While I have done construction and remodeling before I have never replaced windows using the vinyl replacement windows.
Are there any websites or books I can use to learn how to install them properly?
They have double hung wood windows currently. The wood frame and trim is in good condition so they do not want it disturbed. I have looked at the windows and it just a matter of removing the existing sashes and window tracks and sliding in the replacements, but I need to know how to make them weathertight.
Thanks.
Are there any websites or books I can use to learn how to install them properly?
They have double hung wood windows currently. The wood frame and trim is in good condition so they do not want it disturbed. I have looked at the windows and it just a matter of removing the existing sashes and window tracks and sliding in the replacements, but I need to know how to make them weathertight.
Thanks.
#2
04-30-05, 06:41 AM
Group Moderator
Cybercecil,
You're right- retrofit installations are simply a matter of removing the old sashes and tracks, and sliding the new replacements in. There's just a few things you need to know.
First, you need to determine whether the new windows will be installed from the inside or the outside of the home. If their windows have a removable stop on the inside, then you will install them from the inside. But if there is no removable stop (because the stop is part of the jamb extension, which the casing is nailed over the top of) then you will have to cut off the outside blind stop with a reciprocating saw, install the windows from the outside, and install a new blind stop. (bad way to do it if you don't plan on wrapping the outside with aluminum trim coil, and planned on painting the exterior trim. The reciprocating saw will scar up the brickmould pretty good.)
Since you are going to be putting them in, you should be interested in making sure they get windows that are the right size. I'd verify their measurements first- measuring on the inside, and on the outside just to double check the measurements. Old sideload windows usually require a 1/2" x 3 1/4" plywood filler on one side of the jamb once you've gutted the old window, so that's one reason to check the brickmould-brickmould measurement on the outside as well. If the window opening is, for example, 28 x 45 3/4, an ideal replacement window size would be 27 3/4 x 45 1/2.
We wrap our windows with 1/4" x 3" open cell foam tape, which helps the window fit snug in the opening. We caulk the blind stop, then push the window into the bead of caulk. Some guys will put the window in, then caulk around it when they are done. It's a good idea to shim the sides of the window with straight shims (or turn one tapered shim one way, then one shim the other way so that they lay flat with each other) shimming each corner of the window, and the middle, making sure it is not spread. Then install screws through the frame. Some guys will caulk around the window again on the inside before installing the interior stops, but I never do. It will ruin the stops if anyone wants to take them off again in the future. I prefer to tuck fiberglass around the window if there are any large gaps.
At any rate, it's not very difficult, getting the window square in the old opening and making sure it is not spread in the middle are the real critical things.
You're right- retrofit installations are simply a matter of removing the old sashes and tracks, and sliding the new replacements in. There's just a few things you need to know.
First, you need to determine whether the new windows will be installed from the inside or the outside of the home. If their windows have a removable stop on the inside, then you will install them from the inside. But if there is no removable stop (because the stop is part of the jamb extension, which the casing is nailed over the top of) then you will have to cut off the outside blind stop with a reciprocating saw, install the windows from the outside, and install a new blind stop. (bad way to do it if you don't plan on wrapping the outside with aluminum trim coil, and planned on painting the exterior trim. The reciprocating saw will scar up the brickmould pretty good.)
Since you are going to be putting them in, you should be interested in making sure they get windows that are the right size. I'd verify their measurements first- measuring on the inside, and on the outside just to double check the measurements. Old sideload windows usually require a 1/2" x 3 1/4" plywood filler on one side of the jamb once you've gutted the old window, so that's one reason to check the brickmould-brickmould measurement on the outside as well. If the window opening is, for example, 28 x 45 3/4, an ideal replacement window size would be 27 3/4 x 45 1/2.
We wrap our windows with 1/4" x 3" open cell foam tape, which helps the window fit snug in the opening. We caulk the blind stop, then push the window into the bead of caulk. Some guys will put the window in, then caulk around it when they are done. It's a good idea to shim the sides of the window with straight shims (or turn one tapered shim one way, then one shim the other way so that they lay flat with each other) shimming each corner of the window, and the middle, making sure it is not spread. Then install screws through the frame. Some guys will caulk around the window again on the inside before installing the interior stops, but I never do. It will ruin the stops if anyone wants to take them off again in the future. I prefer to tuck fiberglass around the window if there are any large gaps.
At any rate, it's not very difficult, getting the window square in the old opening and making sure it is not spread in the middle are the real critical things.
#4
04-30-05, 10:10 AM
Group Moderator
Hmm, not sure what else to tell you.
Once you remove the windows, measure the distance from the window stool to the blind stop. The measurement should be 3 1/4". If it's more than that, you might get a gap in front of the window at the stool, and your interior window stops won't be going back in exactly the same place. If it's much less than 3 1/4", your window might not fit unless you remove the stool (not easy) and rip it down on the table saw. Every once in a while, you get a window opening that's like this.
I prefer not to use 100% silicone to caulk the windows in, because it will attract dust and make your caulk job look ugly. I always use caulking by OSI called Quad, and it seems to work well. You need to use a caulking that sticks to vinyl, because many caulkings will just peel off of vinyl, or at least don't hold well.
When I install vinyl DH's, after they are set into the opening, I'll open the sashes, bring them almost closed, and then examine the gap along the bottom (or top) and see if that gap is straight. You can shim the window one way or another to get that reveal straight before you put your installation screws in. Before you screw the middle, check it with a tape measure to ensure the width is the same in the middle as it is on the top and bottom. Also, measure the middle on the outside as well, to ensure you haven't pinched or spread the window on that side either.
Your windows should come with some sort of sill expander, which is used to cover the gap underneath the window. Since the vinyl window will most likely be flat on the bottom, and your window sill is sloped, you need a piece to cover up this gap- the sill expander. If it's the kind that snaps onto the window from the outside, this will be the last thing you do. Push some fiberglass under the window, cut the sill expander to the right length and width, then snap it on, using a block of wood and a hammer. Other sill expanders are shaped like an "L" and are installed before you put in the window, and the window sets on top of them. Just depends on what kind of window you get. Pella's replacement windows have a sill expander that goes on the bottom of the window first, then once you've installed it, you push it down to meet the sill. At any rate, you can run a nice bead of caulk around the entire perimeter of the window once you're all finished. Just be sure the caulk you use is paintable, won't attract dirt, and that it will stick to vinyl.
When you get the windows, feel free to ask any additional questions that might come up.
Once you remove the windows, measure the distance from the window stool to the blind stop. The measurement should be 3 1/4". If it's more than that, you might get a gap in front of the window at the stool, and your interior window stops won't be going back in exactly the same place. If it's much less than 3 1/4", your window might not fit unless you remove the stool (not easy) and rip it down on the table saw. Every once in a while, you get a window opening that's like this.
I prefer not to use 100% silicone to caulk the windows in, because it will attract dust and make your caulk job look ugly. I always use caulking by OSI called Quad, and it seems to work well. You need to use a caulking that sticks to vinyl, because many caulkings will just peel off of vinyl, or at least don't hold well.
When I install vinyl DH's, after they are set into the opening, I'll open the sashes, bring them almost closed, and then examine the gap along the bottom (or top) and see if that gap is straight. You can shim the window one way or another to get that reveal straight before you put your installation screws in. Before you screw the middle, check it with a tape measure to ensure the width is the same in the middle as it is on the top and bottom. Also, measure the middle on the outside as well, to ensure you haven't pinched or spread the window on that side either.
Your windows should come with some sort of sill expander, which is used to cover the gap underneath the window. Since the vinyl window will most likely be flat on the bottom, and your window sill is sloped, you need a piece to cover up this gap- the sill expander. If it's the kind that snaps onto the window from the outside, this will be the last thing you do. Push some fiberglass under the window, cut the sill expander to the right length and width, then snap it on, using a block of wood and a hammer. Other sill expanders are shaped like an "L" and are installed before you put in the window, and the window sets on top of them. Just depends on what kind of window you get. Pella's replacement windows have a sill expander that goes on the bottom of the window first, then once you've installed it, you push it down to meet the sill. At any rate, you can run a nice bead of caulk around the entire perimeter of the window once you're all finished. Just be sure the caulk you use is paintable, won't attract dirt, and that it will stick to vinyl.
When you get the windows, feel free to ask any additional questions that might come up.
#6
05-03-05, 01:57 PM
window installation help site
Hey - I wuz looking for some general installation information and found this link. may help.
http://www.thewindowstore.com/Installation.aspx
cheers,
-anthony
http://www.thewindowstore.com/Installation.aspx
cheers,
-anthony
