Looking for ideas to match new casing against existing door jamb and new wall surface.

History: Remodelling kitchen in 1925 house. Removed old 1x6 square (top is butt to sides) casing, demo'd lath & plaster wall, left original jamb. Installed 1/2" sheetrock - door jamb now protrudes approx 1/8" from level of wall surface. (no surprise, but now it's time to deal with it)

I see a couple options, some hokey and easy, some elegant but labor intensive, wondering which will be best or if there are others I've missed:

1. install new 1x6 to jamb level, tilt down to wall edge, will create ugly reveal where top meets sides, too hokey, ruled out.

2a. install new 1x6 to jamb level, shimming and lots of caulk at wall edge, preserves depth of casing at jamb increases at wall.

2b. preinstall 1/8" filler strip on back side of 1x6 on wall edge, install new 1x6 to jamb level, minimal caulk as necessary due to surface texturing, preserves depth of casing at jamb increase at wall.

3. route 1/8" lap groove on jamb side of new 1x6's, set casing flush with both jamb and wall, reduces depth of casing at jamb preserves at wall.

4. get out the belt sander and grind the jamb down 1/8" to meet wall, install casing in normal manner, preserves all casing depths but is tons of work and dust.

Suggestions? Thanks.

 

Use a small block plane to remove enough wood to make the jamb flush with the wall. Then you only have to belt sand a little bit (more at the bottom where the block plane won't reach).

If the trim is going to be painted, an 1/8" gap is small enough to caulk and forget it.

Next time, install a 1/8" shim behind the drywall so it comes out flush.

 

Block plane - that's the trick. I chiselled the bottoms, and also the top corners where the grains cross and the plane tended to rip the cross grain. It's a fair amount of work, but less work and far less messy than belt-sanding the whole thing. 2 doors down, 1 to go. Thanks!