Window placement in concrete block cavity


  #1  
Old 08-14-05, 05:08 AM
Mudball
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Window placement in concrete block cavity

I hope I can ask these questions correctly.
First question is would a treated 2 x 4 be sufficient for anchoring a replacement type window to in a concrete block window opening ?
Second is would you set the window all the way out toward the exterior of the opening ?
The reasons for the first question is because I would like to use a 2 x 4 so that I can install some rigid foam board (according to thickness) around the sides, top and bottom (butted up against the treated 2 x 4) of the area inside of the window. They make a snack bar counter top that is the same as the regular kitchen counter top of our (her) choice. I want to place the counter top material on the bottom part of the window cavity (on top of the foam board) and then place a nice wood trim around the sides and top in the same manner.
Reasons for the second question is because of the exterior I'm 99.99% sure will be some kind of stone (real or cultured) with possible different thicknesses. Concerned with appearance and should window be placed back toward the interior of the block cavity opening for reasons of not having to use stone corner pieces ? Or is it better to have the window back toward the interior so its not exposed to the sunlight and other element as much ? Is this just a preference thing ?
Any thoughts, advice or opinions ?
 
  #2  
Old 08-14-05, 06:47 AM
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It should work... You always want your window to be installed right on the same plane as the sheathing and building paper, (for flashing reasons) so don't build the window out in any way. Windows in stone or brick are always at least 4" back from the surface of the fascade, so that's normal- anything different would look odd.

Your difficulty will arise when you go to install your trim, I think. If your piece of countertop has "ears" on it, like a window stool, You'll want to build your trim, assemble it all, and install it as a unit after your foam is installed. If the piece of countertop doesn't have "ears", you might be better off using a pocket hole jig and screwing the whole unit to your window first, before the window is installed. These problems are created by using the 2x4 instead of something the full width of the wall. There's nothing to nail the trim to to keep it tight against the window. The same thing could be said about the casing you will put on the extension jamb you are building. If you put foam around the opening (where there is usually wood) the outside edge of your casing won't have anything to nail to.

I'm not sure if you've thought of this or if you already have a plan to deal with it.
 
  #3  
Old 08-14-05, 09:56 AM
Mudball
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Thanks XSleeper.
You have described enough for me to consult a trim carpenter when it comes time to trim the window. I thought I had a good idea but it sound as though it might not be such a good idea at all. You also made me realize that it would be better to get the full length treated board and then if necessary the board could be trimmed down or cut back if need be for the counter top piece...right ?
The full length board also allows me to set the window inward or outward as need be.
Thanks for the information and help.
I'm trying to stay ahead of the game here. My plan is to buy the new pressure treated wood ahead of time which is made without arsenic any more and let it be drying out. It seems that the industry has not converted to offering a wide range of hot dipped galvanized products for applications of the new treated wood. I've read a few sites that state the arsenic used to stay in the wood for a very long time thus preserving the wood life long benefits. Now the wood they say will still last a very long time but now that its treated with some kind of copper based chemical then apparently it leaches out at a faster rate and also is showing tests that the chemical also eats away and (rapidly ?) rusts/corrodes most all metal fasteners unless its hot dipped galvanized. I'm talking about the fasteners that hold the treated wood to the concrete block. So I'm buying my wood now and letting it dry out for the rest of the summer and winter and then find a good sealer to soak it with next summer. Thats why I wanted to make sure I had the right size in width to start with also for the other reasons.
Thanks again for your help.
 
 

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