Entry Door with sidelite alignment problem
#1
Entry Door with sidelite alignment problem
My front entry door (with 1 sidelite) has a problem. It's level and the gap on the top and side of door is even. The problem is that the top of the door (lockset side) goes in farther than the bottom of the same side, which means that the bottom of the door doesn't meet up with the weatherstripping. What type of adjustment does it sound like I need to make to make the door shut correctly?
#2
The legs of the jamb are racked, meaning they are not in the same plane. What you need to do is adjust the entire frame of the door so that the sides are both plumb... or at least "out of plumb" the same amount. It's often best if this adjustment is done at the bottom of the door, so as to keep the interior side of the jamb flush with the drywall.
If the top of the door goes in too far, that means the top latch side of the FRAME needs to go out (toward the exterior). Conversely, it would mean the top hinge side of the FRAME would need to go in. (toward the interior). If the door is already tight against the house, it's not going to go in any farther, which means you need to move the door away from the house.) And as I mentioned, these adjustments are often best done at the bottom of the door. So...
If the bottom of the door on the latch side needs to go out toward the weatherstrip farther, that means the FRAME on the bottom latch side needs to go in, toward the interior. Since that's often not possible, the same adjustment could be accomplished by knocking the bottom hinge side away from the house, toward the exterior.
If it takes 1/4" of adjustment to get the door to hit the weatherstrip plumb, you might want to make 1/8" of the adjustment on the top, and 1/8" of the adjustment on the bottom. (push out the bottom hinge side AND the top latch sides of the door frame.)
Hope this helps, and that it wasn't too confusing. It's easier to do it than to explain it.
If the top of the door goes in too far, that means the top latch side of the FRAME needs to go out (toward the exterior). Conversely, it would mean the top hinge side of the FRAME would need to go in. (toward the interior). If the door is already tight against the house, it's not going to go in any farther, which means you need to move the door away from the house.) And as I mentioned, these adjustments are often best done at the bottom of the door. So...
If the bottom of the door on the latch side needs to go out toward the weatherstrip farther, that means the FRAME on the bottom latch side needs to go in, toward the interior. Since that's often not possible, the same adjustment could be accomplished by knocking the bottom hinge side away from the house, toward the exterior.
If it takes 1/4" of adjustment to get the door to hit the weatherstrip plumb, you might want to make 1/8" of the adjustment on the top, and 1/8" of the adjustment on the bottom. (push out the bottom hinge side AND the top latch sides of the door frame.)
Hope this helps, and that it wasn't too confusing. It's easier to do it than to explain it.