replacement windows
#1
replacement windows
I've got a 40 yr old house where I would love to replace my old single pane windows.
I've been researching windows, and searching here. One thing I'm not clear about - I see many companies offering sash replacements. Is there an adavantage to replacing only the sashes? It does seem easier.
Can I even replace my entire window? My house is wood with brick veneer. I defintiely do not want to re-do any brick work. Replaceing the entire unit seems like a better way to go to me. No real reason for that bias...any thoughts
I definitely plan to do this myself. Is it easy to find a xompany willing to sell just a 1-3 windows at a time and let me do rather than trying to force their installation on me?
thanks,
Brian
Brian
I've been researching windows, and searching here. One thing I'm not clear about - I see many companies offering sash replacements. Is there an adavantage to replacing only the sashes? It does seem easier.
Can I even replace my entire window? My house is wood with brick veneer. I defintiely do not want to re-do any brick work. Replaceing the entire unit seems like a better way to go to me. No real reason for that bias...any thoughts
I definitely plan to do this myself. Is it easy to find a xompany willing to sell just a 1-3 windows at a time and let me do rather than trying to force their installation on me?
thanks,
Brian
Brian
#3
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Brian,
Entire window replacement takes some skill so as not to damage the brick work or any stone facing around the perimeter of the window when removing the old window and installing the new one. Entire windows are usually designed for the new home construction business. It can be done on existing houses but having experience and skill will go a long way. On the other hand, there are a lot of Mom and Pop business's that manufacture replacement windows usually made of vinyl. They go in easy as all you do is remove the stops and sash's and insert the replacement. But I had a problem with vinyl replacements about 4 years after installing them. Moisture started to appear between the double panes and the vinyl was started to warp at the top part of the sash. The seals must have failed on all because I could always feel the cold when I was near the windows.
So after 18 years, I finally removed them and put in wood replacement windows manufactured by "Pella". Pella boast that their window s are more air tight then other mfg. windows. That is a big plus with me. I chose the designer series with triple pane. Their windows are expensive if you need to order custom made. I paid about $600.00 per window and I installed them. In my area, at the Lowe's home center, Triple pane replacement was not available to order. So I had to order them through a Pella Store. But double pane can be ordered through Lowe's. The policy may be different in your area. If your luckey, you may find stock sizes at your home center and pay much less, like about $300.00 to $400.00 per window for double pane.
If you are looking for a good quality wood window, check out the Pella offerings and also look at Anderson. I believe that Anderson just came out with a replacement window to compete with Pella.
If you decide to go with a full window replacement, be aware that there's a chance you may have to to do some repair work on the dry wall including painting and wall papering which adds to the expense and time. Try to avoid going to the "Pella" Store as they will try to sell you everything.
Entire window replacement takes some skill so as not to damage the brick work or any stone facing around the perimeter of the window when removing the old window and installing the new one. Entire windows are usually designed for the new home construction business. It can be done on existing houses but having experience and skill will go a long way. On the other hand, there are a lot of Mom and Pop business's that manufacture replacement windows usually made of vinyl. They go in easy as all you do is remove the stops and sash's and insert the replacement. But I had a problem with vinyl replacements about 4 years after installing them. Moisture started to appear between the double panes and the vinyl was started to warp at the top part of the sash. The seals must have failed on all because I could always feel the cold when I was near the windows.
So after 18 years, I finally removed them and put in wood replacement windows manufactured by "Pella". Pella boast that their window s are more air tight then other mfg. windows. That is a big plus with me. I chose the designer series with triple pane. Their windows are expensive if you need to order custom made. I paid about $600.00 per window and I installed them. In my area, at the Lowe's home center, Triple pane replacement was not available to order. So I had to order them through a Pella Store. But double pane can be ordered through Lowe's. The policy may be different in your area. If your luckey, you may find stock sizes at your home center and pay much less, like about $300.00 to $400.00 per window for double pane.
If you are looking for a good quality wood window, check out the Pella offerings and also look at Anderson. I believe that Anderson just came out with a replacement window to compete with Pella.
If you decide to go with a full window replacement, be aware that there's a chance you may have to to do some repair work on the dry wall including painting and wall papering which adds to the expense and time. Try to avoid going to the "Pella" Store as they will try to sell you everything.
#4
thanks....I had been looking at Pella. Anderson Renewal called and wanted to come out, but I knew all they would do is give me the hard sell on them installing so I wouldn't let them come out.
I'm going to Lowe's this weekend to see what they can do...not a real fan of them or HD, but at least I can get educated....
thanks again...
I'm going to Lowe's this weekend to see what they can do...not a real fan of them or HD, but at least I can get educated....
thanks again...
#5
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Brian,
One more point I like to make. Even though I like the Pella windows. The dealers contractors did not show the proper professionalism in doing their work. The caulking and insulation were not checked for air gaps which I later found and I fix it myself the next day. A power nailer with 3-1/2 inch aluminum nails was used to nail up the finish moulding on a bay window and front entry door. The size of the nails was overkill. One of these nails came through the finished plywood at the top of the window. The contractors did not have sufficient hardware, lumber or tools to install the bay window and I had to lend them my tools. They were all out of towners and did not know where the home centers were and I had to show them. The bay window supports were not installed in an approved manner. The contractor drilled through the brick instead of mortor joints like he should have. Then after using my ratchet wrench to drive in the lag screws for the bay supports, he hammered them in to make the heads flush with the surface of the supports, making it impossible to remove the supports without destroying them.
This was done without my knowledge and was discovered the next day. I already complained to Pella and they have a repair man coming out to work on the supports.
What's this all mean? It means you might want to do the work yourself or insist that you hire your own contractors. The people that did my job did not work like professionals.
One more point I like to make. Even though I like the Pella windows. The dealers contractors did not show the proper professionalism in doing their work. The caulking and insulation were not checked for air gaps which I later found and I fix it myself the next day. A power nailer with 3-1/2 inch aluminum nails was used to nail up the finish moulding on a bay window and front entry door. The size of the nails was overkill. One of these nails came through the finished plywood at the top of the window. The contractors did not have sufficient hardware, lumber or tools to install the bay window and I had to lend them my tools. They were all out of towners and did not know where the home centers were and I had to show them. The bay window supports were not installed in an approved manner. The contractor drilled through the brick instead of mortor joints like he should have. Then after using my ratchet wrench to drive in the lag screws for the bay supports, he hammered them in to make the heads flush with the surface of the supports, making it impossible to remove the supports without destroying them.
This was done without my knowledge and was discovered the next day. I already complained to Pella and they have a repair man coming out to work on the supports.
What's this all mean? It means you might want to do the work yourself or insist that you hire your own contractors. The people that did my job did not work like professionals.
#6
Replacement windows
Have you looked at Marvin Tilt Pacs, or other sash replacements? I looked at Caradco's at HD but wasn't impressed with the fit and finish. I would put the Marvin's in, but the distance between the inner and outer stops needs to be 3&1/2"; we have 3&3/8. Still looking for a quality sash replacement.
#7
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<but the distance between the inner and outer stops needs to be 3&1/2"; we have 3&3/8. Still looking for a quality sash replacement.>
Rjwinz,
Could you not trim off 1/8 to 1/4 inch from the interior stop. When I installed my Pella double hung windows, I found that the distance between stops equaled the width of the replacement window and my windows would not tilt in because the back of window was up against the rear stop when tilted and the bottom front edge was about 1/4 to 1/2 inch away from the back edge of the sill plate. I thought that it still should slip in but I felt too much resistance. There was not enough clearance to tilt the window in as directed by the instructions. So I had to remove the sill plate to slide the window in.
Rjwinz,
Could you not trim off 1/8 to 1/4 inch from the interior stop. When I installed my Pella double hung windows, I found that the distance between stops equaled the width of the replacement window and my windows would not tilt in because the back of window was up against the rear stop when tilted and the bottom front edge was about 1/4 to 1/2 inch away from the back edge of the sill plate. I thought that it still should slip in but I felt too much resistance. There was not enough clearance to tilt the window in as directed by the instructions. So I had to remove the sill plate to slide the window in.
#8
replacing sash
I considered trimming the inner stops. However, each bottom stool would also have to be cut back somehow to allow the sash replacement window to close. Sounds like a big job, especially since we don't want to disassemble all the trim (all brick home, deep jambs, with sub-jambs, etc.)