First time homeowners, we bought a home built in the 1850s and have been learning stuff ever since! We decided to replace windows as we gut and drywall the rooms and it's been one project upon another.

When we ripped out the plaster, we also removed all the interior trim and old windows. The existing frames have no exterior "stop" as you can see from the images at http://www.brianandheather.info/house/windows.htm and the old windows rested on the metal tabs on the lower part of the frame.

I looked around at windows and decided to go with the American Craftsman from HD (I know, I know...we'll try a better one on the next window...still paid $180 for it, and we want to do 4-5 more this year). I measured the frame and then measured to see how far off plumb and level each side was and subtracted those measurements to get the size of the replacement. I went and ordered it, and six weeks later, it finally came.

I brought it home, read the instructions, and discovered that I can't follow the instructions because our frame has no "stop" to apply the caulk to seal the replacement window. So, I've decided to replace the exterior trim (4" currently) with 5 1/2" trim which I will then put caulk on and seal the replacement window against that. I've got to grind the little metal tabs off the frame first...

Anyway, here's my question...
Do I need to do any sort of exterior flashing around the new trim?? I figured I would just caulk around the outside of the trim like they did with the old trim...will that make it watertight?? Also, should I prime and paint the exterior trim before I put it on (seems to make sense)...

Any recommendations for our next replacement windows??

THANKS!!!!

 

It is unwise to rely upon caulk to stop water intrusion at the top of the windows.
Quite often on old homes, there was a wood cap that was installed above the exterior window trim. This cap was sloped & went under the bottom edge of the siding.
An aluminum drip cap can be purchased from siding suppliers. It should tuck under the siding above the window.

Definitely paint the backside of the exterior trim.
I always use scrap oil based paint for this & thin it a bit to promote saturation of the wood fibers. "Back-priming" helps to prevent cupping of trim boards that is common on the sunny side of the house.
I would not paint the faces of the new trim boards prior to installation. I would prime them though.
Filling nail holes on newly painted material is a pain due to the rubbery nature of new paint.

Be sure to use galvanized nails!

 

Excellent advice, and there is a wood cap above the trim that I'll leave. There is caulk along the top of that which is cracking, so I'll replace that.

Should I use pressure treated wood (I would think so...yes?) for the exterior trim, or will priming and painting it be enough?

Thanks!!

 

Another option for you is to use a composite brick mold. It looks like the wood kind but is not as suseptable to rot cupping and the like any home type store should be able to show you these products