Pre-hung to pocket?
#1
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Pre-hung to pocket?
I recently moved into a rental unit that has no doors (long story). The bathrooms are very small and a pocket door application would really work better than inswing doors. There is room on the adjoining walls for the frame, but does all the sheetrock have to be removed to accomplish the switch?
#2
beckypritchard, Welcome to the DIY Forums.
You have to remove the drywall to get the hardware for the pocket door in. Studs also. Lots of work for a rental unit even if the landlord approves it. I would suggest folding accordian doors. Cheaper and no demolition. Good luck.
You have to remove the drywall to get the hardware for the pocket door in. Studs also. Lots of work for a rental unit even if the landlord approves it. I would suggest folding accordian doors. Cheaper and no demolition. Good luck.
Last edited by majakdragon; 01-08-06 at 11:49 AM.
#3
LIke dragon, I can't see going through all the work you will entail for a rental unit. It is doable, but even I am reluctant to do this type retrofit unless the owner insists. If you still want to do it, post back and we can take you through step by step. Good luck and welcome to the forums.
#4
It's usually possible to demolish one side of a wall without doing too much damage to the opposite side of the drywall. Changing to a pocket door would involve installing a header over the entire opening (not just the doorway, but over the entire assembly), removing several studs, it would be pretty involved. But you might be able to leave the sheetrock inside the bathroom in place and only have to touch up a few placed where the demolition blows out nails and such.
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explanation
Thanks for your replies. Let me explain a bit further. The unit is owned by a friend who has left it up to me how to finish the space. The $ I spend will go toward the down payment for possible purchase or will be applied toward the rent so I plan to do quite a few renovations. I do bookkeeping for a contractor so labor is not really an issue either except that i would like to do as much as possible myself. I really appreciate your ideas & help.
#7
You ready? Like xsleeper said, you may not have to demolish both sides of the wall in order to install it. I have been using pocket door assemblies that come in one piece with it's own header board. If the wall you are installing it in is non load bearing, using one of these will be a snap. Take off the door, and the trim molding on both sides of the door frame. Remove the door frame, as it is probably a clamshell unit and will come apart anyway when you try to bust it out. After the trim molding is off, run a reciprocating saw down the sides and along the top of the door frame between the door frame and structural framing. This will release the door frame from the hole. Pocket doors require an 82" top to bottom clearance, so just removing the door will not provide enough clearance. The existing door header will have to be removed and the studs along the wall where the door will be recessed will have to be cut at 82" from finished floor. Make this cut the width of the door you intend to install plus 1 1/2" Remove the studs and the bottom plate. If you are good at cutting with a recip saw, you can save one sheetrock side of the wall, but it is quite often just as quick to go ahead and cut it out and be done with it, repairing it later. Install the pocket door assembly in the hole and fasten the header to the stud tails, floor and a stud you will install to hold it together at the extreme end.
Install the trolleys and attach the hardware to the top of the door per the instructions on the bag, and install the door to the trolleys.
Install sheetrock to the walls, but be sure to use no more than 1" screws so as not to cause them to extend too far and scratch your door.
Install your trim.
Having done this many times, I am sure I left out some details. Most of the actions are reactions and come naturally. Please repost any questions you have and we'll walk you through it. Maybe I gave you enough to get started.
Good luck with it, and don't be afraid to tackle it.
Install the trolleys and attach the hardware to the top of the door per the instructions on the bag, and install the door to the trolleys.
Install sheetrock to the walls, but be sure to use no more than 1" screws so as not to cause them to extend too far and scratch your door.
Install your trim.
Having done this many times, I am sure I left out some details. Most of the actions are reactions and come naturally. Please repost any questions you have and we'll walk you through it. Maybe I gave you enough to get started.
Good luck with it, and don't be afraid to tackle it.
#8
You said you have a small bathroom. You will likely use up the entire wall for a pocket door. So look at that wall first for obstacles.
You cannot have:
electrical outlets on either side of the wall,
no light switch on either side of the wall, (hall or bath)
and no wall mounted cabinets,
and to some extent, no towel racks,
no plumbing either either,
no baseboard heating vent, etc.
Most small bathrooms have something on EVERY wall.
You cannot have:
electrical outlets on either side of the wall,
no light switch on either side of the wall, (hall or bath)
and no wall mounted cabinets,
and to some extent, no towel racks,
no plumbing either either,
no baseboard heating vent, etc.
Most small bathrooms have something on EVERY wall.
#10
Now you have the good, the bad, and the ugly of it. Do you still want to tackle it? We are all here to help if you decide to do it. Just repost your needs.