Insulating weight pockets for replacements
#1
01-11-06, 09:35 AM
Insulating weight pockets for replacements
Hi guys I am replacing the 44 windows in my house built in 1901, I have already replaced the broken one which sparked the whole house replacement. My question is, is there and eisier way to insulate the the pockets along either side of the window? On the one I did already I used fibergalss after removing the weights, my windows are between 5 and 6 foot hight and found it difficult to get the insulation into the middle of the pocket, ecspecially with the limited room to shove a stick that far up. I am wondering if there is an eiser way of doing this will also making sure the whole pocket is insulated. I have thought about using expanding foam, or low expanding foam, but scare it will either expand too much, or just settle on the bottom, not to mention the the cost of doing it to 43 more windows. Thanks for any help. Jason
#2
01-11-06, 11:02 AM
Group Moderator
2 ways of doing it:
1). remove the exterior face trim of the window, remove the counterweights, and fill the space with fiberglass. (do not overstuff fiberglass, it loses its effectiveness if packed too tightly).
2). once your window is removed, drill three 1" holes in either your face trim or your window jamb. 1 hole toward the top, middle and bottom of the jamb. Then using a cellulose blower and gated nozzle, fill the cavity, shooting a little insulation in the bottom hole, then the middle hole, then the top hole. This is often a real pain in the butt if the cavities won't fill or if the hose or nozzle get plugged up. It also works best when you have 2 people to run the machine.
If there's other ways I'll be eager to hear them!
1). remove the exterior face trim of the window, remove the counterweights, and fill the space with fiberglass. (do not overstuff fiberglass, it loses its effectiveness if packed too tightly).
2). once your window is removed, drill three 1" holes in either your face trim or your window jamb. 1 hole toward the top, middle and bottom of the jamb. Then using a cellulose blower and gated nozzle, fill the cavity, shooting a little insulation in the bottom hole, then the middle hole, then the top hole. This is often a real pain in the butt if the cavities won't fill or if the hose or nozzle get plugged up. It also works best when you have 2 people to run the machine.
If there's other ways I'll be eager to hear them!
#3
01-11-06, 09:34 PM
After removing the trap door to get out the weights, and removing the pulleys, I would usually use the parting stop that you removed from between the sashes and have a piece of fiberglass cut to the right width and length. Fold over the top of the insulation once then the second time over your parting stop, this stops the trim from blowing through the fiberglass. Tuck the insulation in the pocket so it won't catch on the edge of the pocket door opening. Angle the stop outside of the window and slide the stop with the piece of insulation up the cavity. Then you can just leave the stop right there next to the fiberglass. After years of tinkering with this procedure, I found this this best way to get insulation all the way up. The parting stop has just enough flex and rigidity to do the job. With all the trim nails wanting to snag that fiberglass, this is something that takes some practice to get it right. Good Luck.
Last edited by grob62; 01-12-06 at 06:34 PM.
