Hi. I'm new to the forum. I'm looking to renovate the entire exterior of my house Roof/Siding/Windows. The company that we are thinking of using is recommending we use Quantum2 vinyl windows. (I believe that they are a high end Kensington product). I'm not very versed in windows, so if they are not Pella or Anderson, I don't really know what I'm getting in terms of quality. The quantum windows seem like a good product, and offer a lifetime warranty. But I'm reluctant to go with a product that I never heard of. Also, I'm thinking when it eventually comes time to sell our house (probably not for some time but you never know) I think the potential buyer would like to see a familiar product as well. Have any of you heard of/had a good experience with Quantum2 windows by Kensington? Am I correct in thinking I should lean toward the more well known manufacturers?

Thanks for the help. Any input would be greatly appreciated.

 

There are literally hundreds of vinyl window companies out there... maybe thousands. Hardly any of them have brand names that are recognizable nationwide, like Pella, Anderson and others. Of course, that does not mean anything.

There are many cheap-o vinyl window companies out there, and there are quite a few good ones. However, even though there are hundreds of brands, there is one feature common to all of them- the GLASS. The glass should really be 90% of your concern, because the majority of a window is glass- and most of the energy loss will be through the glass. So my advise would be... no matter what brand you decide on, get good glass! Triple pane... Low E, Low E2, argon, April fresh scent, I don't care, get them all! (sorry I got carried away there.)

I guess what I'm saying is, as long as you are happy with the way they look, with the price they quote, and you have seen the installer's work and are pleased with their quality and reputation, you have probably found a good deal. Good quality replacement windows will usually range anywhere from 600-800 per window, and can even be in the neighborhood of $1000 per, if you are getting options like grids or woodgrain.

One additional thing you could think about, if you are replacing your siding as well, and your windows will be the first thing you have done... is that you don't necessarily need replacement windows, you could go with a new construction window that is custom sized. That way the entire old frame will be removed and you can be sure that the new frame will be well insulated. It would also increase your glass area (or at least would not decrease it as much), because when you are putting a frame within a frame as you do with replacement windows, you cut down on the glass area- something a lot of people don't realize until their new windows are in and they go, "oh. I wish we had known we'd have less glass". Replacing the entire window is a little more involved, however. It would involve getting new interior window trim, but a lot of people like the idea of upgrading the trim at the same time. The outside might look unfinished (until the siding is installed) but most people don't mind that if the siding is soon to follow. Just something to think about.

 

rscam, I'm not hear to start brand bashing, but like many consumers you've been lulled by mass marketing from the 2 brands you've mentioned Anderson and Pella. Just because they're marketed heavily does not mean they're the best, many of the "other" window companies have taken what's been learned over the years and updated theior personal window design for alonger lasting better product. My company does millwork installs for Home Depot on the side and they push Anderson's, I hate them. construction is good, but areas with moving parts and seal design is dated and not as good. Both the above mentioned manf. casements/awnings/hoppers styles are fine since it's a single seal, but sliders and double hungs which are the norm use less than ideal weather seals.

I'm also not a fan matting 2 different materials together such as the advertised vinyl clad or aluminum clad. Wood, vinyl, and aluminum all have different expansion/contraction rates and it's a matter of time, and exposure before the joints in the corners will seperate/crack and allow water in literally rotting your windows from the inside out, not to metion once moisture has finally broken into the window it's trapped and now ehen it gets cold outside that moisture expands and stretches the vinyl cladding/aluminm cladding either opening up joints further or seperating them. I've been replacing Andeson windows in neighborhood north of me that are less than 6yrs old due to this fact, and neither manufacturer or builder is standing behind the product basically telling the homeowners "your on your own"...nice huh

I always push vinyl windows, R value between that and wood is very similar and if you have the money we can upgrade to foam filled frame construction and surpace that of wood properties, this way you dont have to worry about the frame being a deciding factor as it's a wash. Like X stated, you need to pay close attention to glass U factor which is glass manufacturers substitute for R value. The higher the number the better and yes get the Low-E option as well as whatever inert gas that manufacturer has to offer if in a northern/colder climate.

And for the record, I work with many realtors and do work on investment properties for them. Window brand makes NO difference. When selling a house they do not itemize everything in the home, they simply push "new maintenance free windows" or "brand new refridgerator" all the prospective consumer cares about is hearing "new" since they assume years of trouble free service. They're looking at layout of the home and how it could make their life easier, not if these "new" windows are Pella or Anderson and how much will they save me this winter in heating costs. So if this is a flip property and you know it, dont waste alot of money buying high dollar windows, like any investor they present something at face value so just make sure they look new.

 

IHI knows his stuff and I'm sure that he meant to say the LOWER the better. A window with a u-value of .25 is better than one that is .34. When looking at glass packages, you want something that is going to have a u-value somewhere in that range. I believe a clear glass IGU is about .49, depending on the size of glass, thickness of the IGU and type of spacer material. But generally speaking a low-e or triple pane IGU should be somewhere in the .25 to .34 range. You won't know the exact u-value of your windows until you actually see the sticker on them when they are installed, since that value changes based on the size of the window. At any rate, the lower the u-value the better. R-values are the reciprocal of u-values, so the higher the r-value the better.

 

LOL, oh boy, that coulda got ugly with the wrong person catching it...too much stuff going on and fingers typing too fast Thanks for the catch for furture reference when folks come across here.

FOR THE RECORD: understanding U factor and R factor; many of us can relate to the "R" factor since that's all your hear about, R factor of your wall and attic insulation, naturally the higher the R value the better. BUT when we start talking windows there is no R factor mentioned anywhere, and since windows have such a huge roll to play keeping our homes warm in the winter and cool in the summer would'nt it be nice to figure out which window has the highest R factor? At least this way you can relate to what is going on with the glass options and how that plays in to glass effeicency.

Here's the complex formula to convert U factor into R factor:

Divide 1 by the given U factor and the answer = R factor!! So now you have an idea of what your looking at on the sticker.

Example: U factor given .49 converts to an R factor of 2.04
U factor given .25 converts to an R factor of 4

Does this kinda make up for my huge mistake?? LOL!!

 

LOL... I could tell it was a case of not typing what you were thinking. happens to all of us!