need help with new construction windows


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Old 03-12-06, 04:04 PM
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need help with new construction windows

Well i bit the bullet and ordered new construction windows due to the damage and condition of the existing window jambs. The contractor i had lined up for the job has taken ill and will be unable to help me so i have decided to take on this project with the help of a few friends. my house was built in 1970 so i have the old masonite siding(crap) and a black asphalt board underlayment. After i do the windows my next project will be replacing the siding with either brick($$$$) or a hardi-board siding($$). My questions are what can i relace the blackboard siding with to be compatable with brick or hardi board?

Also what steps do i need to do to install the windows?

Do i nail the flange to the wall studs or do i fasten it to the sheathing, i need to maintain the standard 4 9/16 " jamb or do i use a plywood or osb between the nail fin and the wall stud? I have 1/2" drywall on the interior wall.

many, many thanks in advance,
Vic
 
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Old 03-12-06, 04:57 PM
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Without seeing your home and knowing your measurements it's hard to give exact advice... but in general, windows with nailing flanges always get installed on top of the sheathing, and are incorporated into the building paper that is on that surface.

I would just guess that since you have the black asphalt sheathing, you may not have building paper. IMHO, it would be a good idea to remove the siding and apply some sort of building paper to the exterior of the home as you add windows. If you won't be doing the siding "soon", that might not be desirable. If you plan on using hardiboard over your sheathing, you'll have to apply building paper sometime- hardiplank requires it. And it would be best to install the windows on top of the building paper, using flashing tapes around the perimeter of the window, then overlapping the building paper over the top nailing flange.

You will probably want to maintain a 1/4" to 1/2" gap around each side of the window so that you can have room to shim the window level and plumb, as well as to insulate around the frame.
 
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Old 03-12-06, 06:40 PM
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i forgot to say that i live in South Carolina, and the house has 2x4 stud walls , with 1/2 " blackboard, do i replace the black board with 1/2" plywood or can i use 7/16 osb?
if i replace the blackboard with osb when i start the siding project do i sheath the entire house in osb or can i use the Owens Corning foam panels or something of the like? then use the house wrap.
if i did the math correct i come up 1/8th under ( 7/16 osb , 2x4 (3.5") and 1/2 " drywall) the supposed 4 9/16" so the window jamb is protruding 1/8" to the interior .
how do i remedy this or is this not a prolbem?
can the house wrap be splice together at a later date , i mean we install it now in the area around the windows and the later add the rest and tape it together, is that possible?
 
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Old 03-12-06, 06:47 PM
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I'm not sure why you are thinking that you need to replace the black asphalt sheathing? Strictly speaking, you would not need to replace it. Your walls should currently be 4 9/16" thick, just the right size for your windows.

If you weren't going to install housewrap to the entire side of the house, you could install a small amount around your window opening (preferably 9-12" wide around the perimeter), then you could weave the paper underneath later.
 
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Old 03-13-06, 01:32 PM
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the reason for replacing the blackboard is 1 window is 108" wide and 60"tall i didn't think that kind of wieght could be supported thru blackboard. the windows are new construction vinyl (pella/ thermastar)casement . it wieghs a lot so thats why i thought the window needed to be secured to a solid surface (plywood/ osb)? thats why i asked the question about replacing the blackboard.
i don't want to come off as an ***, but that one window cost almost $1200 and i'm a lil nervous, thats why i had a contractor/ (family friend) selected but my luck is crap and he has took ill and well there are very few people i trust to be in and around my home while i'm not here not to mention no one else wants to come out to the country to install the one window without trying to rob me financially . i was quoted $400 plus materials to install the big window.
After i see or do this main job i feel i tackle the smaller ones .
 
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Old 03-13-06, 04:48 PM
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the nailing fin of the window only holds the window in the correct plane (on your sheathing). The weight of the window does not hang on the fasteners, the weight is transfered to the rough opening when you shim the bottom of the window. So you really don't need to replace any of the asphalt sheathing. The sheathing has nothing to do with supporting the weight of the window.
 
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Old 03-13-06, 06:01 PM
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ok thanks ,
that does ease my mind some.
now comes the fun part trying to get that monster in the hole.
 
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Old 03-13-06, 06:29 PM
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When installing Pella casements, I will frequenty remove the casement sashes to make the window lighter.

Then when you set it in the hole, temporarily put 4 screws in the corners of the nailing fin... put the sashes back in, and lock the windows. Then take those 4 screws out (have someone holding it to prevent it from falling out) and center it in the rough opening, check it for level and plumb, measure it from corner to corner from the inside (to ensure that it's square) and then shim it in place.
 
 

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