Hi,

I replaced my exterior door with one the exact same size and thickness. Trouble is, it's not touching the seal properly on the hinge side of the door. I had a fiar bit of trouble lining up the hinges to get the door to swing and close properly, and it was touching the seal from the top to almost the bottom, but I could see daylight from the bottom hinge down. After adjusting the door to get it to close properly without hitting the other side of the jamb, I can now see daylight at the top hinge and the bottom hinge, but not the middle! I should have gone with pre-hung, but didn't want to rip the trim off. Anyway, can you door experts shed some light on this so I don't see any light anymore

thanks

 

Amen brother! I ALWAYS talk my customers into a prehung unit instead of a slab, so i dont run into those problems.I jack up my prices so high on a slab, because of the hassles.Its hard to help without really standing there.Just had to throw my 2 cents in, good luck!

 

Dude: did you replace the weatherstripping as well when you did the door? If not, the old weatherstripping has molded to your old door, and a fresh set may help. Otherwise, take the middle hinge loose from the jamb, close the door and see where it lands naturally. That is where you need to put it. You may have it pulled too far in. You didn't mention any "daylight" from the striker side, and that is usually the largest culprit.

 

Thanks Guys. I did not replace the weather stripping. Maybe I should try that. Can't quite see how to get the old stuff off. there is no light coming through on the strike side, so I guess that's a good thing. I'll try the middle hinge trick also. Thanks!

 

Hi chandler,

so I tried taking the middle hinge off but it makes no difference to the gap, still a slight gap at the top of the hinge side and at the bottom of the hinge side. Any hints on how to remove the old weatherstripping?

thx

 

Did your new door come with mortisses for the hinges in it from the factory, or did you mortisse them out? The reason I ask is if YOU did it, you may have have not got the set back quite right compared to the old door, how it crushed the weatherstrip. If you let's say had the hinge only 1/8 inch in from the edge of the door, but the original was 1/4 inch in, then this could explain it, without having anything to do with a mishimmed jamb or anything.

Another possibility is your old door and jamb warped from top to bottom like a "U" shape and both fit each other. But now since you put in a new flat door, and the old jamb is curved.....

Or, vice-versa: New door is bowed/old jamb is true. I have run across these scenarios in my work, including with the purchase of new steel dors. I have gotten exchanges because of this. Stringline or otherwise straight edge your door jamb and your door, from top to bottom, to see.

 

The weatherstripping is most likely just held in a groove around the door frame with a barbed tang. You can pull it out with your hands, but a pair of pliers make it so much better. The new weatherstripping will just go back into the groove. If you plan on painting this or any other door, pull out the weatherstripping prior to painting. That way you have a neat job.

 

thanks for all the advice guys. I did mortise the hinges myself, but I think I got them close to the old door. Chandler you were correct, weatherstripping held into the slot by a barb. I took that out yesterday and went to 6 different stores before I found the same stuff, and I could only get the same thickness. But, it worked! The door finally seals, so the old stuff must have been compressed or warped. Whew thank goodness for that one, I had fears of getting this fixed. Thanks for all your help!

dude out

 

Why do so many people fear door and window casing? I keep reading posts about people that are hesitant to replace windows or install pre hung doors becasue they didn't want to remove the trim. IMO the trim is the easiest, most fun part of the job.

 

I wouldn't have a problem with it if I had a decent mitre saw. This compound sliding one I have now can't cut a 45 to save anything! Now...if I had splurged on a nice Dewalt 718 I wouldn't be so worried - next time

 

Here is an old trick that I wonder how many people, even young builders know about: If you want to see if something is in-plane, like to see if the door slab is as flat as a sheet of glass, or if the new building or addition you just layed out has all it's outer framed wood (or even the string-lines for that matter) level and in-plane, you X-cross string lines from corner to corner. If the strings do not touch in the middle, the square or rectangle is out of plane...it has a twist.