I want to use Marvin Integrity double hungs to replace my current windows (reasons: style and cost vs replacement).

The house is brick. Windows measure: 40 x 42 1/4 brick to brick.

Marvin has an Integrity 3840 measuring:
Masonry: 38 x 40
Rough: 38 1/2 x 40 1/4
Frame: 37 1/2 x 39 1/4

Will this work or am I in for trouble at installation time?

Thanks,
Al

 

Al,

those measurements sound great. You'll have enough room to secure the nailing fin around the perimeter of the window, then you'll have to screw on 1 1/2" wide trim to cover the nailing fin on top and bottom, and 1 1/4" wide trim to cover the nailing fin on the sides.

Once you get the old windows out, you can verify that your rough opening is close to the measurements Marvin recommends. If it's within 1/4", that's close enough. If you need to make it a bit smaller, add framing to the rough opening to make it the correct size. You might need to add more framing to the bottom of the opening, because you will want your rough opening (the framing) to be CENTERED on the brick opening (masonary). This is important if you want to be able to center the window in the R.O. so that you can insulate evenly around the perimeter and so that your trim on the exterior will be symetrical. It always looks stupid if you have 2" trim on top, 1" trim on bottom, 1 3/4" trim on the right and 3/4" trim on the left- all because you didn't think about where you were adding the framing when you resize the R.O. So for example, instead of adding 3/4" on one side, you might be better off adding 3/8" on both sides. As I mentioned, the bottom might be an exception, because old windows with sills often need a 2x4 installed on the bottom so as to give the nailing fin something to nail to.

 

XSleeper,
Thanks for the info and advice. I'll be sure to follow your tip on centering the new windows......I might have missed that one.

Any tips on what to use for trim or added framing (ie. type of wood and fasteners)?

Thank you,
Al

 

I'll use standard framing lumber for anything 3/4 to 1 1/2". Rip it on a table saw to your wall thickness (for instance, use a 2x6 for a wall 5 1/8" wide, and rip it down on a table saw if you need to alter the thickness.)

You can do the same thing for thicknesses less than 3/4" by using a 1x6 for instance, ripping it down to size. But since we have tons of plywood scraps, we always have the appropriate thickness of plywood- 1/4, 3/8, 7/16, 1/2, 5/8... and usually use that to reframe the openings instead.

Before you install a piece into the R.O. run a bead or two of sealant underneath it to stop air from sailing behind it. This can be any type of caulk or construction adhesive. And it's up to you what fasteners to use. I commonly use torx screws, but galv. nails also work fine. The length depends on the thickness of the material being fastened.

 

XSleeper,
I can't thank you enough for taking the time to help me out. With your advise I am now ready to do the job.
Thank you.
Al

 

Glad you found the advice helpful. Good luck with your project, hope it turns out just like you imagine.