Jamb Extender / Storm Door


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Old 05-23-06, 03:02 PM
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Question Jamb Extender / Storm Door

Hello,
I want to install a Storm Door. When I measured my main door , found that my jamb is only 2 inch in depth. I think I need more. So went to a lumber place to get a 2 X 2 but they had 2 X 4 , which they cut it for me. after coming home I found that its not really 2 inch wide its little less then 2 inch. Is this normal?
What is the best way to put a jamb extender? any ideas, tips or how-tos will be great. If you have pictures that will be more helpful.
also please let me know how to get it painted after extending the jamb.
Am I on right track?
Regards,
s2kfixit
 
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Old 05-23-06, 03:34 PM
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Normally, a storm door is mounted onto a piece of exterior door trim called a "brickmould". (looks like this: http://www.sundorco.com/graphics/photos/Al_sill.jpg)

Storm doors work best when the trim they are mounted to is 1 1/8" thick, which is exactly what a brickmould is. It is critical that the brickmould be installed perfectly plumb and level. It is also critical that the brickmould be installed so that you leave exactly enough room for the storm door to fit. (usually 32 x 80 1/2 or 36 x 80 1/2 on most prehung units.)

I'd suggest you install brickmould, not 2x2.
 
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Old 05-24-06, 09:31 AM
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Question

Hello xSleeper,
I have a door with two side lights. something which looks like this
http://www.wholesaledoorsource.com/w...urce098004.jpg

As you can see the two jads on the side of door and before sidelights . I have exact same but the width is only 2 inch and the storm door will not fit. The width of the frame is good enough to fit the sotrm door from top and bottom but its just the jamb which is smaller width.
What will be the best way to fit the storm door?
Regards,
S2kfixit
 
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Old 05-24-06, 04:39 PM
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You say your jamb is only 2" deep. That is enough, provided your current door knob/handle does not stick out past the face of the jamb. (your storm door handle will be mounted 42" high, so it should miss your other door knob) All you would need to add is a face trim that is 1 1/8" thick, and your storm door should fit just fine, provided you leave a 32 or 36 x 80 1/2 opening.

The mullions that separate the sidelights from the door usually are trimmed with a 1 1/2" x 1 1/8" piece of wood. The entire edge of the door is usually trimmed with brickmould. The door jamb usually has a 1/2" reveal around it (where the face trim / mullion trim starts), which provides just enough room for the storm door to sit in.

If you have a digital camera, you can post a link to pictures that you have uploaded to a file-sharing web site.
 
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Old 05-25-06, 12:31 PM
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Another option is to use brickmold stock (I used the pvc version in order to avoid the material from splitting). Instead of mounting the brickmold flat, use long screws and mount it to your jambs on the narrow side (hard to describe...sorry no pictures to send). The wider of the two narrow sides mounts to your existing jamb. The narrow faces forward and receives the framing for your storm door. Mount so that it corresponds to the recommended opening size of your new storm door.

I used both liquid nails and long screws to attach to the narrow jamb (due to your sidelights). This provided enough distance between the storm door lever and your existing door locks....this way you don't have to adjust the height of where you install the storm door handle. You'll have to paint the brickmold and I would also recommend caulking the seam where it meets your jamb (makes it look like 1 piece)
 
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Old 05-30-06, 10:31 AM
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Old 05-30-06, 03:11 PM
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Look at this picture to help you understand what to do:

http://dc8.4shared.com/download/1839...nYD0Pol8M1EJyq

There are 2 "steps" or "reliefs" in that picture. The 1st one (from the mullion to the edge of the jamb) looks to be about 7/8" or 1". The 2nd one is 1 1/8" which is the short side of your brickmould. What you need to do is make a two-piece filler.

Here is what you should do:

Get a nice 2x6x8' without a lot of big knots. Set your table saw to cut 2" wide, and cut it into 2 pieces. Then rip those 2 pieces to width so that they are just as wide as the distance from the mullion to the edge of the jamb, which I think looks like about 7/8" or 1". Cut them about 80 1/8" long, and cut a 6 degree angle on the bottom to match the slope of your aluminum sill. Sand them down so that they are nice and smooth and prime and paint all sides. Once you have done this, you'll have 2 fillers, one to nail to the left mullion, and one to nail to the right mullion.

Now instead of your jamb being 1" wide, it will be closer to 2".

Next, you need to make 2 more fillers. Get a nice 2x4x8' that does not have a lot of big knots. Set your table saw to cut 1 1/2" wide, and cut it into 2 pieces. Then rip those 2 pieces to width so that they are just as thick as the short side of the brickmould (1 1/8"). Cut them to length so that they fit snug between the top brickmould and the sill, cutting a 6 degree angle on the bottom to match the slope of the aluminum sill. The total length of these 2 pieces will be about 80 5/8". Again, sand all sides of these fillers, then prime and paint all sides.

When you nail up the left piece, hold it flush with the left side of the mullion. When you nail up the right piece, hold it flush with the right side of the mullion. Since these 2 fillers are only 1 1/2" wide (whereas your last ones were 2" wide) one they are installed, the distance between them should be 36".

Your opening would now be ready for a storm door, provided your fillers are 36" apart, and you have made them flush with the face of your brickmould.

Good luck.
 
 

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