Metal Interior Door Frame Removal
#1
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2006
Posts: 8
Upvotes: 0
Received 0 Upvotes
on
0 Posts
Metal Interior Door Frame Removal
I'm remodelling my kitchen and I'm trying to close up an existing door. The door has a metal frame and I'm tryling to remove it. I don't see an screws holding it in place. Does anyone have a suggestion on how to get rid of this frame? Thank you.
#2
There are probably some screw in there somewhere.
Remove the hinges from the frame. There is usually one screw per hinge that is real long. It attatches to the framing.
Also, if this is painted (which I'm nearly positive it is) mounting screws are usually covered with bondo then sanded and painted so you will not see the screws, but they are probably there somewhere.
IF you are getting rid of the frame, take a hammer and start tapping around to find the screws. They will have a more solid sound than the adjacent area when you hit them. Then just chip the filler out and remove the screws.
Remove the hinges from the frame. There is usually one screw per hinge that is real long. It attatches to the framing.
Also, if this is painted (which I'm nearly positive it is) mounting screws are usually covered with bondo then sanded and painted so you will not see the screws, but they are probably there somewhere.
IF you are getting rid of the frame, take a hammer and start tapping around to find the screws. They will have a more solid sound than the adjacent area when you hit them. Then just chip the filler out and remove the screws.
#3
Metal Interior Door Frame Removal
If the wall is masonry, there probably will not be any screws. Could be a masonry home or a masonry wall between the orginal living space and a garage.
Dick
Dick
#4
Originally Posted by Concretemasonry
If the wall is masonry, there probably will not be any screws. Could be a masonry home or a masonry wall between the orginal living space and a garage.
Dick
Dick
Some were grout filled after, some not.
#5
Most metal frames I install only have two screws at the top on the inside of the frame, but they are only for lateral adjustment of the frame in the opening. At the bottom, there are tabs that are screwed into the bottom plate or king stud, then sheetrocked over. In order to put in the door frame, you collapse the frame from upright to almost a "V" at the bottom, then install the header piece around the framing, and expand the legs, adjusting the screws and screwing it to the base. And as wierd as is sounds, the frames are installed prior to sheetrocking.
#6
Member
Join Date: Dec 2000
Posts: 974
Upvotes: 0
Received 0 Upvotes
on
0 Posts
A saw-zaw and a bi-metal blade.
All of the responses are true to some extent in some cases.
Chandler described the typical wood frame bottom strap anchor. An alternate is a slip-on drywall frame. Concretemasonry suggests new masonry construction, requiring either welded frames or knock down frames with masonry anchors. Nap tells of existing masonry where masonry compression anchors (type of screw) or kd frames mounted to wood or steel bucks exist. These are some of the possible ways (more exist) of anchoring metal frames.
Cut the head jamb near each corner. Cut the side jambs near each corner. Pull, rip, get it on. Saw-zaw anything other than electical wires in your way. This works 100% of the time.
All of the responses are true to some extent in some cases.
Chandler described the typical wood frame bottom strap anchor. An alternate is a slip-on drywall frame. Concretemasonry suggests new masonry construction, requiring either welded frames or knock down frames with masonry anchors. Nap tells of existing masonry where masonry compression anchors (type of screw) or kd frames mounted to wood or steel bucks exist. These are some of the possible ways (more exist) of anchoring metal frames.
Cut the head jamb near each corner. Cut the side jambs near each corner. Pull, rip, get it on. Saw-zaw anything other than electical wires in your way. This works 100% of the time.
Last edited by 2000; 07-04-06 at 04:26 PM.