Installing two windows next to each other


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Old 08-21-06, 05:45 PM
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Installing two windows next to each other

I've got some huge windows (66x72 each, three of them) and they are each currently (remodel job) separated by a 2x4.

So: Wall | window | 2x4 | window | 2x4 | window | wall

This is an older house (1960s) and they used wood windows and nailed directly into the rough opening. I'd like to use a nailing fin (w/ vinyl windows) on the windows, but didn't know if the two nailing fins where two windows meet would overlap...?

Any help is appreciated!
 
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Old 08-21-06, 07:04 PM
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If the vinyl windows will accomodate vinyl siding with built in j channel, the nailing fins can't overlap. You should beef up the dividers a little, as least by adding a 2x4 on either side of the one you have now for a total width of 4 1/2". You are asking the single 2x4 spaced out every 5 or 6 feet to support and bridge the windows for the entire length of the room. Not solid. Would you be able to use narrower windows to allow for this modification?
 
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Old 08-21-06, 07:08 PM
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Plan on adding an additional 2x4 between each window so that the nailing fins don't overlap.

If you want to trim the 3 windows seperately rather than alltoghter, sandwich the existing 2x4 with a 2x4 on each side (so that there are 3 altogether). That would give you enough room for casing around each individual window.

Figure out which way you want to go and then order your custom sized windows accordingly.

One question I would have is.... with one 2x4 between each window, what kind of a header is over these windows? Sounds to me like it would have to be 17' long to span all 3.
 
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Old 08-22-06, 06:14 AM
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hmmm...good stuff. I have no idea on the header size, i didn't tear into the drywall. Probably a good idea to add some extra support. I haven't ordered the windows yet.

With 3 2x4's isn't that going to be more than enough width for the casing? Am i going to have to patch in some drywall too? (The texture on my walls is hard to duplicate)

here is a pic of the window setup (casing has been removed)

http://img167.imageshack.us/img167/2840/dsc02187ox7.jpg

here is a pic of the support between the windows:

http://img244.imageshack.us/img244/4411/dsc02190ij5.jpg

I've got a sill on the bottom, am i going to have to cut the nailing fin off on the bottom?

Thanks for the help!
 
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Old 08-22-06, 10:23 AM
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A couple things. Your windows are so close to the ground, that your local code (if there is one) may insist that the windows have tempered glass. If your current windows are tempered, you should be able to find a little etching that says so in one of the corners of the glass.

As far as the header is concerned, you should be able to look up at the top of each 2x4... maybe pry the window a little bit to look... and see if the top board (the header) is continuous or not. Of course, if they capped the bottom of a continuous header with a 2x4, then appearances could be misleading. If your windows have an extension jamb, you could remove it to get a better look. No need to tear off the drywall.

3 2x4's would mean that there would be some drywall patching to do, but not much. Assuming you had a 1/2" of space on each side of the new window jamb, you'd have about 2" of drywall showing between your casing. My thinking was that adding a 2x4 on each side might provide trimmers for your header (if your header doesn't span the entire opening and is in sections, each of those sections would need trimmers). If the header is continuous, then you would only need to add 1 2x4 to space the nailing fins apart.

From the looks of your windows, your current windows do not have a nailing fin. If they have a sill on the bottom, it's likely that they are just nailed to the house through the brickmould. But its hard to tell without a pic of the exterior.

You don't necessarily have to trim the windows seperately, I was just mentioning that as an option... you can always use one long piece of casing across the top and bottom, then have 1/4" thick mullion caps to cover the mullions between each window. The mullion caps would mean you don't need to drywall between the windows no matter how far apart you separate them. You'll just make the mullion cap wide enough to cover.
 
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Old 08-22-06, 10:43 AM
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Yeah...i'm planning on twin single hungs then a picture window, then twin single hungs again. The picture window is going to be tempered glass, per code. The others are small enough that it is okay. The existing windows definitely aren't tempered glass.

No nailing fin (removed the brick molding last week), they are attacked with a few finish nails through the wood frames into the studs (and the brick molding was holding them in place with some framing nails through to the studs.

The question about the sill is that my sill extends out, past the window. Most of the new vinyl windows i've seen have the nailing fin on all 4 sides, indicating that i'd either have to cut the sill back or cut off the nailing fin...?

Thanks!
 
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Old 08-22-06, 10:52 AM
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Your old sill is part of your old window, and when you remove the window, the sill will come with it. You will likely have to cut the siding down another 1 1/2" or so (measuring from the bottom of the rough opening once your old windows are removed) to expose more of the sheathing so that the new windows and their nailing fins will have a place to go.

If there is some reason you can't cut 1 1/2" off the bottom of the exterior, then you will need to plan on adding a 2x4 and a strip of sheathing onto the bottom of your rough opening. Then your new windows will be 1 1/2" higher than the ones you currently have. (and you'll run into trouble with the trim not covering the drywall on bottom, unless you trim the bottom with a stool and extra wide apron).
 
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Old 08-22-06, 05:45 PM
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That's got to be a lam beam over the windows. Appears to be too long a span for such narrow dimension lumber. Thoughts?
 
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Old 08-22-06, 06:41 PM
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A lam from the 1960's? That'd be pretty far ahead of it's time, wouldn't it? I suppose they could have used a 2x12x18' header? The 2x4's in the middle would probably help support it, since 18' would be too far to span with those rafters coming down on it.
 
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Old 08-23-06, 03:28 PM
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Ooo, you're right. I wasn't thinking '60s, just what I would do now. I agree with adding the vertical support and adjusting the size of the new windows.
 
 

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