I know this may be repetative but i did do some research and couldn't find any pics or info on this. We have 1940's house and it currently has around 21 weight and pulley windows in it. I just insulated the attic and walls with blow in cellulose last fall and it did help a little but the windows are terrible. They make the blinds/curtains move. I would like replace 5 or so this summer. I know there are many to choose from, and my uncle, dad, and I would be installing them. My uncle would know a lot of these quesions but he is out of town. Question is would I have to mess w/ any of the trim on the interior or the siding(wood) on the exterior? Also how do I measure them?? Measure from track to track, or from inside trim to inside trim. Or should I have someone do the measuring. From what I understand w/ the research I did is that you take the old windows out, leave their frames, pound the pullies into the wall, use some spray foam ins. to fill those cavities, and install the new windows, which is like 4 screws?? Also if I decide to do 5 or so where should I start?? Second floor or first?? Start where the front of the house is or rear? If I start on the 1st fl., I could do all of the living room and dining room windows. If I start on the 2nd floor I could do our bedroom and our sons windows. I can upload pics if need be.

 

The old windows with weights and pulleys are the worst as far as air infiltration is concerned. In all likelihood, simply putting a new replacement window into the old frame will not completely eliminate your drafts, because a large amount of that is probably coming around the old jamb and trim.

There are several ways to insulate around the old jambs, and inside the weight cavities. The best method would probably be removing the old weights, drilling holes through the jamb, and blowing cellulose into the weight cavity with a pointed nozzle that is equipped with a shutoff gate. This is a real PITA.

Other methods would involve removing either the exterior or interior trim, cutting back either the sheathing or lathe and plaster with a reciprocating saw, then lightly packing the cavity full of fiberglass. Expanding foam could be used, but a 2" gap is a little wide to completely fill, and you must use a low expanding type of foam.

The sloped area underneath the sill can only be accessed by removing the interior trim on bottom (the apron, or bottom casing), then any lathe and plater must be cut out flush with the rough opening to expose the triangle shaped void beneath all sloped sills.

All things considered, this is a LOT of work to go to if you want to completely insulate around an old window frame. So the question arises whether it is worth all the work, and whether you should just tear out the old frame completely to start with.

When you tear out the old frame, you would be able to clean out the rough opening completely, install a new window in it, insulate around the new window, and be sure that you've done the best job possible in sealing up the rough opening around your new window. Yes, you would need new exterior and interior trim, but in many cases if you want the best installation it's worth the extra time and money to go all out rather than trying to cut a corner by leaving the old frame.

Replacement windows are popular because they are quick and easy to install. The fact remains that people are often installing them in old, drafty openings... then they wonder why they still feel the window blowing around them.

If this brings to mind any additional questions, just ask. The methods for measuring really vary depending on various factors that can't be described sight unseen.

 

So with your post, my mind is to wait until we are ready to put vinyl siding on the house!! That would be the best then correct. The ext. trim is very very tight into the siding we have and would be crazy to mess w/ that and even the interior trim would be crazy to mess with. This is what I did about a week ago and I am going to pound back in to place today. This is in our bathroom. THis is the only room we haven't painted or fixed the plaster in yet. We are going to remodel that in the fall to winter time. I wanted to see what would be involved but I didn't wanna go any farther and break the trim. http://new.photos.yahoo.com/diyplank/album/576460762390699049

I had the siding off to drill the hole for the cellulose in the fall and just reinstalled it. Looks like it was never messed with, but I did not ins. above or below the window b/c I hear it could make a huge mess inside the house. I would love to do some windows this summer but I don't think I will be able to now.
Thanks

 

It's nice when you can do the siding and windows at the same time, yes. The main benefit of doing it that way is so that you can apply nice, new building paper to the exterior of the home, remove the old windows, cutting the old sheathing and plaster back to the rough opening (which usually makes your new windows about 3" wider and taller than they currently are). You can then install a new window on top of the new building paper, seal the perimeter with a peel & stick membrane (like Grace Vycor or Tyvek Straightflash... see other posts here on installing windows with nailing flanges), which really seals the window up preventing air infiltration and leak potentials. You can then insulate around the new window (new windows should generally be ordered 1" smaller than the rough openings they will be installed in) ensuring the best seal possible. New trim inside and out finishes the installation so that everything is completely new, not shabby and 70 years old.

Its often difficult for people to do it all at once because of the expense involved. So it is also possible to install the windows first by simply cutting out some distance around the windows (6" is plenty), and installing the windows on top of narrow strips of building paper. This works well provided the siding will be installed soon thereafter, once funds become available.

Some people often choose to work on one entire side of the house at a time, doing the windows and siding on one side before starting other areas.

 

There is another option that I'm using to replace the windows in my house. Marvin makes something called a Tiltpac, which isn't a replacement window but rather a window replacement kit. It includes new sashes and metal sash tracks. It's cheaper than a replacement window and pretty easy to install. You don't need to mess with the existing window frame or siding or any of that. Marvin's website tells you what measurements to take. The only caveat is that your existing frames have to be square or pretty close.

 

I can go over the typical replacment of these type of windows using replacements, since these type of windows came prehung when they were new replacment is the same every time.
Materials- R-19 unfaced bat insulation, 100% silocone caulking
TOOLS- hammer, flat pry bar, 4" putty knife, #2 screwdrivers, caulking gun pliers, utility knife, tin/vinyl snips, approx 5' of thin rope
MEASURING-When measuring windows always go width x height. For the width measure the widest part of the inside of the frame (not the parting bead or mouldings) For the height you'll have a sill pitched towards the outside, you'll want to measure from the inside of that sill(where the bottom sash rests when closed) up to the top of the inside of the frame. The window manufacturer will automatically adjust these measurements for you to allow for adjustments. If you existing frames are very crooked you may need to subtract an extra 1/4-1/2" for extra adjustment room.
REMOVING- Start by removing the inside trim stops(the casings themselves will stay on). If you trim is painted, score the stops all the way around(this will minimize painting later).The stops are either held on with brass flathead screws or finish nails, if you have the screws removal it's pretty straight foward. If you dont see any screws, use the putty knife starting in the center of the side stops, gently start loosen(make sure you start in the center, this will shorten the bottoms so you dont break them). Once its all loose to the point you cant use the putty knife anymore go in with the flatbar, try to pry in a way that wont knick any of the mouldings. Also remove the top stop. With the both sashes all the way down cut all 4 ropes, take the inside sash out, remove the parting bead(no need to be careful with it, it wont be reused). I like to scrape any loose paint chips off the sill and outide blind stops off at this point and brush everythig outside with the puttty knife, so I have a clean work area. Next unscrew the weight wheels(dont pound them in, you could damage the frame or the screws for the new windows can hit them later). Open the trap doors for the weights, save the screw. Remove the weights, if you can throw them out the window(you dont want a rope to break while walking through your house).
PREPARING THE OPENING- Cut unfaced R-19(3 5/8") fiberglass insulation into 3 1/2" strips( I like to do this outside and carry it through the house in a garbage bag). First tear off small pieces of insulation and push it upwards through the wheel holes in the frame leaving the holes themselves clear(you may want to wear gloves if you are sensitive to fiberglass). Next thread the rope down through the wheel hole until you can pull it out of the trap door. Tie the rope to the end of a strip of insulation and gently pull the insulation up into the weight cavity. Then insulate the lower portion of the cavity. Remember fiberglass looses R value when packed tightly. Replace the trap door cover. Peel off a strip of insulation approx 3/4" to set on the sill for underneath the new window, cut to length and set aside. Now's the time to attach the expanders to the new window, different brands of windows have different methods of preparing and attaching the top and bottom expanders so you'll need to read the directions for your perticular brand. Next apply a generous bead 100% silicone to the inside of the blind stops where the window will push against it. Set your precut strip of insulation on the sill.
INSTALLATION- Set the window into the opening bottom first and let the top tilt right into place. Using the putty knife jam enough insulation to pin it into the top corners( just the top 2" or so) between the window and the opening, spacing it evenly away from the frame. Now loosley insulate the sides keeping it centered in the opening. Raise the lower sash approx 1/4" to check the spacing/squarness of the new frame. If it needs to be adjusted open the window and slide the flat bar under whichever side needs to be raised and check again(you may need to do this a few times to get it perfect). It is very important the the sash and frame are square with each other to ensure a tight weather seal and that the window functions properly. Once it's in place all you have to do is snug the 4 screws up just enought so the window wont wiggle. If the window operates to loosly or tightly, you'll want to either tighten the screws more(bowing the frame away from the sash) or put shims in (bowing it into the sash). Reinstall the moulding stops. Caulk them against the window and also against the casings (make sure it's paintable if you're going to paint or clear silicone if it's natural wood). Wait a day or so till it dries, then cut the silicone that oozed outside earlier in the process.
It's actually a pretty simple procedure, once you do one it will be easy. I can do these in about 20 minutes per window so would plan on about 1 hour per since its you've never done it before. Oh and I like to start at the furthest point from the door so after you clean each room you're not tracking any mess throught it.