Replacing old Andersen Windows
#1
03-20-07, 06:30 AM
Replacing old Andersen Windows
Hi all,
I have a home that was built in the late 60's. throughout the house I have Andersen Windows (mostly awning style.) At any rate, they need to be replaced, not just the glass, but the entire units. On the outside of the house, Andersen had this wood surround called a brick mold which the lap siding is butted up against. Since I don't want to disrupt the siding, short of having Andersen custom build these windows, does anyone have any suggestions on other options that I may consider? I plan on doing the job myself a few windows at a time. I want good quality windows, but at the same time, don't want to spend more than necessary.
Thanks for any and all suggestions.
Olifer.
I have a home that was built in the late 60's. throughout the house I have Andersen Windows (mostly awning style.) At any rate, they need to be replaced, not just the glass, but the entire units. On the outside of the house, Andersen had this wood surround called a brick mold which the lap siding is butted up against. Since I don't want to disrupt the siding, short of having Andersen custom build these windows, does anyone have any suggestions on other options that I may consider? I plan on doing the job myself a few windows at a time. I want good quality windows, but at the same time, don't want to spend more than necessary.
Thanks for any and all suggestions.
Olifer.
#2
03-20-07, 10:45 AM
Group Moderator
Most of the well-known window brands out there will offer custom sized windows, which is likely what you will need to go with if you'd like to keep your windows basically the same size and not disturb the siding around the perimeter of your existing trim. Custom sized windows usually cost a bit more but they MORE than make up for it by saving time, labor and materials during the installation.
To measure for a new window, you will measure your existing window- left side of brickmould on left to right side of brickmould on right, then subtract 4 1/4" for an exact measurement of the new window's width. Then measure from the bottom edge of the sill on bottom to the top of the brickmould on top, and subtract about 4 1/4" for an exact measurement of the new window's height. (3 3/4" if you will be reproducing a "sloped sill look" on the bottom rather than using a brickmould on bottom)
Window measurements are always expressed as width x height, not the other way around.
So if it seems like your new windows will be 47x59 (for example) go on the inside of the home and compare these measurements with your existing window trim. Ideally, a new window would be concealed behind about 5/8" of your casing on each side of the opening.
So I like to make a separate set of inside measurements (measuring off the casing) and compare them with the measurements I took on the outside of the home.
To do this, measure between the casing on each side. (Most windows are trimmed with casing that is 2 1/4" wide and this is the most standard type of trim available today). Measure from the right edge of the left casing to the left edge of the right casing, then add approximately 1 1/4" for an exact measurement of the new window's width. Then measure from the top edge of the bottom casing to the bottom edge of the top casing and add approximately 1 1/4" for an exact measurement of the new window's height.
Now you'll be able to compare the inside calculation to the outside and look for differences. If there are differences, you need to figure out why, and decide which measurement would work best. If the window is too small, you might have difficulty covering the paint lines around your old interior trim. If the window is too big, you might have difficulty getting the window to fit inside the rough opening, you won't have much room to insulate around it, and your brickmould will no longer be the standard 2" size.
Its hard to describe in print, and much easier to do in person. But you get the idea. Once you have your measurements, you'll be in a much better position to do some shopping around and compare prices.
To measure for a new window, you will measure your existing window- left side of brickmould on left to right side of brickmould on right, then subtract 4 1/4" for an exact measurement of the new window's width. Then measure from the bottom edge of the sill on bottom to the top of the brickmould on top, and subtract about 4 1/4" for an exact measurement of the new window's height. (3 3/4" if you will be reproducing a "sloped sill look" on the bottom rather than using a brickmould on bottom)
Window measurements are always expressed as width x height, not the other way around.
So if it seems like your new windows will be 47x59 (for example) go on the inside of the home and compare these measurements with your existing window trim. Ideally, a new window would be concealed behind about 5/8" of your casing on each side of the opening.
So I like to make a separate set of inside measurements (measuring off the casing) and compare them with the measurements I took on the outside of the home.
To do this, measure between the casing on each side. (Most windows are trimmed with casing that is 2 1/4" wide and this is the most standard type of trim available today). Measure from the right edge of the left casing to the left edge of the right casing, then add approximately 1 1/4" for an exact measurement of the new window's width. Then measure from the top edge of the bottom casing to the bottom edge of the top casing and add approximately 1 1/4" for an exact measurement of the new window's height.
Now you'll be able to compare the inside calculation to the outside and look for differences. If there are differences, you need to figure out why, and decide which measurement would work best. If the window is too small, you might have difficulty covering the paint lines around your old interior trim. If the window is too big, you might have difficulty getting the window to fit inside the rough opening, you won't have much room to insulate around it, and your brickmould will no longer be the standard 2" size.
Its hard to describe in print, and much easier to do in person. But you get the idea. Once you have your measurements, you'll be in a much better position to do some shopping around and compare prices.
#4
03-21-07, 05:35 AM
Member
Why are you replacing the windows? If the wood frame is in good condition, Andersen still supplies replacement sashes and hardware for old awning windows from 1952 -1975. Go to their website for information.
