Interior Closet Doors


  #1  
Old 04-10-07, 12:02 PM
B
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2006
Posts: 6
Upvotes: 0
Received 0 Upvotes on 0 Posts
Interior Closet Doors

I just had new linoleum installed and I need to re-hang two sets of sliding closet doors. However, the length of one of the doors is now too long (although some of the others oddly enough are fine). The doors are hollow core slide-by doors. Before I get started, the question I have is: assuming it's okay to shave the bottom of the door with a plane, how much can I take off the bottom without worrying about having a problem? Secondly, is it also an option to shave the top of the door instead of OR in addition to the bottom if need be?
 
  #2  
Old 04-10-07, 12:32 PM
W
Member
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: USA
Posts: 6,351
Received 60 Upvotes on 52 Posts
Closet Doors

Check the hangers where they attach to the doors. There may be some adjusting you could do without cutting the doors. Could have gotten out of adjustment when removed from the track. Good luck.
 
  #3  
Old 04-10-07, 12:43 PM
B
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2006
Posts: 6
Upvotes: 0
Received 0 Upvotes on 0 Posts
Shaving Doors - How much is too much?

Wirepuller,
Thanks for the suggestion. Unfortunately, I already looked at that since the threads to one of the hanging brackets is stripped and I have to move it to hang the door. The door is already raised as high as I can move it with the limitation being the bend in the bracket.
BJ
 
  #4  
Old 04-10-07, 04:52 PM
XSleeper's Avatar
Group Moderator
Join Date: Dec 2004
Posts: 26,407
Received 1,744 Upvotes on 1,568 Posts
If the doors are 80" tall, I would just guess that they have never been cut before. In that case, you should have about 1 1/8" of solid wood on the bottom to shave off. I'd recommend that you lay them flat, score a fairly deep line on them with a sharp knife (where you want them cut off) and then clamp a straightedge to the doors and cut them with a skilsaw, following the straightedge with the guide of the saw and keeping the teeth of the saw on the side of the knife mark that will be removed. The knife mark keeps the veneer from chipping out, so don't let the blade wander past the line or it will chip.

Removing 1/8" (or more) with a skilsaw is a lot easier than planing, because the vertical stiles don't plane well (end grain). After you've cut, you can ease the sharp edges with sandpaper.

You can probably remove at least 1/2" without worrying about cutting through the bottom plug.
 
 

Thread Tools
Search this Thread
 
Ask a Question
Question Title:
Description:
Your question will be posted in: