hinge mortises
#1
07-11-07, 03:07 PM
hinge mortises
I purchased a new louvered slab door to replace an existing door. The door was delivered with beveled edges (I requested square edges but that is another story). When making the mortises for this door should the mortises be of uniform depth or should they be deeper on unbeveled edge and thus shallower on the beveled edge as if the edge were square. I am having trouble with the door binding against the hinge jam. I made the mortises as if the edge of the door was square, i.e., not beveled.
#2
07-11-07, 07:10 PM
Group Moderator
The mortises may be of uniform depth. The hinges do not need to be exactly parallel when the door is closed.
Since you mentioned the door binds on the hinge side, I'll run through a couple things that you probably already know:
1). Edges are bevelled to facilitate proper clearance as the door swings open and shut. Obviously, then, when the door is closed, the wide side of the bevel would be toward the casing, and the narrow side of the bevel would be toward the door stop.
2). The width of the slab door should be roughly 1/4" narrower than the finished opening. This should allow you to have a 1/8" gap along each side of the jamb. If the slab door is too wide, it should be cut down to fit. Test fitting doors prior to mortising is recommended to ensure a 1/8" gap on all sides, top included. A door that is slightly too wide is going to bind somewhere.
3). Hinge plates should sit flush within their mortises. If the mortise is too deep, it would make the slab door contact the hinge jamb prematurely.
4). Occasionally the door stops will need to be removed and repositioned for the newly hung door.
Since you mentioned the door binds on the hinge side, I'll run through a couple things that you probably already know:
1). Edges are bevelled to facilitate proper clearance as the door swings open and shut. Obviously, then, when the door is closed, the wide side of the bevel would be toward the casing, and the narrow side of the bevel would be toward the door stop.
2). The width of the slab door should be roughly 1/4" narrower than the finished opening. This should allow you to have a 1/8" gap along each side of the jamb. If the slab door is too wide, it should be cut down to fit. Test fitting doors prior to mortising is recommended to ensure a 1/8" gap on all sides, top included. A door that is slightly too wide is going to bind somewhere.
3). Hinge plates should sit flush within their mortises. If the mortise is too deep, it would make the slab door contact the hinge jamb prematurely.
4). Occasionally the door stops will need to be removed and repositioned for the newly hung door.
#4
07-12-07, 10:12 AM
Group Moderator
That would either mean that the new slab door is narrower than the last one, or the mortise you made in the slab door is too deep.
#5
07-13-07, 07:59 AM
The door I replaced was a hollow core and the new is solid core so I didn't want to cheat on the mortise depth. The new door is a little narrower than the claimed 24" so that didn't help me.
Anyway thanks for your input.
Anyway thanks for your input.
