OK I just bought acustom door non returnable. They I gave them the dimentions of the rough opening they told me the label just says 82in tall as a standard but the actual door is 81 1/4 or 81/ 1/2.

It measures a 1/16 shy of 81 1/2.

Replaceing the header would be a major prodject that I am trying to avoid.

I am wondering. I know shaving the header is a huge NO NO. But can I shave a 16th off the actual prehungframe to make it fit.

thoughts , suggestions, or tricks to make it work?

 

Most all "standard" door openings RO are 82" high. The door frame is usually 81 1/2". They tell you to make the RO 82" for the obvious reason you found out the hard way. Is there a reason you made the RO less than what they recommended?
Your post says "they I gave", so I am unable to determine whether they gave you the necessary RO or you gave them the RO.
What is "it" that measures shy of 81 1/2"? The door or your RO?
Shaving 1/16" off the header won't make or break its integrity. It will be a PITA, but you can do it.

 

I never built the header it was there and it does measure a 16th shy of 81 1/2 from top to bottom Rough opening.

I gave the store these exact dimentions they said dont worry about it

Looks like I will be shaving a 16 of an in off to make this work rebuilding the header is out because some new cabinets that are very close and would need to be removed in rder to rip the drywall out.


Thanks for the reply : )

 

You did not say whether the door was just a slab or prehung ( with the frame)
You also did not say what the door was made of ( wood ,steel or fiberglass)

Regardless, Wood doors can be cut down ( typically by up 1 1/2) best from the bottom and some steel and fiberglass doors have wood styles, headers and sills that are slightly exposed. If so, and you have access to a hand planer ( at worst rent 1 for 1/2 day) cutting the door down only takes a couple of minutes.

If it is a prehung door, you could easily remove the header and plane it down
in a table saw or at a mill work shop (on the back side) and then reattach it

Either way its a lot better than trying to shave the r/o header

 

its a pre hung fiberglass door from menards with a wood Jam and frame



Pics are here

the door http://lanzafame.org/images/sam/door.jpg

The header measurement http://lanzafame.org/images/sam/header.jpg measures just shy 81 1/2

the prehung measurement http://lanzafame.org/images/sam/frame.jpg
measures just a hair more than 81 1/2

Ideal if I can buy myself an 1/8 in or min 1/16. the opening is square so at least thats in my favor

 

Nice door and a simple fix regardless of what you have to do.



Take the door out of its frame leave the hinges, just take out the pins.

First, Remove the Header casing that is attached ( stapled) on the header
jamb. Using a small prybar and hammer is is realitvly easy to diassemble the casing. Be sure to work from the back of the casing so you dont damage the front. There are staple in the front bottom of the jamb and there are probably staples in the corners to keep them alligned. Just be careful not to split the wood

Next, Remove the header jamb from the side styles ( again they will be stapled from the side) A light tap on the latch side casing should be enough to get them slightly separated but the process is the same as above.

Remove the staple to avoid injury, and as I said before either "plane" (shave) the header jamb piece down, in a table saw or at a mill work shop ( advice: material should only be on the back side of the Jamb) and then reattach it to the side styles. You should be able to remove up to 1/4" without negatively impacting the integrety if the door system. Give yourself a good 1/4. You'll be glad you did.

Re-assemble the parts, install the jamb, secure the hinge side, hang the door,
shim & secure the header and latch side.

My work is done, good luck

Then you can reattach the casing to the jamb header and then you can either
install the jamb with or without the door. I would recommend that you set the jamb in place without the door ( its a lot lighter and easier to handle)
secure the hinge side ( plumb & square) and then re-attach the door ( put the pins back in) and then shim and secure the entire prhung assembly following the directions.

 

Fist off thank you for taking the time to explain everything to me in such a clear manner. : )

I see how I can disassemble it as you said. I am going to try it tomorrow. Im going to Oysterfest whooooohooooo

I'll let you know how it worked out.

 

Just a thought. I would definitely not disassemble the door frame without first chiseling down the header. It would be too easy a fix without having to take a chance of messing up such a nice door unit. And it is a unit until you take it apart. It becomes pieces after that.

 

Took me 4 hours as it was my first door install

I ended up dis assembling the prehung frame and shaving 1/8 in off and it fit like a glove. leveled out nice and even closes perfect.

Thank you all for helping me and taking the time to read my post!!!!



Now I just need to stain or paint it!