From 2x4 framing to 2x3 framing on a door
#1
12-04-07, 11:49 PM
From 2x4 framing to 2x3 framing on a door
I am remodeling my kitchen and wish to move my door to a different location. However, the current door frame is made up of 2x4 framing the location I want to move the door to is made up of 2x3 framing. Looking at all door jambs, they are 4 1/2" wide.
I am at a loss as to how to go about framing up the new location of my door. Please send any helpful hints. This is my first door and framing attempt ever.
thanks in advance
I am at a loss as to how to go about framing up the new location of my door. Please send any helpful hints. This is my first door and framing attempt ever.
thanks in advance
#2
12-05-07, 03:30 AM
The normal wall thickness, including sheetrock is 4 1/2", so the normal door jamb width is 4 9/16". Exactly how wide is the wall frame including wall covering? Generally what we do with narrower walls is dismantle the door frame completely and run the rail and stile through a table saw to reduce it to the size we need, then reassemble it. Now, if you have a two piece door casing, it should take up this difference a little, maybe not as much as you need.
#3
12-05-07, 10:09 AM
The wall thickness I am dealing with is 3 1/2 with drywall and I do not have a table saw.
Are there any other options?
Should I frame the door with 2x4s and then try to cover the 2x4 with the door trimming?
Do they make doors to fit 2x3 framing?
So many questions...
Thanks for the input please send more.
Are there any other options?
Should I frame the door with 2x4s and then try to cover the 2x4 with the door trimming?
Do they make doors to fit 2x3 framing?
So many questions...
Thanks for the input please send more.
#4
12-05-07, 10:23 AM
Group Moderator
If you can't cut the door jamb down to the correct wall thickness, as Chandler mentioned, then your only option would be to center your door on the 2x3 wall and then cover the difference up with your casing (trim).
This could be done by centering the door on the wall so that it sticks out 1/2" beyond the wall on each side, then attaching a 1/2" filler onto the back side of the casing on each side of the door.
Or, if you have flat trim, shimming the trim out that 1/2" and then covering those shims with backbanding or a screen moulding would be acceptable. Just depends on how "perfect" you want it to look.
This could be done by centering the door on the wall so that it sticks out 1/2" beyond the wall on each side, then attaching a 1/2" filler onto the back side of the casing on each side of the door.
Or, if you have flat trim, shimming the trim out that 1/2" and then covering those shims with backbanding or a screen moulding would be acceptable. Just depends on how "perfect" you want it to look.
